Correct timer/throttle linkage dimensions?
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Topic author - Posts: 4729
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- First Name: john
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Correct timer/throttle linkage dimensions?
Could use clarification/confirmation on the "correct" Ford dimensions for the spark, timer rods & lever holes.
Digging out a bunch of parts has added to my confusion.
NOS throttle lever arms & replacement carb levers are around .235" dia holes. Dont have a new spark rod lever.
NOS & repop spark & throttle rods are .214-.218, .218" dia. (a bit sloppy fit?)
I found one spark rod that looks NOS .250" dia. Fooled, Ford oversized or old repop?
Typical timers .250" hole(that makes for a lot of slop with a .218" rod)
I have been bushing new days to tighten them up.
Are the correct dimensions, as I suspect @ .218 on both rods, .235 for all lever holes?.
Thanks in advance.
Digging out a bunch of parts has added to my confusion.
NOS throttle lever arms & replacement carb levers are around .235" dia holes. Dont have a new spark rod lever.
NOS & repop spark & throttle rods are .214-.218, .218" dia. (a bit sloppy fit?)
I found one spark rod that looks NOS .250" dia. Fooled, Ford oversized or old repop?
Typical timers .250" hole(that makes for a lot of slop with a .218" rod)
I have been bushing new days to tighten them up.
Are the correct dimensions, as I suspect @ .218 on both rods, .235 for all lever holes?.
Thanks in advance.
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Re: Correct timer/throttle linkage dimensions?
My personal opinion is .218" on the rods, and 7/32" holes for the connections. 7/32" is .21875. The rods should be a close fit in the holes.
If you have holes of .235" or .250", you should ream and rebush them. Alternatively, if you have a lathe,, I would still ream them, and make my own press fit bushings to install, to bring the holes back to .218"
Linkages on Model T's should be free in movement, but NOT sloppy. They have worn to be sloppy over the years, and owners have adjusted to the peculiarities this generates. but this is not a good thing. Levers can also be welded up if they are so far oversized that they will not have a decent wall thickness when reamed and bushed. (This may also be done if they were originally drilled off center, which I have seen a LOT of.)
The loads on linkage arms are all sufficiently low that you can disregard the metallurgy after welding. Weld them up, smooth them off, drill a new .218" diameter hole, or drill slightly smaller and ream to .218, and you will have a happy linkage system.
If the control rods are worn, go and get some .218" diameter rod, and form new linkage rods. It is not that hard, especially if you have an old one as a pattern.
You will find a great improvement in operation and control if you go through your linkage systems and bring them back to new.
If you have holes of .235" or .250", you should ream and rebush them. Alternatively, if you have a lathe,, I would still ream them, and make my own press fit bushings to install, to bring the holes back to .218"
Linkages on Model T's should be free in movement, but NOT sloppy. They have worn to be sloppy over the years, and owners have adjusted to the peculiarities this generates. but this is not a good thing. Levers can also be welded up if they are so far oversized that they will not have a decent wall thickness when reamed and bushed. (This may also be done if they were originally drilled off center, which I have seen a LOT of.)
The loads on linkage arms are all sufficiently low that you can disregard the metallurgy after welding. Weld them up, smooth them off, drill a new .218" diameter hole, or drill slightly smaller and ream to .218, and you will have a happy linkage system.
If the control rods are worn, go and get some .218" diameter rod, and form new linkage rods. It is not that hard, especially if you have an old one as a pattern.
You will find a great improvement in operation and control if you go through your linkage systems and bring them back to new.
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Re: Correct timer/throttle linkage dimensions?
This is a job which I've wrestled with a few times.
Not being a smart-ass, but where does one find .218 or 5.5mm mild steel rod?
I can find it in stainless and tool steel, but I am unable to source such a thing in mild steel.
Not being a smart-ass, but where does one find .218 or 5.5mm mild steel rod?
I can find it in stainless and tool steel, but I am unable to source such a thing in mild steel.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Topic author - Posts: 4729
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Re: Correct timer/throttle linkage dimensions?
I have been using 7/32, .2188" 3' lengths. drill rod. Unhardened. Bends easy In an aluminum jawed vise, hammer tapped for the sharp 90's & around a pipe for timer end radius.Scott_Conger wrote: ↑Sun Oct 31, 2021 2:07 pmThis is a job which I've wrestled with a few times.
Not being a smart-ass, but where does one find .218 or 5.5mm mild steel rod?
I can find it in stainless and tool steel, but I am unable to source such a thing in mild steel.
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- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
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Re: Correct timer/throttle linkage dimensions?
Thank you John
other than stainless, that's all I've found...I'm just adverse to fabricating with it unless it's something that needs to be hardened...you have confirmed my suspicion that my failure to find it in mild steel is not for want of trying.
it's interesting the things which were common at one time that have fallen out of use over the years...various (nearly) obsolete threads are a common item in this theme...
other than stainless, that's all I've found...I'm just adverse to fabricating with it unless it's something that needs to be hardened...you have confirmed my suspicion that my failure to find it in mild steel is not for want of trying.
it's interesting the things which were common at one time that have fallen out of use over the years...various (nearly) obsolete threads are a common item in this theme...
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
-
Topic author - Posts: 4729
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
- First Name: john
- Last Name: karvaly
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
- Board Member Since: 2020
Re: Correct timer/throttle linkage dimensions?
Fractional rod in 1/32" increments is gone. I cant find it either. Why stock it when drill rod is available?. I am glad there is still this option.Scott_Conger wrote: ↑Sun Oct 31, 2021 4:21 pmThank you John
other than stainless, that's all I've found...I'm just adverse to fabricating with it unless it's something that needs to be hardened...you have confirmed my suspicion that my failure to find it in mild steel is not for want of trying.
it's interesting the things which were common at one time that have fallen out of use over the years...various (nearly) obsolete threads are a common item in this theme...
My first job, at 15, was in an old family hardware store. I have seen, first hand, the rapid decline of all the neat/correct hardware I used to get in a short walk coinciding with the rise in computer inventory control @ the more modern stores. Saw it coming early on first hand. Its all about the "turns"(inventory) Now that every single screw has a SKU#, only high volume stuff will be on hand. Happy for McMaster Carr. Even they offer less today.
Slotted/pre-war hardware is disappearing fast. Nothing @ Home Depot.(98% of my needs)
Phillips on prewar vehicles drives me insane. Seeing them on a model T worst. Knackered screw heads irritate me. My eyes will spot em all, like a where's Waldo expert.
Another personal flaw?!
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- Posts: 6523
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
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Re: Correct timer/throttle linkage dimensions?
John, your observations and sentiments are mine too!
For a refreshing change to this, I contacted WL FULLER last week about ordering some very specialized screwdriver blades off of their website of which none of their retailers carried. I spoke to L. Fuller, a 4th generation descendant, who was happy to sell me what I needed. I remarked about how happy I was to hear that the family still maintained ownership, when she told me that her son, had started working there too...5th generation employee.
Now that's something!
For a refreshing change to this, I contacted WL FULLER last week about ordering some very specialized screwdriver blades off of their website of which none of their retailers carried. I spoke to L. Fuller, a 4th generation descendant, who was happy to sell me what I needed. I remarked about how happy I was to hear that the family still maintained ownership, when she told me that her son, had started working there too...5th generation employee.
Now that's something!
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured