1926 Tudor progress and questions

[RoadMoyer]

So I finished another week at my parents working on the model T with my dad and sister. I feel like it’s mechanically and electrically good enough for now so we started on getting the body all together. My dad had bought this partially restored 35 years ago but life kept him too busy to work on it.

A couple of body related questions that I’ve searched and can’t find answers. I’m not sure I’m using the right terms, which may be what I can’t find anything.
1. What bolts are used on the body crossmembers to attach them to the frame? I assumed they would be carriage bolts but the holes in the body crossmembers are round not square. I didn’t think they would put hex heads there, but im not sure how to tighten it otherwise.
2. On the rear fender there are two bolts attached to the body and two nuts attached to the body. I assume this is so you can get the fender off without removing interior parts. The two bolts on the driver side are snapped off very sort. It looks like the bolts are welded to small plates that are welded to the body. So do I need to cut those plates off and weld in new ones or is there some other option?
3. I read some on the firewall attachment to the brackets to not have those too tight for risk of cracking firewall. Is that right on the 26? What’s too tight?
4. What’s one piece of advice as I transition from driving in low gear 100 yds up and down the driveway to testing it on a country road?

Thanks!

[Bryant]

Question#2

This I believe is the little plate you are referring to for the fender mount.
I would try to drill out the bolt and re tap or cut the attached nut off and re weld a new one on. The plate is spot welded in many places that require removing the quarter panel.

these show spot welds removed and it also is attached to a vertical support.
Mine was a complete mess. I decided to disassemble everything and turn it into a closed cab pickup.

Bryant

[Bryant]

Question#1
My crossmember bolts where carriage.
I assume when you have new wood under them they would sink in and grip good enough to tighten them. I could be wrong though. I had to cut all of them off because they were so rusted and the wood was rotted away.

Bryant

[jiminbartow]

I suggest you determine the diameter and length of bolt, nut, washer and lock washer you need for each hole and purchase the fasteners from a hardware store so you can start putting it all together. If any of the holes are countersunk, purchase countersunk bolts for those locations. Any bolts that have ID or grade markings on the heads should be ground smooth and sanded smooth as bolts did not have marks on them back then. Later, if you find the correct bolts, you can replace them if it is important to you, but most don’t pay much attention to the bolts. Just don’t use nylon insert nuts.

At the top of this page at the very right, you will see “gallery”. Click onto it and a page of drawings, diagrams and charts will appear. In the right column, about 6 lines down will be a box that says “bolt charts” containing 11 charts listing the correct bolts for the Model T. This might help.

[Bill Mullins]

Leave the brackets off they will crack the firewall.

[RoadMoyer]

At the top of this page at the very right, you will see “gallery”. Click onto it and a page of drawings, diagrams and charts will appear. In the right column, about 6 lines down will be a box that says “bolt charts” containing 11 charts listing the correct bolts for the Model T. This might help.

Thanks for the help! This chart is why I wonder if I’m calling them the wrong thing - I don’t see anything for 26-27 in relation to body/frame connection bolts, yet I believe there are 8 of them (2 near pedals, 4 in the body crossmembers, 2 on rear springs). I see some for earlier cars on the list. I’ve got bolts I can use, but they are hex head not carriage, which just doesn’t feel tight.

Thanks again!

And thanks for the other responses as well. I like the idea of drilling the bolt out.

[DanTreace]

On the Improved cars, the cowl (dash) is more robust. And more body to frame bolts.

On those '26-'27 models, one of the two firewall bracket to frame bolts should be left off otherwise the frame to cowl (dash) bracket can be cracked. Ford made an Engineering Change in fastening those bolts to frame in 1925 (See Ford Service Chapter 11, Assembling the Car, Paragraph 85, Install dash brackets) with note that states only one bolt is now being used in each dash bracket, when assembling the brackets to the frame.

DCP_0531 (472x532).jpg (142.62 KiB) Viewed 329 times

But even so, the frame to cowl brackets should be in place.

Henry wouldn't have placed them if they weren't needed!

The body bolts are 7/16" fine thread, hex head. Lengths should allow 1/2" of thread exposed after tightening over the lock washers. 1 5/8" length generally works.