MTFCA Forum

How much ?? & what kind of wheels?

Dragging clutch. Your compression is low. Should spin real easy.
If leave in gear(brake lever forward) there is generally less drag.
Try starting with one wheel up, in gear. You should notice its easier to crank.

Originally 212.
Currently 7212

DO NOT USE A 6212 (non side load bearing)

I agree the problem presents like a faulty starter but, OP claims the starter is new. The stud should not be an issue.
The definition of "new starter" is not clear however.
New as in a WASP (only new available), fresh rebuild by a reputable guy, or newly picked from the parts shelf.

Any one or combination of "new" parts can be defective, incorrect or just plain crap. Narrow it down. Pull the bendix. With a leather glove, engage the starter & try to stop it. If you can, its a weak starter or power issue. If the starter is strong, its the bendix. New Bendix? what does that mean? ...

I disagree. Already 20 under. +wear?? Offered crank is only .002" larger. Very doable with timesaver.
Bonus: the new bearing surfaces will be 100%.
I have done the same, fitting a 1.250 scat crank to a standard Babbitt block.

I would not pass up this excellent crank.

Yes..............

5 or 6??

FWIW I have mine coming thru the floor board. Knob just above the board.
I didnt want to mutilate an original splash apron.

No need to change hubs, they are the same. Change the brake shoes & drums. You will need the later radius rods, spring perches & parking brake rods. We're it me, I would build a big drum rux. I know its not correct for you, but you get brakes suitable as a service brake. No need for RM brakes & work...

I have restored several different aux T transmissions. Not yours specifically. I prefer Jumbo Giants. They all are very similar in design. Shift forks attached to rods. The rods have detents for large ball bearings pushed by springs to retain their position. (stay in gear selected) In order of failu...

Offer the option of a round piece of drill rod. That's how I make them.

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Mon Sep 08, 2025 5:46 pm
Thanks John, I need about 10 sets. Dan

That's what I use. Much improved over stock type.
You are aware the knurled portion has to be taken down a little? Then you have a "pin" tight fit.

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Mon Sep 08, 2025 4:15 pm
Anyone know the modern part number for the connecting rod bolts. I think it is a Chevy rod bolt, which one? Thanks Dan

Small block V8 chevy. 350 on down.

Loose lugs look like chebies. Do they say Jaxon? Chev rims valve stem is on the opposite side of a lug to a ford. I dont have a rim I can look @ to confirm.

Go for it.
The less common T versions of T's are more interesting. RHD 4 doors - COOL.
I wonder if that T is the same T the dealer owned & put a later tag on it, maybe for dealership display.
Coincidence or not??

Nice flush system you built. Look into the top radiator tank. You can see a few of the tubes. You can gauge the condition of any build up & if chunks of rust are blocking the tubes. Reverse flush those chunks out. The same or similar setup to pressure flush will do a good job removing those chunks w...

Isnt it interesting, according to the drawing records, that the wide drum was anticipated for some 18 months before the wide drum was used?
Or was the wider brake drum clearance there for ease of narrow band installs thru the inspection cover without thought of a wider drum?

I agree, but have not seen one yet.

No nut. Remove it, find the cotter pin hole & pin it.

Doesn't have to be strong. Filling the worn spot just tightens the potential movement if loose.
Did you deal with the corresponding wear in the DS tube?

It's the can on top of the generator.

How is it that we're suggesting he doesn't have a pan suited for a wide brake? He's changing a band, not putting an engine/transmission together for the first time. So, it has apparently worked just fine prior to this. That's not clear. He claims all his bands were narrow in the past. (first line) ...

Consider green (wicking) locktite.

TMiller6 wrote: ↑
Thu Sep 04, 2025 12:20 pm
I thought all four dip pans had the provision to accommodate the wide brake drum.

If you have a four dip pan, you have the correct pan.

I am not so sure, but have not proved otherwise.
The 4 dip pan came before the wide brake drum.
In theory, there could be 4 dips that wont fit the wide drum.

If a wide band came out, I can't see why a new lining would not go back in. Does you pan have a depression in it to accommodate the wider band? Allan from down under. Never had a problem like you describe. To run the wide band, you need a wide drum, late HH, & 4 dip pan with the formed relief for t...

