MTFCA Forum

I see nothing wrong in adding a second pin. That will keep the thrust washer from pivoting on the single pin, wearing into the carrier. I dont see there being any more than minor wear in a well lubricated rear end. Where I have seen the most wear here is in a dry rear end from a trailer/hay wagon. T...

Note the gear race OD is smaller than later gears. I wonder if there is/was a greater tendency to crack/split @ the key way of the earlier gear. I agree with the cost saving nature of the change. As we know from the longevity of later carriers. the bushings were not necessary. I also wonder the ID o...

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑
Fri Nov 21, 2025 4:42 pm
Daniel Boone's ax has had seven new handles and three new heads.

So did Washington's axe.

Coincidentally, I own one of those early 15's. Block is 10/2x/14 cast date. The body looks 14.(big cherry wood firewall). Front fenders are browed, rears are curved. It's an early 15. 15 model according to period literature. The later bodied cars are/were converted to 15's. A new member has an awful...

Drobnock wrote: ↑
Fri Nov 21, 2025 2:43 pm
Just saying...

There may have been 15 million Model Ts produced,

But I am certain that there are now a greater number of 1914 Model Ts than those produce by the FMC in 1914.

You mean 15's. 14's ain't so easy to fake.

I have not seen non D steel fellows on non starter T's. I did see an original, non messed with 26 electric delete roadster.
It had 30x3 & 30x3.5" wood fellow wheels.
Is there evidence (pictorial or otherwise) of steel fellow, non demountable wheels coming on a T from the factory?

Yes. & you can tow in gear with the spark plugs removed.
The point is the engine needs to keep moving/splashing oil into the bearings.

ModelT46 wrote: ↑
Thu Nov 20, 2025 2:23 pm
does it have the correct 1913 body with the long door?

Yes. Correct 13 only trunk also.
This T appears to have been an original, low mileage 13 T before the restoration 50+ years ago.

If you feel you must! Admin jeff sells converted to 12V T starters. Its a PITA job. I have done a few also. A model T generator will produce 12V. It dont know any better. One must adjust the output to 1/2 for longevity purposes, 4-5 amps is plenty anyway. That saves a few bucks, keeps a T motor look...

T4Tom wrote: ↑
Wed Nov 19, 2025 9:53 pm
Careful! Those two posts are spam or some kind of scam. Note the inclusion of websites and email.

I hope admin hops on this.

It's a word for word copy of my old post.

The taxi is a 15-16.

We have done auctions of items donated by members annually. T related. Extra parts, literature, antiques, etc.
Executed on a Saturday. The club provides lunch.(catered BBQ usually) Lots of fun, Lots of bargains & enough money raised to operate the club for the year +.

Cracked low drum.

The problems with Kevlar are all operator/installer error. I have not run cotton for decades, so I cant answer that question. I have installed many sets of scandia bands for newbie T owners & have not heard of quick wear & replacement. If you have any trepidation's/concerns running kevlar, definitel...

First question: was the HH removed for the installation of correctly installed/shaped Kevlar bands? Band must be round with NO band high spots. (No lumps) Do the triple gears start to sing @ what point in the movement range of pedal travel? Any sing denotes the band rubbing/creating friction on the ...

+2 The forum needs intelligent participants. Dont allow the few fools to discourage you.
I found an answer in the "FOE" setting. Mark the fools as foe & you dont see their nonsense.
Its made my participation much more pleasant.

That covers the whole range from 14-27.
You can see, you need to specify which one you want.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Thu Nov 13, 2025 6:32 pm
Could be a battery charger.

Diode indicates a rectifier.
Unit to change AC to charge a DC battery.

A wheelwright. Dave Seiler, Stutzman, etc.

The loose rust dust on the rims indicate to me that the fellows were loose. Those fellows will need material added to make for a correct tight fit. The fellows are held onto the rim by press/shrink fit, not the 4 rivets alone. I believe the spokes available are for demount-able fellows. You will pro...

Grind a bar/plate to fit in the race about 1/2 way down. Weld onto the race with a wire welder.
Tap it out against the welded plate/bar with a rod/pipe from the opposite side.

There is a choke & tickler.
Are there both pull rods outside the radiator? & how are they differentiated?

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Sun Nov 09, 2025 12:37 pm
Ingenious!

Here is a true machinist.

What BALLS. A guy screws up your order & asks you to help pay for his screw up.
Yea, a real pro.
Try offering a bit of extra money to be sent AFTER your part arrives. Crickets??....

Is this a delaying ploy to get your initial payment cleared?
Plus pluck a little more from the "sucker".

You didnt post a pix of the kevlar bands you wanted evaluated.

