Crazy? tow question

[varmint]

When you are driving along at speed and then put the Model T in neutral, so that it's coasting...the engine is turning but the rear wheels still going at speed, and this does not hurt the car?

Can't we flat tow the Model T in neutral with the engine running?

[speedytinc]

Yes. & you can tow in gear with the spark plugs removed.
The point is the engine needs to keep moving/splashing oil into the bearings.

[TXGOAT2]

"Coasting" in "neutral" will do no harm, AS LONG AS THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. There's no point to it though, unless you want to go very fast down a very steep hill.... which is a very bad idea. The Model T does not have a ball bearing throw out bearing... just a little fork-like thing. I don't think it was designed to be held in "neutral" for extended periods with the engine running.

[varmint]

Purchased a 5000 lbs rated flat tow package but the 1/2" bolts were a little short. The plates of steel were warped during manufacture from welding and not pecking in the welds before cooling. A large hammer made them fit flush against a straight edge. So, picked up some longer screws and went stainless steel, also chose carriage bolts for a cleaner look. Now, the round holes needs to be broached but I would rather use the 5/16" square file to dress up the corners than do the bulk of the work on metal this thick. Doing with what I've got on hand, I trimmed a metal cutting hacksaw blade to fit in a saber saw. It worked.

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[Jerry VanOoteghem]

As Pat pointed out, the throwout bearing is not intended to hold the transmission in neutral for extended periods while the car is moving. It's not a problem when holding in neutral while the car is stopped and idling, but when the car is being towed/moving, the throwout bearing is seeing constant movement/use/pressure for many miles. I don't care how much oil is moving around, that throwout bearing will not hold up to pressure and rotation while towing for any appreciable distance. I also don't like the extended rearward thrust the throwout bearing applies to the crakshaft rear main bearing while running in neutral. If you decide to do this anyway, consider that you shouldn't tow any faster than you would normally drive the T unless you want to risk blowing up your transmission drums. So, if that's the case, what's the point of flat towing anyway?

It's just not a good idea...

[Humblej]

Flat tow with the engine running...must be a southern thing. Up north when we want to move a model T while the engine is running, we just drive it.

[Erik Johnson]

Early days of chasing down Model T Fords:

In 1952, my father assisted the late Royce D. Peterson with flat-towing a 1917 roadster from Hastings, MN to Minneapolis, a distance of over 30 miles. (Royce D.'s son Royce N. still owns the roadster - he's posted photos of it in the past.)

According to my father, they removed the sparkplugs, put some oil in the cylinders and left it in high gear.

Around that same period, my dad borrowed Royce's tow bar and flat-towed a dilapidated 1913 touring 40 miles from a farm in Waldorf, MN to St. Peter, MN where he was attending college. Same method as above. Once he got the '13 up and running, he drove it home, over 60 miles from St. Peter to Minneapolis.

[kmatt2]

A older Model T friend of mine, back when I was in my early twenties , told me that in 1955 he and his dad flat towed with the spark plugs out and the car in high gear, his first Model T, a 1920 Coupe , from Gorman at the top of the Grape Vine back to Hanford California with a early 1950’s pickup truck at around 35-40 mph . They used a tow bar and had to tie the steering wheel with the wheels pointed straight ahead but did not have any problems , the traffic was a lot lighter back in 1955. That is about 130 miles and I am guessing that they used Highway 43 along the AT & SF railroad north of Bakersfield.

[varmint]

Curious, this throw out bearing thing...and neutral...how exactly are the comments thinking that the car will be in neutral? Because I know of two ways. 1) There's holding in the clutch at a sweat spot and 2) there is the hand lever straight up.

[Scott_Conger]

People are thinking the car is being towed in neutral because that is the specific question you asked!

and, if I was in the car holding it in neutral while it was towed, there would definitely be a sweat spot...a really big one.

Well, at least it would be wet.

[varmint]

We were three blocks away when a fuse blew. It turns out that the fuse was underrated and the problem was solved. But I towed it back the three blocks via a long strap and my wife steered it. This could possibly be a reason I would want to tow it in the future and now I have a better way.

