Rear Hub Reamer

[dang.1922]

I am working on a Farm Tractor Co. of Fond Du Lac Wi. conversion and I am building the rear roller sprockets ( I have one 4 roller original for a pattern). I have the rough taper machined in and would like to know if anyone makes a finish taper reamer for the bore? Thank You for any help. Dan Greger

[Billy Vrana]

Can't help you with a ream, would it be possible to turn down a hub and build from that? Or maybe call the company,

[Kevin Pharis]

The tapers are a standard 3/4” per foot taper... I’m pretty sure that is measured per side, not included. The tricky part is getting the gauge point at the right dimension from the inner face. The drive key can be a challenge too. Good luck

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

The tricky part is getting the gauge point at the right dimension from the inner face.

Drop an appropriately sized ball bearing into the taper that you're cutting. Measure how far it goes in and compare that to the same measurement in a GOOD, stock, Model T rear hub.

It's possible to make the taper on a lathe, even one that doesn't have a taper attachment. It does however take a bit of tinkering to get it "dialed in ".

[Kevin Pharis]

Drop an appropriately sized ball bearing into the taper that you're cutting. Measure how far it goes in and compare that to the same measurement in a GOOD, stock, Model T rear hub.

Absolutely right...! Best to use 2 balls of different sizes to ensure the taper is correctly sized at both ends. And this introduces yet another tricky aspect... remembering to remove the ball bearings after each measurement

[dang.1922]

Thank You All for your information, I never thought of using a ball in the tapered bore for getting the correct size, I will do just that. I turned a taper on a piece of round stock up and machined a 1/4 in. keyway in it to use as a mandrel to broach the key slot in the new sprockets. ----Dan Greger

[John Warren]

Absolutely right...! Best to use 2 balls

[Kevin Pharis]

I turned a taper on a piece of round stock up and machined a 1/4 in. keyway in it to use as a mandrel to broach the key slot in the new sprockets. ----Dan Greger

Good luck with the keyway... I started with a broach key and tapered mandrel, but found that I could not keep the assembly together while pushing the key from the small end, and the mandrel would pinch the broach key when pushing from the big end. I ended up building a fixture in my shaper to get the job done

[Farmer J]

Dan. Sounds like a job for the boys at Kramer Power Equipment Jerry K