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Topic author
cwhuntersr
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2023 3:58 pm
- First Name: CW
- Last Name: Hunter
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Roadster Pickup
- Location: Frederick, md
Post
by cwhuntersr » Tue Nov 21, 2023 10:56 am
I have to replace the steering gearbox and I've pulled the gearbox from the steering column, but is there a specific way of removing the rods from the gearbox?
I'm guessing it's just heating it up and prying them open, but just want to make sure before I ruin anything (although I'm not sure the gearbox is usable to anyone else)
For some reason the steering in my gearbox doesn't have a pin guide
Thanks
Last edited by
cwhuntersr on Tue Nov 21, 2023 1:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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speedytinc
- Posts: 4727
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
- First Name: john
- Last Name: karvaly
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
- Board Member Since: 2020
Post
by speedytinc » Tue Nov 21, 2023 11:15 am
Is your steering column mounting base square?
Given the limited clues, I would say you have the wrong column.
The gear case should have the travel limiting stop. Your steering ratio should be 5-1 marked on the shaft & gear stub.(this could have been changed)
Given that, I wouldnt waste time restoring the wrong column. @ the least, the gear case in earlier.
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Mark Nunn
- Posts: 1241
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:01 am
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Nunn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Runabout
- Location: Bennington, NE
- Board Member Since: 2017
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by Mark Nunn » Tue Nov 21, 2023 1:02 pm
CW, The bronze material of these gearboxes has a very low work-hardening limit. Once annealed, it can be stretched about 15% before breakage can occur. I did the same task that you are doing and researched the metallurgy to ensure success. You cannot just heat the casting and pry it open in one step. You have to get it really hot with a torch, let it cool naturally and pry a little bit. Then repeat the process several times until the rods can be removed. Good luck.
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Mark Nunn
- Posts: 1241
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:01 am
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Nunn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Runabout
- Location: Bennington, NE
- Board Member Since: 2017
Post
by Mark Nunn » Tue Nov 21, 2023 1:07 pm
The pin slot was introduced in 1921. This is from the encyclopedia.
10/28/21 Added 3/32” to under side of cup, added slot for
stop pin in bottom. Brought drawing up to date
by specifying outside of cup to be machined and
nickel plated, changed distance between lugs
which hold throttle and lead rods from 21/64” to
21/64-11/32”.
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Topic author
cwhuntersr
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2023 3:58 pm
- First Name: CW
- Last Name: Hunter
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Roadster Pickup
- Location: Frederick, md
Post
by cwhuntersr » Tue Nov 21, 2023 1:15 pm
Thanks Mark and Speedy
The bottom of the steering column is square - like the 26-27 are supposed to have, the steering rod has a "5" cast on it (see below), and the steering gears are 9/13 teeth...so I think the only thing wrong is the steering gearbox, which I am working on a replacement
Thanks for the help guys!
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John kuehn
- Posts: 4433
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:00 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Kuehn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 19 Roadster, 21 Touring, 24 Coupe
- Location: Texas
Post
by John kuehn » Tue Nov 21, 2023 3:13 pm
This is another lesson how a Model T’s original parts got changed over the years. Lots of parts would interchange but there were differences! It’s not real common to find a “pure” Model T that’s completely original. Good luck with your column rebuild.
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DanTreace
- Posts: 3813
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘12 open express,'23 cutoff, '27 touring
- Location: North Central FL
- Board Member Since: 2000
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Contact:
Post
by DanTreace » Tue Nov 21, 2023 4:26 pm
The tabs on the gear cluster can be carefully bent back, after annealing the tabs. You only need to open them just enough to remove and install the rods. If you aren't going to re-use the case, the tabs can be bent cold, with a screwdriver tip, but they will fracture.
Heat with torch to dull red, then let cool. Bend back gently. Usually, pulling up on the rods will open the tabs enough. After the new cluster is re-nickeled, repeat the process to allow the tabs to be closed back over the rods.
Here is install after dull red heat, and cooling. Note the discolor of the new nickel plate when the tabs were heated to anneal for folding back on the rods.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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Topic author
cwhuntersr
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2023 3:58 pm
- First Name: CW
- Last Name: Hunter
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Roadster Pickup
- Location: Frederick, md
Post
by cwhuntersr » Wed Nov 22, 2023 7:28 am
John kuehn wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2023 3:13 pm
This is another lesson how a Model T’s original parts got changed over the years. Lots of parts would interchange but there were differences! It’s not real common to find a “pure” Model T that’s completely original. Good luck with your column rebuild.
Thanks John
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Topic author
cwhuntersr
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2023 3:58 pm
- First Name: CW
- Last Name: Hunter
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Roadster Pickup
- Location: Frederick, md
Post
by cwhuntersr » Wed Nov 22, 2023 7:29 am
DanTreace wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2023 4:26 pm
The tabs on the gear cluster can be carefully bent back, after annealing the tabs. You only need to open them just enough to remove and install the rods. If you aren't going to re-use the case, the tabs can be bent cold, with a screwdriver tip, but they will fracture.
Heat with torch to dull red, then let cool. Bend back gently. Usually, pulling up on the rods will open the tabs enough. After the new cluster is re-nickeled, repeat the process to allow the tabs to be closed back over the rods.
Here is install after dull red heat, and cooling. Note the discolor of the new nickel plate when the tabs were heated to anneal for folding back on the rods.
Heated red tabs closed over.jpg
Thanks for the pointers Dan - great information
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Oldav8tor
- Posts: 2246
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:39 am
- First Name: Tim
- Last Name: Juhl
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1917 Touring
- Location: Thumb of Michigan
- Board Member Since: 2018
Post
by Oldav8tor » Wed Nov 22, 2023 9:30 am
CW - I have nothing to add other than you take great photos that help a lot.
1917 Touring
1946 Aeronca Champ
1952 Willys M38a1 Jeep (sold 2023)
1953 Ford Jubilee Tractor
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Topic author
cwhuntersr
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2023 3:58 pm
- First Name: CW
- Last Name: Hunter
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Roadster Pickup
- Location: Frederick, md
Post
by cwhuntersr » Wed Nov 22, 2023 11:14 am
Oldav8tor wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2023 9:30 am
CW - I have nothing to add other than you take great photos that help a lot.
I'd love to take the credit, but it's the Samsung Galaxy 23...just does a great job especially with one hand holding the part