Later, we were three miles away and the freeze plug blew and did not tow it with a strap but we paid $225 for a tow truck. This could possibly be a reason I would want to tow it in the future and now I have a better way.

Scott, thanks but this is specifically what I asked:

how exactly are the comments thinking that the car will be in neutral?...

Allow me to ask it another way. Is there any difference with regards to the throwout bearing whether the trans is in neutral because of the clutch position OR hand lever straight up?

[Scott_Conger]

Can't we flat tow the Model T in neutral with the engine running?

THAT was the question you originally asked and THAT is why folks are answering with respect to "neutral"...

you have now asked ANOTHER question...

and regardless of how you ask the question, towing the car in neutral is a really bad, poor, no-good, nyet, nada, mauvaise, and otherwise generally awful idea.

You've been offered alternatives to that plan, by people who by and large know what they're doing - and since you frequent the forum, you probably have a pretty good idea of who to listen to and who to ignore...it seems as if you have chosen the "ignore" button and I cannot quite fathom why that is.

You've already decided that in the future, if needed, you're going to a: flat tow the car, and b. you're going to pull it with some improvised device used nowhere else in history that has every potential to add to the damage of your car. Honestly, I think you'll get a lot of encouragement and cheering approval from the experts on FaceBook, so you might seek encouragement there if you're not finding it here.

[Norman Kling]

It is a good idea to go down a hill in the same gear you go up. So if you have Ruckstell and the car will pull the hill in Ford high Ruckstell low, go doen the hill in the same hear. If no Ruckstell and you go up in Ford low, go down in Ford low. This will save the brake band and drum in the transmission.
Norm

[varmint]

Yes, have frequented the forum for these nine years. What can I say, I'm naive, take people at face value; I have listened to two polarized sides of this argument for a long time. I believe you, that you are telling the truth. I also believe what other are saying and consider that they are not lying to me. So, what do I do? My conclusion is that there must be some hidden knowledge that is not yet shared to explain how both can be true at the same time. The other option is that a large group of people are either mistaken or lying and they have not yet been convinced themselves that they are wrong either. Right now I am operating on the existence of hidden knowledge.

I've used this illustration decades ago (I used black, white, and grey back then.) From a distance, there is a floor, green and red portions. The green you may step on, the red you may not. Enter the brown section of floor, which is red and green mixed. Some say you may not step on the brown because it has red in it. Upon closer inspection of the brown, you find that there is no brown, just tiles of red and green next to each other. I believe there is some hidden knowledge in this brown (grey) area.

[brendan.hoban]

I purchased my first T from two teachers in Ballarat. They had brought the car from a local farmer who delivered it using a Y bar to the front axel.

They could start the engine but couldn't get it to move and admitted this to me at the time. "It just stood there and shook but wouldn't go."

I trailered it home and restored the keys to the back axles, it drove just fine for me!

[PorkChops]

So, assuming you have survived crossing the multi-coloured floor, is the consensus that if the engine won’t run, then the preferred way to tow is with the hand-brake lever forward and clutch engaged, with the spark plugs removed?

(Presumably, if the engine will run and the car is in a condition to be towed anyway, then as Humblej said above, it seems to make sense just to drive it.)

[varmint]

Here is my improvised device that I bought a week ago:

Reese tow bar.jpg (11.77 KiB) Viewed 1359 times

It does not include the required chains but I found the U-bolts, hooks, and chains at a Tractor Supply store. The included instructions state that if the supplied 1/2" bolts are not long enough, that they can be replaced. I replaced them.

Brendan, Are you saying that the farmer flat towed the vehicle with the spark plugs in place and that resulted in the keys sheering all the way through?

farmer who delivered it using a Y bar

Last month, I came upon a traffic signal that turned red at the worst time in a 35mph zone. I could not stop the T quick enough with the foot brake. So, I reached for the hand lever and screeched the car to a stop. But, I'm told that I am not supposed to stop the T with the e-brake. Across metro where I need to go is 15 miles of either 1) stop lights or 2) the I-10 Interstate. This could possibly be a reason I would want to tow it in the future and now I have a better way. Even if I could afford a tandem flatbed trailer, the speed should be limited to protect the external visor and vinyl top.

