Wheels for sale

[G.ARMS86]

A bunch of wheels for sale. All need hubs most are in ok shape. Asking $25 each plus shipping or local pickup. Please call or text only George 2036873827

[Ken Buhler]

George, those look as good as a car going by in a parade. What you are showing is a bunch of rims of unknown condition. Shipping tires and spokes is a total loss. I have recently processed about 200 wheels and separated each and every useable piece. About 25% of any group has unusable parts. If you post detailed closeup photos of the edge that holds or eats the tire, the potential buyer could make an informed decision. I would not pursue your listing.
Respectfully, Ken Buhler

[Wayne Sheldon]

Are most of those non-demountable wheels? If so, I sure wish you/they were a lot closer to me. I would want the wood as well as a few rims, but cannot justify the cost of shipping for me.

[G.ARMS86]

Are most of those non-demountable wheels? If so, I sure wish you/they were a lot closer to me. I would want the wood as well as a few rims, but cannot justify the cost of shipping for me.

lf you are going to ocf or Hershey I can get them to either place for you

[Karl Von Neumann]

Are most of those non-demountable wheels? If so, I sure wish you/they were a lot closer to me. I would want the wood as well as a few rims, but cannot justify the cost of shipping for me.

Shipping rims is easy and cheap they go cross county for about 20 to 45 $

[G.ARMS86]

Are most of those non-demountable wheels? If so, I sure wish you/they were a lot closer to me. I would want the wood as well as a few rims, but cannot justify the cost of shipping for me.

Yes they are and if you are interested in more than 1 or 2 I’d work with you on the price

[Wayne Sheldon]

Thank you all for the comments. But I just can't be spending for parts I don't really need. All my current projects have good wheels, plus a few extras. I have a couple projects I won't live long enough to get to that I would like to get wheels for, but I cannot justify the cost at this time.

It hurts me to see so many people trashing good original wood. I have restored so many old wood wheels over the years and had such good results from proper refitting of good original wood that I can't help but like them. Of course, if one can afford it, any of several true wheelwrights across the country do a wonderful job of properly rebuilding wooden spoke wheels, and those do give people a sense of security that old wood doesn't for most people.

[James]

How many are matching sizes? Also, how would we calculate shipping costs?

[G.ARMS86]

How many are matching sizes? Also, how would we calculate shipping costs?

Not sure if you are looking for a certain size please text me the info and I can figure out what I have and then I can try to figure out ups shipping

[Wayne Sheldon]

Purely by eye, NOT exactly accurate or trustworthy, I see several that "appear" to be 30 X 3 which would be front wheels for US built non-demountable wheels.
The 30 X 3 is a 24 inch rim size, measured diameter where the tire bead sits on the rim itself. This is inside the clincher rim, and easy enough to measure on either the tire or the rim. Measuring the rim does involve some allowances for the thickness of the steel rim or the clincher (rolled over) rim/bead. Not precise, but close enough, the full diameter of the rim INCLUDING the clincher bead is about 25 inches (the clincher bead rolled over is "about" a half inch twice added to the actual 24 inch diameter for the tire size.

There do appear to be a few 30 X 3 1/2 wheels, which could be US built T rear wheels or Canadian built rears or fronts.
The 30 X 3 1/2 is one inch smaller than the 30 X 3. So the 30 X 3 1/2 is 23 inch actual tire and rim size where the tire bead meets the rim. And in turn about 24 inch outside measure of the rim and the rolled over clincher rim/bead.

Simple enough?

[G.ARMS86]

Purely by eye, NOT exactly accurate or trustworthy, I see several that "appear" to be 30 X 3 which would be front wheels for US built non-demountable wheels.
The 30 X 3 is a 24 inch rim size, measured diameter where the tire bead sits on the rim itself. This is inside the clincher rim, and easy enough to measure on either the tire or the rim. Measuring the rim does involve some allowances for the thickness of the steel rim or the clincher (rolled over) rim/bead. Not precise, but close enough, the full diameter of the rim INCLUDING the clincher bead is about 25 inches (the clincher bead rolled over is "about" a half inch twice added to the actual 24 inch diameter for the tire size.

