So I know that the 1926/7 Touring cars are the easiest to install the interior wood. I found that the numbers can get a little confusing so I hope this helps others. First not all touring cars are the same. Some use less wood than others at the top of the side panels and instead of wood they have a metal lip that the top of the panel tucks into. Let's get started.
First we need a picture of the wood.
This is from Ford Wood. I used their numbers. They are great to work with.
Now for all the parts that come in a kit.
1926 -1927 Touring Body Wood
601/Tackstrip/Front (Synthetic tack strip, better than wood.)
603/Latch Pillar/Driv
604/latch Pillar/Pass
605/Hinge Pillar/Driv
606/Hinge Pillar/Pass
651/Tackstrip/Rear (Synthetic tack strip, better than wood.)
652/Seat Back Assembly/Rear
653/Side Rail/Driv. Rear
654/Side Rail/Pass. Rear
655/Side Rail/Driv. Front
656/Side Rail/Pass.Front
659/Dog Leg Strip Rear/Driv
660/Dog Leg Strip Rear/Pass
661/Seat Board/Rear
662/Seat Board/Front
663/Seat Bottom Strip/Front
664/Floor Support/Rear
668/Panel Strip Front/Pass
669/Panel Strip Front/Driv
670/Cowl Tack Board/Pass
671/Cowl Tack Board/Driv
672/Panel Strip Rear/Pass
673/Panel Strip Rear/Driv
674/Latch Pillar Rear/Pass
675/Latch Pillar Rear/Driv
1926/7 Touring Interior Wood By The Numbers
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: 1926/7 Touring Interior Wood By The Numbers
Now let's see where it all goes.
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: 1926/7 Touring Interior Wood By The Numbers
Now the back.
Now you will have to sand, file, shape and make the new wood fit the old body. But don't worry you'll never see it. I also stained the wood with Deck stain to protect it from water. The plastic tack strips are molded in with a heat gun.
Now you will have to sand, file, shape and make the new wood fit the old body. But don't worry you'll never see it. I also stained the wood with Deck stain to protect it from water. The plastic tack strips are molded in with a heat gun.
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- Posts: 1241
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:01 am
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Nunn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Runabout
- Location: Bennington, NE
- Board Member Since: 2017
Re: 1926/7 Touring Interior Wood By The Numbers
Robert, did the 662 seat spring support board come with notches at ends to clear the metal frame? The Fordwood drawing looks like there are no notches. I made a board for my Runabout and I notched it to make the top of the board flush with the top of the seat frame.
My car also did not have the 605 and 606 boards. I made them but have not installed them yet. I don't think I have the geometry correct. The metal flanges that 605 and 606 fasten hold the kick panels about 3/16" away from the body flange. If I install the kick panels, there is a gap between them and the body where I can clearly see the wood blocks. The bottoms of the flanges (see the yellow arrow below) also curves outward and makes the kick panels stick out there. I was thinking of beveling the face of 605 and 606 to let upholstery nails bend kick panels to meet the body flange. But, there would still be a gap at the bottom due to the curved flanges.
My car also did not have the 605 and 606 boards. I made them but have not installed them yet. I don't think I have the geometry correct. The metal flanges that 605 and 606 fasten hold the kick panels about 3/16" away from the body flange. If I install the kick panels, there is a gap between them and the body where I can clearly see the wood blocks. The bottoms of the flanges (see the yellow arrow below) also curves outward and makes the kick panels stick out there. I was thinking of beveling the face of 605 and 606 to let upholstery nails bend kick panels to meet the body flange. But, there would still be a gap at the bottom due to the curved flanges.
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Topic author - Posts: 1152
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: 1926/7 Touring Interior Wood By The Numbers
Mark,
Yes there are notches on 662 to support the seat spring. I had to cut mine a little more to make the board flush with the top of the frame. As for the other ones that you made I'd just sand them down to fit. I had to do a lot of sanding and filing to get everything to fit. I bet when I start to put the interior in I'll have to adjust some more. I can only imaging how much these care have been through over the years. Seems like everything has to be custom fit. I should have paid more attention in wood class. Ha!!
Yes there are notches on 662 to support the seat spring. I had to cut mine a little more to make the board flush with the top of the frame. As for the other ones that you made I'd just sand them down to fit. I had to do a lot of sanding and filing to get everything to fit. I bet when I start to put the interior in I'll have to adjust some more. I can only imaging how much these care have been through over the years. Seems like everything has to be custom fit. I should have paid more attention in wood class. Ha!!