[Scott_Conger]

The "hidden knowledge" is that people who have flat towed a T either put it in gear and removed the plugs and drove very slowly so as to not skid the rear tires while attempting to get the heavy transmission/engine up to speed with the drive line, OR they had an auxiliary transmission that had a neutral which will fully disconnect the driveshaft from the transmission.

Any expert who has suggested you tow in "neutral" (which does not truly exist in a "T") either is totally ignorant of how a "T" transmission functions or simply has evil intentions. Either way, those folks are doing you no favors.

With the "T" in "neutral", the main portion of the transmission will not rotate and thus will sling no oil. The brake drum will be spinning with the drive shaft, will be totally unlubricated and now the brake/backingplate bushings will be spinning totally dry, the throw-out bearing will be running totally dry, the clutch plates will be running totally dry, and with enough time, things will pretty much seize up. And it won't be much time.

When people say "well, Royce's dad did thus-and-so, towing a T", understand that Royce's dad KNEW how to flat tow a T because he was a T-trained mechanic from the day they were still on the road - and you can darn sure bet it wasn't in "neutral".

Finally, with an improved "T" restored and in fresh condition, you have lined parking brake shoes and if someone says never use parking brake in an emergency they damn sure don't know what they're talking about. It's very bad practice to use it all the time, but if faced with a certain emergency, there is no harm or shame in grabbing the handle. BTW, you will learn very soon that you drive a "T with your eyes FAR down the road and plan your traffic lights. Cars and stupid people will still surprise you but a functioning traffic light really shouldn't (there's never been one that failed to go "RED" on a very regular and predictable basis yet)

[TXGOAT2]

To further flog the horse:
I would not flat tow a T unless in an extreme emergency. The only correct way to flat tow a Model T is to remove the spark plugs and put the lever all the way forward. If you tow with a tow bar, Do NOT back up!
The model T transmission has no neutral, unlike most transmissions. "Neutral" is obtained in the T by holding the clutch out of engagement, either with the foot pedal or the hand lever. Both methods do the same thing, which is to hold the clutch spring back from pressing on the clutch discs. Since the clutch driven side turns whenever the car is moving and the clutch linkage is not, a bearing has to be provided. On a Model T, this is a bronze fork that engages a groove. It is not intended for continuous duty. It is normally not under any pressure when the car is running. It is under considerable pressure whenever the clutch is disengaged, which is normally not for any extended period of time, and normally the engine would be running during that time and circulating oil to moving parts. When towing the car with the engine stopped, no oil is being circulated, which exposes the transmission parts AND the throwout fork to lack of lubrication if the car is towed with the clutch held out of engagement. The solution is to tow the car, if you must flat tow it, with the spark plugs out and the lever forward, and never try to back up when flat towing a T.....
Another problem with flat towing a Model T is that there is a possibility of the front wheels turning all the way to the left or right, which would be problematical. If you were to back up a T being flat towed, the front wheels would most likely slam all the way to the left or right extreme and remain there, which could cause a lot of problems.

[TXGOAT2]

It is not a good practice to hold any automotive clutch out of engagement any longer than necessary. Throwout bearings have limited lubrication and are hard to access, and the less time you spend with your foot on the clutch pedal the better.
With the exception of certain industrial clutches, such as the Twin Disc units, the throwout bearings are a limited duty cycle item.

[TXGOAT2]

If you have a bad engine bearing, seized engine, or serious transmission or rear axle issue, there is no good way to flat tow a Model T. It might be possible to use one of the rental tow dollies under the rear wheels, but if you do that, make sure the steering wheel is securely tied, and I mean SECURELY, and keep speeds low.

[speedytinc]

If you have a bad engine bearing, seized engine, or serious transmission or rear axle issue, there is no good way to flat tow a Model T. It might be possible to use one of the rental tow dollies under the rear wheels, but if you do that, make sure the steering wheel is securely tied, and I mean SECURELY, and keep speeds low.