There do appear to be a few 30 X 3 1/2 wheels, which could be US built T rear wheels or Canadian built rears or fronts.
The 30 X 3 1/2 is one inch smaller than the 30 X 3. So the 30 X 3 1/2 is 23 inch actual tire and rim size where the tire bead meets the rim. And in turn about 24 inch outside measure of the rim and the rolled over clincher rim/bead.

Simple enough?

Simple enough I’ll check tomorrow

[James]

Purely by eye, NOT exactly accurate or trustworthy, I see several that "appear" to be 30 X 3 which would be front wheels for US built non-demountable wheels.
The 30 X 3 is a 24 inch rim size, measured diameter where the tire bead sits on the rim itself. This is inside the clincher rim, and easy enough to measure on either the tire or the rim. Measuring the rim does involve some allowances for the thickness of the steel rim or the clincher (rolled over) rim/bead. Not precise, but close enough, the full diameter of the rim INCLUDING the clincher bead is about 25 inches (the clincher bead rolled over is "about" a half inch twice added to the actual 24 inch diameter for the tire size.

There do appear to be a few 30 X 3 1/2 wheels, which could be US built T rear wheels or Canadian built rears or fronts.
The 30 X 3 1/2 is one inch smaller than the 30 X 3. So the 30 X 3 1/2 is 23 inch actual tire and rim size where the tire bead meets the rim. And in turn about 24 inch outside measure of the rim and the rolled over clincher rim/bead.

Simple enough?

Ugh, for someone starting out in this, no. Figuring out wheel sizes, and what they mean has been the hardest part of the process for me. I need all 4, since this thing I have doesn't have any. I am taking notes of all these discussions though!!
One thing I'm really not sure of is what demountable means. I've found places to buy tires, but does non-demountable mean it's some kind of special tire? I've been a mechanic my whole life and don't remember ever hearing those terms.

[Wayne Sheldon]

James,
Wheels for model Ts can be confusing. They changed in small ways often, and there were about ten significantly different variations from the factory over the nearly eighteen years of model T production. Then consider dozens of after-market offerings.
"Demountable" is easy enough. It is short for "demountable rim", or "demountable wheel", meaning the entire wheel or the rim with the tire on it is designed to to be removable from the wheel. In our modern day, "rim" and "wheel" essentially mean the same thing. However, originally, they were two distinctly different parts of the same whole.
In earlier days of the automobile, most cars had non-demountable rim wheels of one sort or another. Ford may have carried the idea longer than almost anyone else, but they were by no means the only ones during the 1910s.
Ford began offering demountable rim wheels on the model T in 1919. They were standard equipment on sedans and coupes, optional equipment on runabouts, trucks (about a year later), and touring cars until the end of model T production. For wooden spoke wheels, the non-clincher straight sided lower pressure "balloon" tires on 21 inch "split rims" became available as an option for 1925 models and later. Welded wire spoke wheels were offered as an additional option for 1926 and 1927.

The most common wheels on model Ts originally, are the 30 X 3 1/2 demountable clincher rim wheels first offered by Ford for 1919, and continued as an open car option clear through to the end of production. While the general idea and similar design was used for nine years? Some, mostly earlier USA built cars as well as some Canadian production for several years, had loose lugs to hold the rim onto the wheel. Those can be found often, however, except for Canadian built Ts, are rarely seen as full sets or on restored Ts. The demountable rim wheels with four fixed lugs on each rim are much more commonly seen and used. They, however, were manufactured by four different suppliers, and mixing rims onto wheels by a different supplier is not a good idea. The wheel felloes, rims, and fixed lugs vary enough that differing manufacturer wheels and rims simply do not fit well together.

Is this project the truck conversion mentioned in your profile? A conversion might create another set of variables into the mix.

Regardless, the first thing you need to do is determine which sort of wheels you want to have for your T. Then you can determine which variation you may want to pursue. Once those decisions are made, you can begin to collect the right parts to fit together.

Maybe share some photos of you project in the general discussion area of the forum seeking advice for which wheels would be best for your project.

Perhaps Admin can move your question and my answer to the general discussion where it belongs?

And hopefully someone that can use George A's nice looking non-demountable wheels will hurry up and buy them so that they do not torture me anymore.

[James]

Thanks, Wayne, for the explanation.