Need Help with My Throttle Rod

[BLB27]

I am switching from a vaporizer carb to a NH carb on my 1927 coupe. I will need to move the arm on the throttle rod down about 10" to an existing hole on the rod. My problem is how to move the arm. Apparently, there is some type of "pin" holding it in place. However, the "pin" does not go completely thru the rod. I can move the arm slightly. The situation is shown in the attached photos.

I would appreciate any suggestions on how to move the arm.

A separate question: The throttle and spark rods move fine. Do I need to do anything to the steering column before reinstalling it?

[RajoRacer]

That little pin goes clean through ! Begin with a small drill about 2/3 of the way through then punch out with the same sized drift pin as the drill.

[BLB27]

As shown in the last photo, I filed the arm to try and find the other end of the pin. I assume I should continue to try to find the end or should I drill from the other end?

[RajoRacer]

Well, if you attempt to drill from the exposed pin head, you might have to "dress" it off or it could prevent you from driving it through. I've done these before and some can be a real bugger to remove. If it won't drive out just step drill it out completely.

[Allan]

I'd paint the column before installing it. Much easier out of the car.
Allan from down under.

[John.Zibell]

My question is does your block have the hole for the NH throttle rode to pass through? If not use the conversion kit available. see http://www.modeltford.com/item/6299CL.aspx

[TRDxB2]

Before you try to remove the pin you should look into the product that John mentions above. The pin was likely driven in from the end that is exposed, so it should be able to be driven out from the other side. To expose the hidden end and not distort the lever arm, I would sand the position where the end should be. Some WD40 may b needed. Use a punch to try and drive it out from the back end, if that doesn't work, drill it from that end.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I would drive the pin out from the end that shows. First, I'd grind/file the exposed end down to almost flush with the arm. That way, if the pin is peened over a bit, you remove the enlarged peened end, making it easier to drive the pin out. When preparing to drive the pin out, be sure that you have the shaft firmly supported and that you have a good quality pin punch, just a bit smaller in diameter than the pin and with a nice flat end. Just whacking away on the unsupported shaft won't get it done. It will still most likely be very tight and you may ultimately just end up drilling the pin out entirely.

[Humblej]

Bruce, you can leave the old arm where it is and add a second arm at the other location. You will not have to deal with removing that pin, and you or a future owner will be set up to switch back to a vaporizer if wanted.

[BLB27]

John, There is a hole in the block.

[RajoRacer]

There is an accessory bolt-on throttle lead available - another option ?

[BLB27]

Where would I get that?

[BLB27]

I found it. Page 99 Lang's catalog, 6297. I should have looked before I asked!

[BLB27]

The bolt on arm sure looks like the way to go! Thanks, Steve.

As I said in my original post, the spark and throttle arms move fine. Is there anything I should think about replacing on the steering column.

[JRSpada4]

While you’ve got the steering column off, now would be a good time to check the felt and brass bushing in the steering bracket that mounts to the frame.

[John Codman]

There's an old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." If everything in the steering column is working OK, I strongly recommend leaving it alone. You can/will open a bag of worms if you take it apart.

[TRDxB2]

The bolt on arm sure looks like the way to go! Thanks, Steve.

As I said in my original post, the spark and throttle arms move fine. Is there anything I should think about replacing on the steering column.

Yes think about doing "NOTHING" else. As the man said, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Taking apart the steering column requires the careful removal of several peened rivets. You already have encountered the easiest to remove. Good advice about checking the steering bracket attached to the frame. You have a '26/7 steering column - if you have the appropriate '26 bracket

[Scott_Conger]

All of these questions are excellent ones to ask PRIOR to removing paint. All they are now are multiple opportunities to pollute bare steel with oils and greases that are very difficult to remove and successfully paint over at this point.

That said, with respect to either suspension or steering components, I find it hard to believe anyone would recommend ignoring 90+ years of wear unless the car was destined to cold storage in the back room of a Museum.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

The bolt on arm sure looks like the way to go! Thanks, Steve.

As I said in my original post, the spark and throttle arms move fine. Is there anything I should think about replacing on the steering column.

Yes think about doing "NOTHING" else. As the man said, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Taking apart the steering column requires the careful removal of several peened rivets. You already have encountered the easiest to remove. Good advice about checking the steering bracket attached to the frame. You have a '26/7 steering column - if you have the appropriate '26 bracket

Who said anything about taking the whole steering column apart???

[TRDxB2]

The bolt on arm sure looks like the way to go! Thanks, Steve.

As I said in my original post, the spark and throttle arms move fine. Is there anything I should think about replacing on the steering column.

Yes think about doing "NOTHING" else. As the man said, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Taking apart the steering column requires the careful removal of several peened rivets. You already have encountered the easiest to remove. Good advice about checking the steering bracket attached to the frame. You have a '26/7 steering column - if you have the appropriate '26 bracket

Who said anything about taking the whole steering column apart???

Is this what you wanted to know?
by BLB27 » Wed Mar 09, 2022 9:06 pm
The bolt on arm sure looks like the way to go! Thanks, Steve.
As I said in my original post, the spark and throttle arms move fine. Is there anything I should think about replacing on the steering column.
by John Codman » Thu Mar 10, 2022 11:56 am
There's an old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." If everything in the steering column is working OK, I strongly recommend leaving it alone. You can/will open a bag of worms if you take it apart.

[Bill Robinson]

Rather than take the column apart to check the bushing, why not try this.....while under the car push up and down on the pitman arm or steering shaft (if the pitman arm has been removed). carefully watch for any slop at the bushing.
I suggest this because I fought with a "wandering" model T by rebuilding the front axle and still losing. I finally checked and replaced the bushing and the "wandering" went away. Life would have been much easier if I had started there first.

[speedytinc]

Rather than take the column apart to check the bushing, why not try this.....while under the car push up and down on the pitman arm or steering shaft (if the pitman arm has been removed). carefully watch for any slop at the bushing.
I suggest this because I fought with a "wandering" model T by rebuilding the front axle and still losing. I finally checked and replaced the bushing and the "wandering" went away. Life would have been much easier if I had started there first.

During our annual inspection "tours", Steering bushing wear is the first thing checked. Its as simple as having someone look down on the bracket whall another person moves the steering wheel back & forth watching for the slop in the shaft. The problem can be in the stability of the mount and/or the bushing fit.The visual inspection continues down thru the pitman arm, steering connection, tie rod & spindle arms.
A freshly rebuilt steering/front end makes for a great drive. Too many people overlook the steering bracket or piece meal the repairs & still complain about the driveability of their T.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Yes think about doing "NOTHING" else. As the man said, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Taking apart the steering column requires the careful removal of several peened rivets. You already have encountered the easiest to remove. Good advice about checking the steering bracket attached to the frame. You have a '26/7 steering column - if you have the appropriate '26 bracket

Who said anything about taking the whole steering column apart???

Is this what you wanted to know?
by BLB27 » Wed Mar 09, 2022 9:06 pm
The bolt on arm sure looks like the way to go! Thanks, Steve.
As I said in my original post, the spark and throttle arms move fine. Is there anything I should think about replacing on the steering column.
by John Codman » Thu Mar 10, 2022 11:56 am
There's an old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." If everything in the steering column is working OK, I strongly recommend leaving it alone. You can/will open a bag of worms if you take it apart.

I read that already. He doesn't mention completely disassembling the whole column, and neither does anyone else.