You cant tow a T backwards on a dolly either. That will tighten & lock the front outer bearings, destroying the hubs.
There are many ways to further damage your T towing it.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Probably 50 years ago, my dad and I took off on a short trip in our '25 Touring. We came to a stop sign, dad stopped the car with no issues, he then pushed in the clutch and... nothing. The car wouldn't move. He got a ride back home, picked up his clamp-on tow bar, (complete with steering attachment), and flat towed it home. He figured no problem, since the rear end obviously had no connection to the transmission. When we got home, he noticed a nice big hole on the side of the rear axle housing, where the pinion gear exited. Turns out that the pinion gear had split in half and sometime during the tow, a hunk of it got lodged between "this & that" and got pushed through the housing. A flat towing story... fwiw.

[speedytinc]

Flat towing in neutral.
Scott is right on about the bushings running dry, & quickley. The most @ risk bushings are that of the triple gears. The gears will be spinning very fast, faster than normal @ tow speeds & likely seize up first. Melt the pins, possibly shear. Steel clutch disks still have friction & will be dry quickly. They get hot, blue & try to fuse together. That $225 tow looks like a great deal now!
The flywheel MUST be spinning to keep these bushings lubricated. Towed with the plugs out works. (if there are no internal motor issues)

It is possible to seize triple gears in neutral, reverse or low gear with the engine running, if tight, as in a fresh rebuild. Those 3 conditions involve the triple gears. High does not. For this reason I encourage fresh motor startups to run a while in high gear with a wheel off the ground for some break in & well lubricate inner bushings.

Those that suggest towing in neutral dont understand how a T planetary transmission works. There is no real "clutch" as in later automobiles.
" I towed my xxxxx that way with no problems"

[TXGOAT2]

Looks like a tilt trailer or ramp trailer would be needed if you have driveline issues. All the more reason to park your T legally and make every reasonable effort to avoid trouble on the road.
Many later model automatic transmission vehicles have restrictions on towing with the wheels on the ground, and modern vehicles have no real bumpers, either. That includes most pickups.

[TXGOAT2]

I thought the triple gears stayed still with all the bands released, such as when running in high, or towing in high. (?)

[speedytinc]

I thought the triple gears stayed still with all the bands released, such as when running in high, or towing in high. (?)

True.
In high gear the triple gears are moving fixed on the flywheel, with the flywheel, not individually spinning as in engaged.

[TXGOAT2]

I'd want to use a lightweight, high grade oil with new triple gear bushings, and avoid running hard, fast, or far in low or reverse. A light bodied oil would have the best chance of reaching the triple gear bushings, and letting the engine warm up in cool weather before using low or reverse would be wise. I'd think a dragging band could cause the triple gears to spin very fast, even in high gear.

[brendan.hoban]

The farmer removed the keys so the wheels would turn on the axels without turning the tail shaft or the drums in the transmission. The nuts were pinned but not tight.

It was a way of towing Ts in the old days without causing problems.

[TXGOAT2]

I wouldn't go far or fast doing that, and I'd grease the axles and hubs beforehand. I'm guessing that farmer pulled his T with a mule.

An "emergency axle" accessory was once available. It clamped to the axle housing and provided a spindle to put the wheel on.

[varmint]

Thanks! Great info guys! OK no neutral tow.

I imagine if that keyway on the wheel hub ever caught the keyway on the axle, it would cause problems.
And with the contact surface being tapered, there is an outward force against the nut, slowly grinding it away.

John,

It is possible to seize triple gears in neutral, reverse or low gear with the engine running

Forget towing...does this mean that just plain driving the Model T, coasting along in neutral, will damage the transmission?

[Humblej]

"...does this mean that just plain driving the Model T, coasting along in neutral, will damage the transmission?"

Not in Louisiana, I don't think you will be coasting 100 yards.

[speedytinc]

Thanks! Great info guys! OK no neutral tow.

I imagine if that keyway on the wheel hub ever caught the keyway on the axle, it would cause problems.
And with the contact surface being tapered, there is an outward force against the nut, slowly grinding it away.

John,

It is possible to seize triple gears in neutral, reverse or low gear with the engine running

Forget towing...does this mean that just plain driving the Model T, coasting along in neutral, will damage the transmission?

No. As long as the engine is running, slinging oil @ idle speed.