If you cant find an illusive usable original unit, repair what you have.
I have one with a tab broken away from the bakelite. Easy enough to make a tab & epoxy or hot glue it in place.
You have the other side as a sample.
A tab could be modified from an electric plug prong.

Must be rears? If so ,they fit roadster & roadster pick up also.
That will widen your customer base. Good luck.

Scammer alert mavo7777 Post by Karl Von Neumann » Sat Nov 01, 2025 5:32 am Mavo7777 tried to sell me a wonderful pair of 12 head lights that are on ebay. Use Google lens guys it will save you butt Please hold the other 6 voices are taking a vote. Second member making this claim. Found in the classif...

I am not saying a babbitted cap will prevent a broken crank or cure a misalignment. In fact, a worn/chewed up babbit 4th main is a quick sign of a serious misalignment. Seen this many times. A perfectly made BB cap would not cause a problem. However, many past & present examples fall way short. As f...

Search "ball bearing 4th main" This debate has been had. Interesting take away - Herm Made a unit from modified original ball caps. No hacking of the DS ball.(Like) He only sold to reputable builders only. I understand. You cant buy one, slap it on & expect success AS DESIGNED. Anything but a dialed...

I have a late '25 with that setup. All genuine Ford parts. Never had a problem. There it is. The problem is these repop parts don't fit. You cant buy a part & expect it to fit correctly. T owners, or their hired mechanics need to have some skills. As a carb rebuilder, my time is better spent repair...

George House wrote: ↑
Thu Oct 30, 2025 12:20 pm
I wholeheartedly agree Michael ! But why won’t you trade Greenland to us for California ?

HEY!!!!!
How bout trading our Ca. Legislators for Greenlands?

Do not use ring gear shims. They can cause a failure down the road with sheared bolts. Better to use shims under the steel thrust washers if needed. However, the brass thrust washers are thicker than stock & usually need thinning for proper clearances in a non Rux rear end.(no shims needed) You can ...

WorldChamp1914 wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 29, 2025 4:24 pm
Thanks for the link, but it is 1/2 inch thick……I did hear back from Bob on EBAY….everything was sold to BirdHaven

That's a very odd thread. You are lucky to find anything usable even with modification needed.

You might consider a copy of Bruce McCalley's book (or CD)
It's an excellent reference for correctness & changes for all model T's.

Reporting couldnt be easier. On the all posts there is an (! & a ") in the right corner. You clicked the (") to comment on the post. Click on the (!). a screen will pop up asking for an explanation of why you find the post objectionable. Many times another diligent participant has already reported. ...

If it mine, I would replace all the "modified" parts. But, that's me, I have all those parts on hand. These modified parts too often fail. I am all about reliability & doing a motor once. D.S. : The ball end is a ball joint. Cutting the end usually adds a lot of unwanted slop. Depending on the type ...

Neat piece however........... Not T?
Input looks to be bigger (1/4 npt). Judging size by the finger, looks too short.
It looks like a device oiler, not a crankcase site gauge.

Rich P. Bingham wrote: ↑
Mon Oct 27, 2025 1:59 pm
#6 is intriguing ! It appears to be an assembly plant for right-hand drive cars, 1915-16. Australia ? UK ?

Probably earlier. Note head light forks - acetylene.

#1.
How do you suppose that box mounted to the coupe. Fuel tank was in the trunk.
Would they have cut the trunk off? Would they have removed the trunk lid & Built the box around the existing trunk?

IMO New day.
I prefer to make a soft carbon brush.
I tried them all. Best firing accuracy, minimal maintenance & long life.
You do need to seal the cam. (must be dry) & cam front thrusting (in & out movement) can cause problems.

Dan T, Is this the exact same bracket used on 1925 pickup beds for fender mounting?

You might want to specify wood or wire wheels.

Run on crank speed. No wasted spark.

I'd be down for some brake rebuild kits. PM me thru the forum. Send pix.

It's a 1/2 essed way to take up the wear on the ball & socket. Those shims will pound out in time.
Note the gap between the cap & base. There must be a small gap.
The springs provide the tension to hold the wishbone ball firmly in place to stay snug without moving around loose.

I think what you are experiencing is the more accurate firing a new day gives. The anderson can be made to fire accurately by bending the contact arms. Takes quite a bit of experimenting/tweeking & on & off with the timer. IMHO the new day is the best off the shelf timer. But with that comes the nee...

I only use the 1 piece cast iron oil ring. Grant I think? Confirm with the vendor.
I like a .0045-.005 piston clearance. With the extra clearance, get .030 over & fit each ring to each cylinder.

Try a jump test between the 2 starter switch terminals. (Heavy cable or jumper cable)
That will rule in/out the switch & starter.
A hot switch tells me insulators grounding or a bad internal connection.

Try a jump test between the 2 starter switch terminals. (Heavy cable or jumper cable)
That will rule in/out the switch & starter.

