Give me a Brake

[Rich Eagle]

I put large drum brakes (26-27) on my ’25 Tudor for safety when I built it around 2000. My intension was better braking than the small drum brakes. Adjusting the brakes to lock the wheels when engaged resulted in them dragging when released. I had not checked the shoes for roundness when I relined them. This resulted in premature wear in certain portions of the lining and I didn’t keep them adjusted very tight resulting in creeping forward when starting the car. After 20 some years of driving I needed to make shorter brake rods.
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... 36#p228462
In addition, I found the play from worn clevis holes accumulated to 1/8”. Shims are hardly the best solution but that was my choice for now.

I also discovered that the floorboard was stopping the brake handle from making its full travel of disengagement. Filing the hole a bit longer solved this problem. I trimmed the carpet to match.

Now, with the brake lining worn more round, the shorter rods and the hole in floorboard enlarged I can achieve locked brakes before the handle meets the seat and no drag in the released position.

While the floorboards were out it was a good time to address a reverse pedal problem I was having. The pedal would sometimes stick in the engaged position and not release without pulling it back with my foot. Due to the cam action it was contacting the floorboard trim plate in the engaged position. By clamping a plate firmly to the floorboard I could tap it closer and give the pedal more clearance. Previously I had been putting grease on it to keep it from binding.

[Rich Eagle]

I took pictures of the toasted floorboard and carpet. They don’t get hot enough to burn but have a nice brown from the heat duct.

Having the rear wheels off gave me a chance to thoroughly clean them and the underside of the fenders. These were painted with Dulux Super Black 22 years ago. I believe it has held up well. It has been driven in Winter and subjected to the de-icing agents. I used no hardener so it is a little subject to scratching when washing. No wax has been applied. I wish Dulux was still available.
Included is a photo of the axle seal where the shim or the key has worn some rubber away. It still seals most of the grease/oil in.

[RajoRacer]

Oversize clevis pins are available Rich.

[Rich Eagle]

I have custom made clevis pins to fit the holes individually and may do so for this one. I have also welded and brazed the holes and drilled to the right size also. The shims work and probably were use often back in the day but shims wear and work out of place easily.
It's just my choice for now.
Thanks
Rich

[Rich P. Bingham]

I find making "refined" adjustments like this very rewarding ! Lots of fun, and suits my current energy level !!

Thanks for showing us, Rich ! It's always a treat to see your craftsmanship.

[George House]

Excellent bit of diagnosis Rich ! Thanks for talking us through your conceptualization with accompanying pictures. I’ll bet there’s not a ‘heat duct’ on a model T anywhere in Texas it’s 103* here today

[Rich Eagle]

103° George? I think we hit 92° and the T was boiling after some errands. Of course it's a dry heat except under the radiator.
I would like to get on to some other projects but keep finding things to tweak on this Tudor. It is almost like new again and should run another 20 years without much attention. The new bands need readjusting after leaving them a bit loose for break in and then some short runs.
Thanks for the comments.

[TXGOAT2]

I find that new brake shoes often don't fit used drums very well. I think that shops used to have equipment to "arc grind" new or re-lined shoes so that they fit the actual diameter of the worn or re-machined brake drum they were being installed in . That gave a full lining contact and allowed the new brakes to function properly from the start and to hold an adjustment much better.