[DanTreace]

Been following this thread to the end, just can’t help but post this earlier thread on towing disasters to the T motor, the pictures will convince you such flat towing on all fours with a stock T , with or without the engine running, isn’t without risk of damage.



https://share.google/65bnrmv3GcsUuDcNv

[TXGOAT2]

Coasting in "neutral" for short distances with the engine running won't do any harm, but it is not a good idea. It's best to leave the car in high once underway to minimize wear on the clutch throwout fork and to have engine braking available and to assure proper lubrication for the engine AND the transmission. The Model T has no actual neutral, so it's best to avoid running the car in "neutral" more than is necessary, such as when starting or warming the engine up in cold weather or driving in stop and go traffic. A Model T running on modern gasoline with an intake air heat pipe and the proper type motor oil should not require a long warmup period in cold weather. A couple of minutes of warmup at 700 RPM or so ought to be enough to get moving in cold weather. A Model T that is running as it should can go very slowly in high gear, making most gear shifting, clutch slipping, coasting, etc unnecessary.

[Jevil]

With that thread another question comes into my mind.
If towing is not preferable - what if the road service wants to crane a T on a tow truck?
I think the typical lift points (rims) are not the best idea for wire wheels, aren't they?

[Humblej]

Ye Gads! It is OK to pull a Model T a short distance by taking precautions as already stated many times in this posting. It is OK to pull a Model T onto a flat bed tow truck or push it off the road or move it around your garage without taking the plugs out and putting it in gear. Lifting a model T by a crane...no, don't lift it onto a tow truck by a crane. There are no lift points on a Model T that will allow you to lift with a crane without causing damage to something. If a tow truck shows up with a crane refuse the lift.

[TXGOAT2]

I think it is a good idea to emphasize the various specific hazards involved in flat towing a Model T, and to explain the facts behind those hazards. They are not obvious, but they are VERY real. It's a good idea to keep your Model T, or any other vehicle, in good running order to prevent trouble out on the road. You're not likely to find a towing/recovery service operator today that has a clue as to the requirements for handling a Model T.

[varmint]

It' story time...
I used to live in Charlottesville, VA at the foot hills of the Appalachian Mountains and US 250 crossed over them, Afton Mt., into Waynesboro, a very steep climb. 50 years ago, my great uncle Marvin told a story of back in the day before that; he would challenge a young buck to a race up the mountain and they were off. The young guy would leave him behind but after a while Uncle Marvin would continue at a slow pace and catch up to him, who was parked on the side of the road overheating. I have driven up and down this road in low gear and usually smelt the brakes of the car in front of me because they did not use a lower gear. But it was too dangerous in neutral.
In the early 70's Interstate 64 came through the same Afton mountain gap along the side of the mountain. It was a 5-1/2 mile gradual slope. We had a '68 Rebel Rambler with manual brakes and steering and would turn off the engine at the top of the mountain and coast in neutral at 60mph all the way down. I drove a '73 Newport with power brakes and steering in neutral, but engine idling down the same way. Then a '73 Ford Ranger and a '79 Honda Civic, same deal.

Jeff, there are bridges in New Orleans metro and I have on a few occasions, crawled up them, and then coasted down in neutral at least 100 yards or more. If this is bad for the Model T, then I never knew. I await a flogging.

[TXGOAT2]

I know of no good reason to "coast" in a Model T, and there are a number of good reasons not to.
People who smoke brakes on steep downhill runs either don't know what they're doing, or they don't care.

The Model T has no actual neutral, and brakes are minimal at best. What is the purpose of coasting in a Model T?

[DHort]

I find it easier to get AAA. Then all my cars are covered. Even though my kids do not live with us, they are still covered. Towing for up to 100 miles, and most tow drivers will ask you how to tie the car down and how slow would you like me to go. Worth the cost.

[TXGOAT2]

I would not expect a tow/recovery driver today to know the peculiar requirements of safely loading and moving a Model T.