Original or repop type replacement switch? Repops regularly fail/burn out.
From what i have seen failures are a matter of when.
Originals can be easily refurbished if the bus bar is fairly solid.

Do not undercut the mica. Not done to starters. That will ruin that armature.
Seal - best to remove, shorten & add a properly sized lip seal.
If you dont have the skills, send to a rebuilder as a core for a rebuilt unit.

First choice - Hook to the frame on either side of the front motor mount.(pre diaper '24)
Second choice - Hook to BOTH sides of the front axle @ the spring perches with a tow strap or cable. pull @ the center.
Third choice - Hook to the axle on ONE side @ the perch.

That top ring should have a minimum of .015 but closer to .018. At .010 if you overheat it or run it hard you will have a problem. Sorry, but you should pull the pistons out and redo the end gap. Top ring will expand the most due to being in the hottest position. T motors don't cool as well as a mo...

Bitchiest period ignition system for dual plug heads. Scarce period speed equipment.

Kevin Pharis wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 15, 2025 8:30 pm
If a brass car, pulling the firewall might provide the needed access…?

15 as listed in your profile?
Pull the hood former/firewall. Short drill bit & drill. Drill angle drive maybe.

Langs sells the earlier "recessed" style for $9.95.
Keep the fuel door closed & no one will criticize you.

It's a good idea the first time if its never been done. A light surface lap @ least to get a true look @ the sealing surfaces.
Every removal - NO.

I agree John, Treating the hobby with cheapness is what gets potential buyers or opinionators saying a painted, upholstered, driver with good wheels and tires should sell for 7,000. Reality is tough. Its supply & demand. There are a lot of T's coming out of estates & from old guys & little demand f...

The clutch linkage adjustments are critical. These adjustments are well described & illustrated in the SERVICE MANUAL. You should have & read the service manual. T-1 available thru all the parts vendors & on line. I frequently refer to the service manual while working on T's To be accurate getting t...

Permatex Ultra black.
There is a black rtv that is thin like the clear stuff. Not good enough.

Welcome to the Model T world! Personally, I would not worry about a 3/16 inch gap but if you are, could add an 1/8-inch steel or brass thrust washer. Most have worn some over the years but that little amount of wear should not hurt anything. What is more important is the condition of the pins and b...

No spacer. Doesnt sound right. Post a picture if possible.

Its the big cover plate @ the bottom of the crankcase ahead of the transmission sump. Its the access plate to get to the rods & mains.

The dipper cover holds 1/2 qt or so of oil. Since this is an unknown motor, go a step beyond an oil change. Remove the dipper cover & horse shoes to wipe out the sediment that collects there & the dirty oil that doesnt drain from the plug. Good time to check rod looseness & remove a shim or two if n...

What you are saying about center tire wear is correct for modern tires. Post clincher. The higher pressure for clincher tires is to keep the tire on the rim. Yes, 60# is way more pressure than a T needs for weight support. Balloon tires were/are inflated to the appropriate pressures based on weight ...

@ 50 # you risk rolling off a tire. 60# is my minimum.

Too risky to leave in. Agitation with the oil will move it. Might land in the transmission screen or tangle up in the field coil. Try fishing thru the drain hole. You can see the flywheel teeth. Fish/rake with a piece of bailing wire. Once you touch it with the wire to have it located, you can put a...

Boat launching incident. Still a common problem today.

There were similar slingers from a south manufacturer of T parts that fatigue & come apart.
Has that problem been cured, or will it be the reason for the next tear down?

Very nice.
It's all I can do to get my wife to take the pix, send to me, down load, resize, place, describe & not lose the whole mess & start over.
Therefore, your ability impresses me. Thank you.

I am not sure I would try 6mm in a 1/4-20 thread. Much too sloppy loose. Why not use 1/4-20 in a 1/4-20 hole??
Arent the repop ring gear threads 1/4-24? I don't have an experienced answer for a 1/4-24 thread.
6mm work well in the correct/original 14-24 ring gear holes.

Andre, if you ditch the magneto, retap the ring gear 1/4"-20, and use bolts and lockwashers all the way around the gear, short enough to be flush on the drive side. Not necessary to re-tap the ring gear. If its a ring gear with the correct threads, there is a metric screw (6mm) that will self lock ...

I agree. Its them nuts. The bendix gear will engage to the flat face of the counterweight.
Look closely @ the nuts for damage marks.

Early T cam brgs.jpg I found 2 early cam bearings. The one on the left is like Dans. (not as clean) The one on the right, I suspect is earlier. You can see the part # in raised cast. T41 or T411. Note there is 2 ring groves. One on each end. Only one ring installed. Maybe some of the guys that work...

