Gunk

[Rod Petrie]

Getting ready to change oil for the second time in my 26TT with rebuilt engine. I removed the inspection cover to check the screen and magnet. It was full ( 2 tablespoons) of what looked like grease and felt like grease. The screen cleaned up easy with parts cleaner but the magnet took a lot of rubbing. I had used 10w30 Penzoil. What am I dealing with? No photos as I cleaned it up before deciding to post this.

[John kuehn]

What kind of oil was put in it when it rebuilt and ran for the first time. Also it could be some type of pre-lube that was used when assembling the engine. If the engine has been running fine with no issues I wouldn’t worry about it. Change the oil and watch the screen after 50 miles or so.
And use a different brand oil. In my high school days and after I wouldn’t use Pennzoil because I thought it looked too dark out of the can. But that’s been 50 years ago and I don’t know about now! I use the Dollar store 10w 30 with no issues in my T’s. But its your choice of course what you use.

[Craig Leach]

Hi Rod,
Could it have been oil soaked iron particals? fresh engines produce a lot of that. Enough to scare many the first incounter. How much clearence
did you have on the 4th main ( ball cap) that would be the first place grease could see the inside of the engine. I install gease zerks on the
reverse and brake peddle shafts and sometimes get to much grease in them. Band material leaves fiber when washed off? Color? If this is the
second oil change there shouldn't be any assembly lube still in it.
Craig.

[CudaMan]

The grease will eventually work its way out, I wouldn't worry about it, IMO. Do you remember if your clutch plate has the plug in the shaft to reduce oil and grease flow to/from the fourth main?

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The stuff on the magnet wants to stay there because it contains iron particles from the surfaces of the drums. I use my fingers to push the particles to one corner of the magnet, then pinch it and pull it off the magnet. It takes several iterations to get the majority of it off.

[JTT3]

Mark I used kitchen type cling wrap on the magnet and a small zip tie to make sure the wrap didn’t come off, later I got brave and skipped the zip tie and made sure that the cut end of the wrap was between the magnet & strainer. Then all you have to do was unwrap it taking the metal fuzz with it. Haven’t had an issue with it coming off. Just a thing you could consider. Thought about a finger cot but wasn’t sure it would take the heat.

[TXGOAT2]

I would guess that the material is very fine break in metal particles, with perhaps some band lint and assembley lube. If silicone sealer was used, it can sometimes release little squishy particles into the oil. Another possibility is that some old gunk escaped detection when the engine or transmission was reworked and has loosened and wound up in the screen. Freshly rebuilt Model T engnies will release some metal fines from the rings and bores, and some aluminum fines from new pistons, and some very fine grayish material from the various bearings. A few small particles of babbit may be seen. I don't think Pennzoil 10W30 would do any Model T engine any harm. I'd change the oil, clean the screen, and keep an eye on it. The next oil change should show much less debris.

[CudaMan]

Neat idea, thanks!

[Mark Nunn]

John T. is right. Glad Press-N-Seal makes cleanup easy. I just make sure that I have a piece of it in the shop BEFORE I get my hands greasy. That maintains civility in the house.

[Steve Jelf]

I believe the only thing wrong with Penzoil is the higher price that subsidizes its expensive advertising. A less costly brand is fine if it has the API seal on the container.

https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG103.html