Thanks!!
What Have You Done To/With Your Pre-T Ford This Year?
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Jerry VanOoteghem
Topic author - Posts: 4242
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- First Name: Jerry
- Last Name: Van
- Location: S.E. Michigan
What Have You Done To/With Your Pre-T Ford This Year?
Along the lines of the similar topic in the "T" area of the forum, share what you've done with your A,B,C,F,K,N,R,S,SR Ford this year. Personally, I have done nothing,
, so let's depend on you all to contribute!
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
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paul schaefer
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2019 12:44 pm
- First Name: Paul
- Last Name: Schaefer
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1908 S roadster, 1914 Touring,1925 touring, 1926 Truck, 1926 roadster PU, 1926 Coup
- Location: Valley City OH
- Board Member Since: 2019
Re: What Have You Done To/With Your Pre-T Ford This Year?
Been working on my model F. Had the front connecting rod rebabbited and now reassembling everything for a test run. Waiting for model S engine from rebuilder who is fitting a new crankshaft. Hope to have both in Minnesota this summer.
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Rob
- Posts: 1553
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- First Name: Rob
- Last Name: Heyen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Models B, F, K, N, Ford racer and 3 Model T
- Location: Eastern Nebraska
Re: What Have You Done To/With Your Pre-T Ford This Year?
Been driving the 07 K daily, getting ready for the ABC tour in Pennsylvania in a week and a half.
Just back from town this morning.
Just back from town this morning.
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TrentB
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- Last Name: Boggess
- Location: New Hampshire
Re: What Have You Done To/With Your Pre-T Ford This Year?
I have been working on the connecting rods for the Model S Roadster. I am using Model T aluminum pistons, so the piston pin is clamped in the rod’s top, like a Model T.
The threads at the top of the rod are standard 3/8x24, so the original bolts that adjusted the clearance in the piston pin bushing can be replaced with sturdier Model T pin clamping bolts. When the pin is clamped into the rods, the bolt can be locked into the rod with a cotter pin, again like a Model T.
The original big end rod bearing caps were held in place and adjusted with a single bolt. The bolt’s thread is not conventional, instead it is 3/8x20. The nuts were originally split nuts that were locked in place by smashing the nut’s flap flat with a hammer and punch, to crimping the nut on to the bolt. For good measure (or maybe just to keep the nut from falling off the bolt if it became loose), Ford drilled the end of the bolt for a cotter pin. Rather than use the original style nut, I made new castle nuts threaded 3/8x20 and tall enough that they can be captured by a cotter, again similar to Model T rod nuts.
Finally, the rods and pistons were balanced so they all weighed the same. They are now ready to be assembled into the cylinder jugs and the jugs bolted to the crankcase.
The photo shows a rod with the new bolt and nut:
The threads at the top of the rod are standard 3/8x24, so the original bolts that adjusted the clearance in the piston pin bushing can be replaced with sturdier Model T pin clamping bolts. When the pin is clamped into the rods, the bolt can be locked into the rod with a cotter pin, again like a Model T.
The original big end rod bearing caps were held in place and adjusted with a single bolt. The bolt’s thread is not conventional, instead it is 3/8x20. The nuts were originally split nuts that were locked in place by smashing the nut’s flap flat with a hammer and punch, to crimping the nut on to the bolt. For good measure (or maybe just to keep the nut from falling off the bolt if it became loose), Ford drilled the end of the bolt for a cotter pin. Rather than use the original style nut, I made new castle nuts threaded 3/8x20 and tall enough that they can be captured by a cotter, again similar to Model T rod nuts.
Finally, the rods and pistons were balanced so they all weighed the same. They are now ready to be assembled into the cylinder jugs and the jugs bolted to the crankcase.
The photo shows a rod with the new bolt and nut:
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Jerry VanOoteghem
Topic author - Posts: 4242
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:06 pm
- First Name: Jerry
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Re: What Have You Done To/With Your Pre-T Ford This Year?
Very nice work!
I know you must have checked this, but I'm hoping that the extended nut will clear the crankcase and camshaft.
In my case, the wristpin floats within the piston & rod, (Model T pistons also). It has aluminum caps in the ends to prevent rubbing on the cylinder walls. I was a bit dubious about the arrangement, but was assured by the rebuilder, who had a lifetime on brass era engine rebuilding under his belt, that it would be fine. So far, it has been.
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mbowen
- Posts: 440
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- First Name: Miles
- Last Name: Bowen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 Express Wagon, 1924 Touring
- Location: Brighton, MI
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Re: What Have You Done To/With Your Pre-T Ford This Year?
Jerry, my airplane engine, designed in the 1940’s, in production well into the 1960’s, and replacement cylinders and pistons still in production, has floating wrist pins with aluminum plugs in the pistons to keep the pins off the cylinder walls. If I’m not mistaken, that’s still common practice for most aircraft piston engines still today.Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑Fri May 09, 2025 10:25 amIn my case, the wristpin floats within the piston & rod, (Model T pistons also). It has aluminum caps in the ends to prevent rubbing on the cylinder walls. I was a bit dubious about the arrangement, but was assured by the rebuilder, who had a lifetime on brass era engine rebuilding under his belt, that it would be fine. So far, it has been.
Miles
1924 Touring “Bonnie”
1925 Express Wagon “Clyde”
1924 Touring “Bonnie”
1925 Express Wagon “Clyde”
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Jerry VanOoteghem
Topic author - Posts: 4242
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Re: What Have You Done To/With Your Pre-T Ford This Year?
Thanks Miles! If it's good enough for aviation...mbowen wrote: ↑Sat May 10, 2025 7:33 pmJerry, my airplane engine, designed in the 1940’s, in production well into the 1960’s, and replacement cylinders and pistons still in production, has floating wrist pins with aluminum plugs in the pistons to keep the pins off the cylinder walls. If I’m not mistaken, that’s still common practice for most aircraft piston engines still today.Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑Fri May 09, 2025 10:25 amIn my case, the wristpin floats within the piston & rod, (Model T pistons also). It has aluminum caps in the ends to prevent rubbing on the cylinder walls. I was a bit dubious about the arrangement, but was assured by the rebuilder, who had a lifetime on brass era engine rebuilding under his belt, that it would be fine. So far, it has been.
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Rob
- Posts: 1553
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- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Models B, F, K, N, Ford racer and 3 Model T
- Location: Eastern Nebraska
Re: What Have You Done To/With Your Pre-T Ford This Year?
Had the B, F, N and K out for the local Model T club visit last weekend. Thank you Jeff Fries for helping getting them out and somewhat shined up.
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Robert Kiefaber
- Posts: 101
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- Last Name: Kiefaber
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1906 model F, 1907 model R, 1915 centerdoor sedan, 1921 centerdoor sedan
- Location: Indiana
Re: What Have You Done To/With Your Pre-T Ford This Year?
Made a vanity license plate for my model F.
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Jerry VanOoteghem
Topic author - Posts: 4242
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:06 pm
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- Last Name: Van
- Location: S.E. Michigan
Re: What Have You Done To/With Your Pre-T Ford This Year?
Bob,Robert Kiefaber wrote: ↑Tue May 13, 2025 12:24 amMade a vanity license plate for my model F.
IMG_2189.jpeg
I like that F! Thanks for posting!