You can loop the cable into the brake lever hole. Use cable crimp connectors or cable clamps.
There is a common cable piece that is a u channel shaped like a tear drop. That can be used with the cable to protect the cable from wearing in the brake lever hole.

Interesting.
I notice the rod clevises mount to a small plate that acts as an equalizer.
The secondary pull rod has a spring to remove the slack from the system.

Early, early cam bearings have no babbit. They also look radically different in that instead of the solid body as the later ones have, they have ribs, like cooling ribs that contact the block on those rib edges. Much less contact & wear those ribs into the block to fit looser faster. I don't know wh...

My advice, which I have shared with several would be buyers, assume a complete engine overhaul, absent of conclusive proof otherwise, pay accordingly. That prices the prettiest T's in the $6-8K range. Add the extra $6K for the rebuild. You are in for $12k. You still may not be able to recoup all you...

I have been using the word "rebuilt", the owner clarified that and told me he was not told it was rebuilt but restored and gone thru. All in all it looks like a nice car. Art ......... with another $6,000 in mechanical work. This situation is all too common. But, that's the way I like to buy a pers...

Verified....

I also dont do fake book. Based on Pat's description, I can add recent experience. I had a T motor come in seized. Primarily from head gasket leaks that rusted & stuck #4 piston. During the tear down & rebuild I discovered #1 piston & bore severely scored. (original iron pistons) Fortunately babbit ...

Very clean fix.
If you have the capability, thats a great way to replace the threads.

The current bridge washer offerings are not made correctly. They got the thickness and shape correct, but didn't do the stamping correctly. Why? There is a round stamping around the stem hole to help the bridge washer seat on the tube. Is there anyone anywhere, that is capable of doing this? My tak...

Daisy Mae wrote: ↑
Sat Oct 04, 2025 6:19 pm
Sure looks like a run dry bearing to me, being a new rebuild maybe clearance set too tight ?
I'd certainly be pulling every cap to check/verify.

Then I would want to look @ the mains.

You can clean off the babbitt and polish the journal, then carefully check it for roundness, taper, and size. The replacement rod can be fitted for size, if the journal is an off-size, but the the journal must be round and straight. There are a number of reasons why the bearing could have failed. H...

mtntee20 wrote: ↑
Sat Oct 04, 2025 6:10 pm
Ben, Did you see Admin Jeff has a 6v starter for sale on the parts page?

A) The ad said all sold. & B) The poster has GENERATOR problems, not starter.

I do not run a battery cutoff switch. I dont/wouldnt worry about the starter switch unless you are not using an original switch per original. Seen the repops fail @ a high rate. My area of concern(by experience) is the positive cable crossing the factory battery mounting bracket. I have addressed th...

Thanks. I looked em up. Quite inexpensive.

Are currently available battery cutoff switches really good enough to carry the high amp loads of a 6V system? What size are the terminal studs? 3/8"? A fellow member has burned out/melted a few. Are there cheap/lite weight units to avoid? Are there preferred styles? Is the Langs unit adequate & rel...

One of our smarter guys had an interesting idea.
Check to see if 1 & 2 timer wires were mixed up.
Those 2 cylinders not firing @ the right time?
You did Change the timer.

Let us know when you find out.

Re: OCMTFC SWAPMEET 7:00 AM tomorrow. All systems are a go. See you there.

7:00 AM tomorrow. All systems are a go. See you there.

Where is the hi speed needle set? S/B 1 1/4 turns open.
Consider a rear port vacuum leak. Carb gets set extra rich to run those 2 cylinders while flooding out the front cylinders.

Test the plugs under pressure. You could try gapping the plugs to .024". Do a compression test. You switched the plugs, did you switch coils around? I would spray brake clean or starting fluid around the intake manifold looking for vacuum leaks. Fuel level is easy to check on a G in the car. Remove ...

What you are doing has been done. Search in past posts.

Armature gets growler tested. If bad, it needs rewind. No need if it passes the tests.
I wouldn't have removed the fields unless they also failed the test.
They are different than original. May have been replaced @ one time.

During a tour, we had a modern following with their emergency flashers on.
CHP pulled her over & gave a harsh warning about driving with hazard lights on.

Those are not T armatures. You may not need a new armature. Service manual has a good section on testing & trouble shooting. If you are not capable, there are re builders that frequent this forum & can provide a rebuilt unit. If you find a local guy, maybe he will do the necessary repairs without a ...

You have a broken brush holder. It could be grounding out now. & its filthy with carbon dust.
I wouldn't waste my time installing before a tear down/rebuild.

My preferences.
Valvoline racing 30 wt. Any good detergent 30 wt will do.
Water soluble oil for the radiator in distilled water. Sold @ auto parts stores as "anti rust & water pump lube."

Buckle up. Many opinions coming.

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