Upper hose leak

[Art Ebeling]

I have a drip at the upper radiator hose clamp on my 11 that I just can't seem to fix. I have moved the lamp. tightened the clamp, moved the hose but it still drips. Any suggestions? Art

[Mopar_man]

I bet the metal water outlet is pitted. Your best bet is to fill in the pits with silicone and before it dries slip on the hose and clamp it. the silicone should fill in the pits and provide a good seal. Now when you have to take the radiator off un-blot the water outlet.

[Art Ebeling]

I bet the metal water outlet is pitted. Your best bet is to fill in the pits with silicone and before it dries slip on the hose and clamp it. the silicone should fill in the pits and provide a good seal. Now when you have to take the radiator off un-blot the water outlet.

The leak is at the upper clamp on the radiator end. It is a new(2019) Brasseorks radiator.

[NealW]

I had the same issue with our 11 touring restoration project when I finished assembling it last fall. I replaced the Langs style hose clamp with a modern one and also used successive applications of red RTV applied at each end of the hose. If I was installing the radiator and hose again, I would have put some on the beaded area of the radiator inlet and head outlet port too.

[John kuehn]

I’ve found on my T’s the alignment isn’t EXACTLY straight from one to another. One of my cars is a more off than the others because of a recore. I used grease on that one and lowered the clamp just a little and it cured it. Years ago on another car with the same issue I used a hose about 3/4 “ longer and it worked. But I’m not a perfectionist so the the slight misalignment didn’t really bother me as it would others.
To me the modern hose clamps work better and using a modern clamp helps too. But again if your a perfectionist and want to use the original style that may be a issue.

[Mopar_man]

Oh ok so you have a new hose and new radiator. Then the issue is the old style clamp. If you still want to use the old style clamp and not a modern one you can still glue it on with the silicone.

[Norman Kling]

Also take into consideration the alignment of the hose to the engine and radiator. If you have a high head on a car which originally had a low head or vice versa. Likewise the outlet neck from the engine to the hose. Another thing is a sagging frame which will pull the engine to one side and the outlet will not line up with the radiator. There are modern hoses with a flex area between the ends. I don't know if one is available for a T.
Norm

[speedytinc]

Dry it up good & check closely @ the overflow tube & top tank thru connection. Seen many a time, the hose leak was actually liquid coming from the tube connection. The true leak is typically found after several attempts to seal the hose.

[Rich P. Bingham]

. . . the issue is the old style clamp . . .

Unfortunately, the "old style" clamps currently available are simply not robust enough to force a goid seal. Like so many recent reproduction parts, they look like the real thing but are lighter gauge and just enough different to prevent them from giving adequate service.

[RajoRacer]

You might attempt to use sealant with a modern hose clamp, let the sealant "set" then remove the modern clamp & replace with the original style, if that's your preference.

[Steve Jelf]

I replaced the round head screws in my clamps with fillister heads. The screwdriver gets a better bite, and gets the clamps really tight.

Once the leaks are cured, leave the hoses alone. If you have to remove the radiator, take it and the hoses together as a single unit. For the inlet and outlet you can make a permanent gasket. Smear sealant (I prefer Ultra Black) on the surface, apply the paper gasket, and smear sealant on that. Then apply a layer of grease to the engine and head. Bolt on the inlet and outlet tight enough to make a seal, but not completely tight. After the sealant has set thoroughly, tighten the bolts the rest of the way. Any time you need to remove and reinstall your cooling unit, just smear new grease on the engine and head surfaces and install the bolts.

[Rich P. Bingham]

Steve, all the period clamps I've seen have filister head screws.

[Steve Jelf]

...all the period clamps I've seen have filister head screws.

Mine must have been some of those spurious parts Henry warned us about.

[TXGOAT2]

Beware of gyp parts!

[Scott_Conger]

Steve Tomaso's advice works 100%.

If you must have "original" clamps on your car, which I think are made from beer cans, then Ultra Black RTV, a nip with new clamps and then replace new for "original" 24 hours later when dry, and you're golden.

Hoses are good for 20+ years and should almost never need to be replaced. As for removing radiator in the future, it should come off with all hoses and pipes intact (unbolt from block). It takes all of about 3 minutes.

[Art M]

I had a leak like that. No matter what I did to the connection, it wouldn't stop leaking. A new hose without any sealant solved the problem.

Art Mirtes

[Rich Eagle]

I had the same experience as Art. No amount of tinkering helped until I cleaned everything and put new hoses on. No sealants or anything special. Just cleaning.

[Brian D]

The info you have received is really correct! I usually use them together.
The hose kits from the suppliers are so close to tolerance they really are not long enough. I buy the red hose by the foot from Restoration Supply Company (usually at Hershey to save shipping).
Measure and cut to fit.
Clean really good, use RTV as instructed, tighten with modern hose clamp for day or two then replace with original style. If need be I only take apart at block.
Brian

[otrcman]

For putting a new hose on a new rdiator inlet, it's hard to imagine that you have any pits to worry about. I started using a finger smear of grease on both the hose and the inlet, then install hose. That really ended my leak problems and the hoses are sooo easy to remove next time. Old mechanic trick.

Dick