LittleTimmy52 wrote: ↑
Wed Sep 03, 2025 7:02 pm
My rear spring bushings on one side it looks like the spring hole for the bushing is too big as the bushing went in and out with hand force, as in I can pull it out, this would defiantly spin with use, how might I stop it from spinning?

Make your own from an over sized bronze bushing.

They do not look the same. A battery horn has a large cover on the back.

John- your equalizer assembly was made by me for use with my small drum AC brakes that I reproduced for many years. Just don't want folks to get confused with original versus reproduction parts. Dan Thanks Dan. I appreciate the info. Makes sense being in new condition & came with a set of AC small ...

My "modern" Rocky Mountain brakes have rods with the associated equalizer. If I were to convert "back" to cables, two questions: Did the originals interact with the parking brake, and if so, how? Or since I already have the equalizer installed and linked to the brake pedal and parking brake, should...

Good period picture showing the rear closely following the rear body tub angle.

Rocky Mountain unit.jpeg RM brake linkage 2.jpeg RMbrake linkage.jpeg Rocky Mountai brake drum.jpeg The pedal linkage unit appears to be unused. mounts to pivot from the DS tube. Pedal clamp is 2 pieces cast to clamp onto pedal with 1/4" bolts. Drums are riveted together. Obviously made for a cable...

You can lift the frame & get the front axle to drop, giving you access as the shackles rotate up.
You can assist the process with a big screwdriver or pry bar.
You can install the missing oilers.
A bit of oil on both sides of the spring bushing is good also as TXGOAT mentioned.

Looks like the "oil can" thing is to protect from sucking in trash. The top has an adjusting nut for air intake?. Constant speed boat/canoe motor?

My roadster PU oilers, & my 23, Now that I think of it are tight getting oil into the cups. However with the openings toward the center of the spring, there is enough room to open just enough to get the end of the oil can in. Be sure the oilers were installed all the way in. 26-7 springs are near fl...

John Karvaly---> I will do a careful look-see through the fill hole at the ring gear teeth and if they look good I intend to keep running it as is. If it matters, the overhaul in 2017 was done by Larry Blair at Tin Shed using new parts from Chaffins. Larry is still around. Why not call him? He migh...

Bore scope thru the grease fill plug. Look @ the gear teeth.

Some repair history is in order here. Back in 2017 the rear end exploded due to a split pinion gear caused by disintegrated babbit thrust washers. I had a complete overhaul with new ring & pinion set, new BRONZE thrust washers, new driveshaft, and a new u-joint installed at that time. There is NO i...

Sounds like either a lost Babbitt thrust washer on the left side or the loss/destruction of the pinion bearing & race. The growling is the gear teeth slipping out of mesh. Lift the fear end up on both sides. Check the wheels for in & out movement. There should be very little to none. Best to pull th...

Leaking around the threads or from the crimp of the base to porcelain? Its a mix of fuel & oil before combustion.
Threads can be sealed with a bit of anti seize. I prefer the conductive stuff. Mine is aluminum based.
There is a copper version also.

Oil on the outside of the plugs or inside around the electrode?

I believe ATMS offers both early(small) & later(larger) outer seal caps.

Al that stuff is model A.

Aftermarket bolt/clamp on grease seal cap worn out/thru.

I would not be surprised an inline filter worked on a cowl tank. It USUALLY DOESN’T work… You initially run out of gas with right around 3-5 gallons remaining. And it gradually gets worse. Of course, I defer to those with the experience. There is so much more head pressure with the cowl tank, Ford ...

I have not yet changed the oil. So the question is when I drain the oil, is there a product that can clean up the oil in the transmission (without damage to the parts) where I can use a bore scope type of product to inspect the bottom of the unit? I don't know the history of this car and want to ge...

How do I remove the driveshaft bushing? DIY tool https://modeltfordfix.com/rebuilding-the-drive-shaft/ The tool is made from 1/2″ galvanized pipe, a piece that is 60 inches (5 feet) long. 1/2″ water pipe measures .840″ on its outside diameter, the size designation refers to the inside diameter. The...

Look @ the service manual. The band nut has 2 V detents. The Special washer has a raised bump to hold itself in the nut to maintain the adjustment. That washer has a raised tab that fits into a slot cut into the shaft. (probably on the underside you cant see) The correct washer can be on backwards &...