[TXGOAT2]

Not mentioned in this thread is the possibility of wind damage to a Model T that is towed or trailered at today's typical road speeds

[DaveBarker]

Since the first days that I got my T on the road (2013), I've had an AAA membership. For a pretty reasonable annual fee (less than what Varmint paid for his three-mile tow), I have 100 mile towing coverage (and many other benefits) for all of my vehicles. Not an ad for AAA, but I have the peace of mind that if I break down, my towing is covered with a phone call. The one time I did need a tow, they showed up with a flatbed and winched it up and on, no problems. Eliminates the necessity of attempting to flat-tow my Speedster. Well worth it for me, just sayin'...

[varmint]

Even if I could afford a tandem flatbed trailer, the speed should be limited to protect the external visor and vinyl top.

Not mentioned in this thread is the possibility of wind damage to a Model T that is towed or trailered at today's typical road speeds

I've been looking for one...even if it's just a flatbed that can be modified for a front side wind breaker.

[TXGOAT2]

I stand corrected.

[varmint]

Now I'm a little upset with Henry! In the Ford Manual, "The Car and It's Operation", he 1) states clearly that there is a neutral, 2) he sold 15 million cars to the public, and 3) he did not warn any of those 15 million about using neutral, that I can find in the manual.

[TXGOAT2]

There is no neutral in the Ford T transmission. To allow the engine to run with the car stopped, or to move it without the engine turning, it is necessary to disengage the clutch and keep it disengaged. If the car is towed or coasted for more than a short distance with the wheels on the ground and the engine NOT revolving, the transmission and clutch will be damaged or destroyed due to lack of lubrication. "Coasting" in a Model T, more especially with the engine stopped, is not a good idea for several reasons, as explained above. In most all other cars, the transmission has a actual neutral, in which the gears can be arranged so that no power is transmitted. In most all other cars, the clutch is placed between the engine and the transmission. In the Model T, the clutch is located behind the transmission. In the Model T, unlike many other vehicles, both the engine and transmission and wet clutch depend on the engine turning for lubrication.

[TXGOAT2]

"THE CLUTCH IS IN NEUTRAL"
The clutch, NOT the transmission!!!! This is significant!

[Humblej]

Vernon.
Perhaps in this computer age with the proliferation of Tic Toc, Facebook, etc., you misunderstand what the MTFCA Forum is all about. There are people here who are expert professional engine and transmission rebuilders, people here who have been driving and maintaining Model T's for over 50 years, people who manufacture and supply new parts to the vendors, people who are Model T event judges, and people who drive the snot out of their Model T's. This is the largest collection of Model T experts you will ever have the opportunity to ask and receive help and knowledge. They are also members of the MTFCA who are supporting this forum with their dues. This forum is available to anyone anywhere and for free. It is THE place to get any problem or question answered and explained by an expert in the field, but for it to work you need to take the cotton out of your ears and put it in your mouth.

[varmint]

Thank-you guys for the information, and thanks for clarifying...

The clutch, NOT the transmission!!

I am actually listening to the experts and not just hearing, like a doofus main character in a movie who has to work his way out of a situation. He hears the knowledgeable, warn of the pitfalls around him; and follows the advise of the experts, to reach safety. I hope those in the future, follow this wisdom which is not found in any books that I can see. AAA sounds like a good idea. I've never had tic tok nor faceplant. I still have some leads on a tandem trailer. I pay my dues in this club, not because of the museum nor for the magazine, but for the forum.

[JTT3]

____________________________________________________

[Chris Barker]

As far as I can see, those people giving the understandable warnings about the clutch release bearing not liking prolonged 'neutral' seem to have forgotten that the same applies when driving in low gear, and in hilly country we can have extended periods in 'low' (ascending and descending).
So towing for maybe a mile with engine running in neutral is probably not going to do a lot of harm.

[Matt in California]

I appreciate the comments here! It is always humbling to realize how little I know. I never took in consideration the wear on the throwout bearing when coasting in neutral. Many times I will coast toward a stop for much longer than needed thinking it was like a modern neutral. I am now reconsidering how I should drive. I know a short distance slowly moving is a lot different than doing this all the time at full speed as I am coming up to a stop.

Matt

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I appreciate the comments here! It is always humbling to realize how little I know. I never took in consideration the wear on the throwout bearing when coasting in neutral. Many times I will coast toward a stop for much longer than needed thinking it was like a modern neutral. I am now reconsidering how I should drive. I know a short distance slowly moving is a lot different than doing this all the time at full speed as I am coming up to a stop.

