Need engine opinions

[Gen3AntiqueAuto]

As you all know, I'm working on another video series on a 17 T engine. It was given to me by my grandfather who is now gone so it's got a little "value" to it. He told me that it was "a really good one", I think he may have been confused because apparently he never opened it to see the inside.

I sat on it for a decade or more and recently decided to rebuild it with the original goal of "clean it up and run it" on camera, and to give something to the hobby in the future. Digging into it has been "interesting" to say the least. I can't just throw it back together like this and expect to it to run, it's turned into a restoration now. What I am wondering is "what would you do?" at this point in time. I have found two pairs of rods and pistons as you saw - that don't match.

So I don't spoil the next video (Monday 5pm) - I will leave this with two questions:

1. What would you do about the mis-matched pistons - replace with Cast Iron that matches, or replace with aluminum?
2. Should I leave the original flywheel/mag/cover alone or change it all to add an electric starter?

https://youtu.be/yxeB1Qi1j3A

[Steve Jelf]

On pistons I would go with matching aluminum. Rods identical and same weight. On the starter-or-no question I would go stock unless it will be used by somebody with a physical disability. You've been at this game for along time, so you know that a T can and should start easily by hand.

[TWrenn]

You'll get plenty of answers here, some probly better than mine, as I'm no expert.
But I'd at least re-do the "innards" with all matching aluminum pistons and rods, and of course re-do the babbit. No sense not doing all the necessary stuff while it's open, right?

As for the other, yes, leave it "correctly stock".

JMO

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

You'll get plenty of answers here, some probly better than mine, as I'm no expert.
But I'd at least re-do the "innards" with all matching aluminum pistons and rods, and of course re-do the babbit. No sense not doing all the necessary stuff while it's open, right?

As for the other, yes, leave it "correctly stock".

JMO

I agree with Tim, and Steve as well. I'll add however that I would use a flywheel with a ring gear installed and a coil ring with the starter notch, but then use a non-starter hogshead. Even if you never install a starter later, it may be a great selling point if it ever comes to that. And if you do put in a starter one day, you'll thank yourself for having done this now!

[Kerry]

You mention a few times that the rods had no shims, FYI Ford never used any shims on rods, they would be filed to adjust. as for advice on new pistons, for sure but only with a re-bore as well. If the crank still comes in spec, then get it crack tested.

[Gen3AntiqueAuto]

If I stay with the original flywheel, it's already in one piece and just needs to be balanced and re-charged. Or I go newer and I have an original unmolested flywheel (how rare is that these days!) sitting on a shelf that no one will ever want... And honestly if I put a ring gear in it I will want to use it... This hogshead needs to be repaired (video #2 I think) anyway - so.... aluminum hogshead or a starter I guess.

Pistons.... The debate continues! Anyone have any pros/cons I might have forgotten? Cast = smoother slower idle, harder to stall. Alum = more "pep", less spinning weight.

I guess the bottom line SHOULD be - "what would be more interesting to watch" - all original stuff or "upgrades"...

[Les Schubert]

As long as the pistons and rods are installed as “pairs “ you won’t be able to detect any amount of unbalanced vibrations. And I mean that 1&2 as a pair and 3&4 as the other pair. So I would weigh them on an accurate scale and “tune” if they weren’t close!
Personally I would leave it as a nonstarter version.

[Gen3AntiqueAuto]

Yes I should have given the mechanic credit for that. I just can't leave it like that! OCD I guess.

As long as the pistons and rods are installed as “pairs “ you won’t be able to detect any amount of unbalanced vibrations. And I mean that 1&2 as a pair and 3&4 as the other pair. So I would weigh them on an accurate scale and “tune” if they weren’t close!
Personally I would leave it as a nonstarter version.

[Allan]

A 1917 Canadin car has a cast iron hogshead, introduced in 1916
When I built my 1917 shooting brake, it was fitted with a starter type flywheel and choil plate. When ti came to fitting the correct non starter iron hogshead, that was put aside for the next owner, if he or she wants to remove the starter hogshead.
As already pointed out, being starter enabled will be a good selling point.
Allan from down under.

[Gen3AntiqueAuto]

Video #5 is now live... So do I re-use these parts or replace most of it?

https://youtu.be/yE6_ze674ww

What's your opinion?