I believe I built mine from a tinkering tips manual. It consists of a 1/2" pipe cap machined a bit to fit into the base of the bushing & 4 wide notches to clear the rivets. The cap is screwed onto a pipe one foot longer than the drive shaft. Carefully align the cap to clear the rivets & hit the end ...

Under seat vs cowl tank is apples & bananas. I would not be surprised an inline filter worked on a cowl tank.

Dung beetle? Please explain John. A previous post told the story of the explanation of the pyramid & the scarab beetle. That beetle is also known as a dung beetle. When someone pointed this out to Henery, Henry had this symbol removed from the dealers. I believe the story came from the post on the ...

Moxie26 wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 21, 2025 5:42 pm
Speedytinc and Txgoat2 .... Your responses sound more like artificial intelligence. . really ?????

I expect no less from you.

Not originally.

The Montana boys AVERAGE 53mph. Average. That includes thru towns @ 25mph. Down hill, 70 mph is common. These are "stock" engines.

The speed of a model T depends on its horse power & tune. So 8-55mph? up hill, depending on the grade.

His T shouldn't be so hard to crank. There is a clutch/linkage issue.

Would it be worth while to have extras made? They are superior to the pressed steel.

Interesting that the dung beetle logo is still being used.

I have found the easiest way is to pull the wheels & undo the perches from the backing plates. Takes all the tension off. Seems easier to guide the perches back into the backing plates for reassembly. Work the perches back in with a 2x4 under the spring ends & jack. Jack with a cradle or a jack on e...

I have rebuilt engine that is stiff to turn over. I was thinking about pulling the spark plugs and squirting oil in each cylinder then pulling the car around the yard to loosen up the engine. Kind of like a poor mans engine run in stand. I have rebuilt engine that is stiff to turn over. I was think...

If you are going to make it, you fit the covering to your top, then sew it together.
Bonus. Guaranteed to fit.

You would have to be lottery lucky to find one @ that price.

I had considered making one. All you need is 4 melon ballers.

Very hard to find.
One just went off on TBAY. $499 + shipping. No jewels. (they came both ways)
There was A guy reproducing them. I bit. Repop uses a sealed bearing. Need a strong wind to turn.
The original ones are a jeweled movement? takes very little to turn.

My understanding is it was used on early holly vaporizers.
Soon deemed unnecessary & discontinued.

You can remove the starter brush cover to get a sense of the brushes & commuter condition/cleanliness. Possibly spray some brake clean before running. 1) possibly. If the motor hasnt been run in 77 years, every bearing is bone dry. I would put in fresh oil. Minimum 2 quarts thru the transmission cov...

There is supposed to be a screen in that valve. Remove the bottom fitting to access/clean it. Being a repop valve, it may not be there. When you drain the valve do you get a bunch of rust flakes? I would not be so fast to pull the tank. The sediment bowl screen is designed to filter any chunks large...

Ok to sum up, installing disc brakes will force me to drive like a maniac and despite their increased stopping ability I will crash and die. Noted PLUS........The unsightly appearance will be recognized by many & greatly devalue the vehicle. Bystanders will be further convinced you have a modern ki...

The license plate bracket, taillight base with single socket are one piece.
The lense holder can is seperate. You basically need another tail light unit & will have to change the sockets in both to double sockets.
The stock light is a running light, no stop feature.

With the record of repop parts, its a good policy to suspect the spurious part first.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Sat Aug 16, 2025 1:09 pm
I have some originals - drop me a note.

There you go.

Its a garden tractor. Car chassis with a TT axle for lower gearing.
The extra transmission for additional lower gearing. It needs iron tractor wheels similar to what you have shown.
Putting T wheels to turn into a TT truck? Its way cooler as a garden tractor.

The replacement contact units are inferior IMHO. I would be lookin for a good original.
Place a wanted post and/or hunt the swap meets.

Good to hear from you Scott C.

When your shame gets the better of you, I can make room for it @ my house.

Have you checked the screen in the sediment bowl?

Model A wheels are a different bolt pattern. A goose neck carrier will need some modification.

Not me but a good friend had disc brakes. Worked wonderfully until he had small hydraulic fluid leak, discs nicely lubricated, no stopping at all. I recognise that the hobby is big enough to accommodate almost everyone, but my question is, if you want to go that fast why don't you get a Corvette? W...

Assembled with grease? White lithium?

