'21 Runabout Weather Flap

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I have a new top kit on order with Classtique for my '21. The correct orientation and design of the weather flap, (bewteen the front bow and the windshield frame), has been a topic many times. If I recall, lots of opinions, advice and theories were the result. Can anyone post a photo of a known, original weather flap for a '21 Runabout? I suppose a Touring top would be the same, and I further suppose a slightly earlier year top would also be the same.

Thanks!!!

[Wayne Sheldon]

Sorry Jerry VO, I sure can't help with that. After all the various threads I have read on this subject over the past ten plus years, like you, all I ever really saw was a bunch of speculation and unfounded opinions. I suspect that there may have been several variations adding to the confusion.
The best thing I got out of those discussions is that I am glad my 1915 isn't supposed to have that weather flap, so I don't need to worry about how it should be.
However, I know you want your 1921 to be right! And that is a good thing.

[George House]

...sorry Jerry; its neither an original weather flap or a 1921 runabout - but it is a Classitique top. Elizabeth builds these with material folded under and sewn. I’ve found that at speeds the flap blows back behind the top windshield. But its easily remedied by inserting a 1/4” or 5/16” cold rolled metal length into the flap for weight

[Will_Vanderburg]

Mine, also wrapped around the front bow, neither a roadster or a 21, but the flap is designed as a V that goes in front of and behind the top glass frame, with a slot for the windshield wiper arm to fit into.

[George House]

...and here’s the passenger side ( right side to you, Allan ) of the weather flap. Will, I don’t understand what you meant the weather flap “goes in front of and behind the top glass frame.” If it positioned behind the top windshield that would let the rain in..??

[Oldav8tor]

Jerry,
This may not help much,but on my '17 touring we added a piece across the underside of the front bow, with the rear edge extending just a little ways behind the windshield frame. Another strip was sewn to that piece at a right angle so it lay vertically in front of the windshield frame. (A)

It made an effective seal if you didn't go too fast, at which point it started to lift. I corrected that by installing a single twist fastener to the top of the windshield frame in the center and the receptacle in the piece which lay flat atop the frame. (B) Stays put regardless of speed.

(A)

(B)

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Thanks all! These techniques are the same as, or similar to, the top currently on the car. Seeing how the new top is likely to be made is a big help, thanks George!

Tim,

I like your fastener idea! I know it would have helped on the old top. We'll see how the new one behaves...

[Oldav8tor]

Jerry, the twist fastener does help. It only takes the one to keep the flap from lifting. I attached it to the windshield tube using a couple of small aircraft pop rivets. If you need a couple of rivets let me know - I have a bunch.

[George House]

Yes thats an excellent idea Jerry. Mind if I steal it ? My ‘14 top windshield invariably collapses to the rear anytime I either drive into a strong wind or heavy traffic passes by on my left. And I’ve cranked those windshield hinge screws down as much as possible. I’ll bet that fastener as you’ve fitted would stop top windshield movement.

[Erik Johnson]

If the top material is installed properly so the bottom of front of the first bow is on the same plane as the nickel trim on the windshield, the factory storm flap, windbreaker or whatever you want to call it which is installed across the bottom of the first bow, will remain in place across the top of the windshield and not require various "Mickey Mouse" remedies.

The problem is too many two-man tops are not installed correctly and subsequently the first bow sits high above the windshield instead of hanging slightly over the windshield as described above.

If you look at the Murray Fahnestock touring top drawing, which according to the RV Anderson has the same specs as the factory drawing, there is a measurement from the bottom of the windshield to the bottom of the first bow. If you take this measurement and apply it to your car, you will know the correct position of the first bow. If you also look at surviving cars with original factory tops, such as the 1917 Rip Van Winkle Ford, and period photos, you will see that the first bow should slightly hang over the front of the windshield.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Yes thats an excellent idea Jerry. Mind if I steal it ? My ‘14 top windshield invariably collapses to the rear anytime I either drive into a strong wind or heavy traffic passes by on my left. And I’ve cranked those windshield hinge screws down as much as possible. I’ll bet that fastener as you’ve fitted would stop top windshield movement.

George,

It would be Tim's idea that you're "stealing". I don't think he'll mind.

Maybe some stronger springs are needed in the hinges???

[got10carz]

Jerry,this is my 23, done at Classtique in about 1974. I feel it works well. I've driven in downpours.