Matt

This has all gotten very silly and blown way out of proportion. You driving style seems perfectly fine, unless your coasting miles at highway speeds.

[DanTreace]

For the ultimate in Ford free-wheeling in 'neutral' just install this amazing device.

Claimed aid in driving satisfaction and saving on gas too!

Free wheeling clutch04738.jpeg (46.59 KiB) Viewed 383 times

Free wheeling clutch.jpeg (31.8 KiB) Viewed 383 times

Do away with the old sticky Ford discs in that clutch drum!

[big2bird]

I agree with Jerry.

In a parade, you pull the brake levers to neutral, and pump low all day. As long as that washing machine is churning, oil is everywhere.

These cars were not driven with kid gloves. I only ever saw one bronze yoke worn badly. It could have had a gazillion miles, and still worked.

Tow it in gear with plugs out.

[TXGOAT2]

The correct way to approach a stop is to back off the throttle and let the engine do most of the braking. Keeping engine idle speed as low as is practical will improve engine braking. There are good reasons NOT to "coast" in a Model T. It's not a good thing to do in any car.

[varmint]

CARE OF THE TRANSMISSION
Do not let your motor run in neutral any longer than necessary as this tends to wear out the bushings between the transmission drum sleeves.

Found the source above in "A MODEL T FORD SERVICE COURSE".

So, plugs removed, lever in high, possibly a cap oil down on top of the cylinders, and drive slow.
I'm guessing that the accessory screen oil filter helps in this situation just like in normal driving.

[Scott_Conger]

59 posts and a FORD service course later...

[TXGOAT2]

If you put oil in the cylinders and pull the car with the engine turning and the plugs out, oil will spray everywhere. The engine will self-oil as long as it is turning at anything near idle speed or more. With no compression or combustion heat or pressure, the pistons will get plenty of oil if the car is moving at 5 MPH or more, assuming there is oil in the pan.

[TXGOAT2]

The screen should function any time the engine is turning.

[Rich P. Bingham]

59 posts and a FORD service course later...

For a simple answer - DON’T DO IT !!

[TXGOAT2]

Some points need to be belabored.

[perry kete]

It just takes a wheelbarrow and some friends to move your Model T !

[DanTreace]

So, plugs removed, lever in high, possibly a cap oil down on top of the cylinders, and drive slow.
I'm guessing that the accessory screen oil filter helps in this situation just like in normal driving.

That is the Ford Service Bulletin, 1920, recommendation too, with some added oil to have the brake drum edge submerged.

[TXGOAT2]

They don't say how much additional oil over the normal full level would be required to submerge the lower part of the brake drum. Leakage might be a real nuisance....
Looking at a ghost view of the engine and transmission, it looks like the oil level would need to be at or just above the lower 2 bolts at the fourth main with the car on a level surface.
There should be no need to put oil in the engine cylinders if there is plenty of oil in the pan and the engine is turning.

[Erik Johnson]

RE: Oil in the cylinders

When I posted eight days ago that my father and Royce Peterson put oil in the cylinders, I assumed that folks would understand that meant just a couple squirts each with an oil can which is something you typically do when an antique car hasn't been run in a number of years (in this case, the car probably hadn't been run in twenty years).

My father turned 94 years old yesterday and has a mind like a steel trap. I'm seeing him again on Sunday so I will verify with him that it indeed was just a couple of squirts in each cylinder.

[TXGOAT2]

I put oil in the cylinders of a Ford V8 that had sat for years. I came back a week later with a battery and put it in the car and hit the starter, plugs out. The motor turned and oil shot over 30 feet and splattered over a tin shed. The underhood area got a very good oiling, too.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I put oil in the cylinders of a Ford V8 that had sat for years. I came back a week later with a battery and put it in the car and hit the starter, plugs out. The motor turned and oil shot over 30 feet and splattered over a tin shed. The underhood area got a very good oiling, too.

Do you think you used too much?

[TXGOAT2]

I figured it had leaked down into the crankcase. At least some of it didn't.