Once it is in place. Held by the nut it won't fall out. No need to braze. Until you remove the spare rim. Quiescently, I saw a nos replacement carrier base mount last night. The stud is a fine threaded carriage bolt. The outer edges of the square of the carriage bolt are chiseled down to lock the s...

Looking for a spare tire carrier for the back of my touring after I converted to steel wheels. Haven't found any local at the swaps. Not looking for something perfect, I'm on a budget. Please let me know what you have. Thanks You need to be clearer. What kind of carrier do you have now & what kind ...

The example of the copper plated wide brush holder isn't copper plated at all! It is solid copper and was probably made by the former owner. I have yet to see an original New Day brush that used the wide style as used today. I have several also, wide, solid copper. They were not one off made. They ...

An old racer friend told me to leave room between the cap & crank throw for the crank to grow @ higher rpms.
I don't see any such clearance here.

KWTownsend wrote: ↑
Tue Aug 12, 2025 5:58 pm
My thought was to fabricate one out of a lug bolt.

That can work. Might want to weld/braze into position.

1) Maybe you heard the saying "thats a 10 gallon hill" Depends on the amount of fuel in the tank & tank location. An improved T with a cowl tank doesn't have this problem. Some pressurize the tank. Some add a fuel pump. Some carry extra gas to top off. 2) Retarding the spark is important. If you are...

There should be a demount able sized fine thread stud swedged from behind.
You'll need to make & secure that stud.

There are no bolts.
The big hole goes over the existing carrier stud.
The upper hole & notch are for a padlock.

Can you get the DS flange back far enough to check the bolt holes independent of the transmission to the 4th main? The idea is to confirm if its the 4th main off or the transmission. If the DS bolt pattern dont align, maybe a little filing of the 4th main is in order? Confirm the issue before modify...

Could it be that the ball bearing was not machined to be properly centered & square? Have you checked it with the DS mount flange for bolt pattern line up ? You can try installing, noting contact spots. Rotate 180 degrees & check. Off the same side indicates a pan misalignment. If the contact point ...

Since there dont appear to be rivets, which would have been brazed also, must been brazed only. I wouldnt assume it was repaired.
I have seen these early DS tubes cracked @ this joint.

Hi John, I absolutely love the manifold, dual carbs, vaporizer exhaust. What is that casting? Allan with all that going on you noticed the cutout? Craig. Thanks Craig. The exhaust casting is a mystery part found on tbay. Fits the hot plate pattern near perfect. no gasket. I speculated it was from a...

Right here. Have @ it. Welcome.

Your brush is worn down to where the brush holder has rubbed/scraped the contact face. That grey stuff is ground phenolic. For this to happen the brush is mounted too far out. The brush holder should not be able to contact the face. You probably have too much forward cam thrust movement & a possibly...

Do you suppose he has a girlfriend or two??

"No thief ever attempted to steal a car with a man at the wheel."
Oh, how times have changed.

OP asked to see what's "correct."
I provided a previous post with pictures of the correct carb & fuel line.

Do not use my fuel line connection as an example, It is not correct either.
The difference is, I know it.

Looks to me you have that part. Its just turned 90 degrees off & has a washer over it.

Mike S wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 07, 2025 6:08 pm
Those pictures are what are in the car right now. I just want to correct it.

I just googled the following: mtfca model t 1926 carburator linkage.
There are the correct pictures of the improved carb linkage & fuel line run.

There was not a shaft collar originally. A cotter pin, as you have on the bottom is correct. The pictured fuel line doesn't look correct either. The fuel line fittings are not correct. The heat pipe (actually an accessory automatic choke) is also incorrect. Don't use this picture if you want to be c...

The carb is pre 23. The throttle lever should be shorter. The choke lever arms should also be shorter with an offset in 1 arm to clear the choke pull rod. Fuel line routing is also wrong. Close to the manifold center. The line runs straight down from the valve & 90 degree horizontal @ the inlet level.

Sweet! Like the electric side lamps!

Hang 'em on a string and tap them with a hammer.............. My crank came from a "hill climb" motor with a BB rajo on top. So, I dont know how abused it was or if the pan was bent on that motor The crank looked new with no wear & great radius's. My mistake, I didnt magnaflux. But I did ring it. B...

Has to be a take apart plug I think. Champion X.

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