Clutch Push Plate Pins

[ernieh247]

While I was at the Winter Clinic Dave Nolting evaluated my transmission parts and made a recommendation that I replace the drive plate because the rivets are loose and the holes that the push plate pins protrude through are wallowed out. I respect his opinion and will probably replace the drive plate as recommended but I have a question about the push plate pins. Has anyone ever tried to remove them and replace them with larger pins that would fill the wallowed out holes? The pins appear to be either pressed in or threaded into the push plate. Just curious if that is an option.
Thanks

[ernieh247]

I forgot to mention this is a 1925 transmission. I tried to attach a picture but i it didn't attach. I will try again.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Your drive plate two strikes against it, #1.) loose rivets, (a serious issue), and #2) The wallowed out push plate holes.

I would follow Dave's advice and source a better drive plate.

[speedytinc]

Pins do press out. 26-7 push ring pins are tapered smaller where they go thru the drive plate. Cant be for sure, but it looks like you have the later taper pinned ring. The earlier style pins are straight sided. A trick with a worn 26-7 plate is to use the earlier push ring. I see no problem with making larger diameter replacement pins to use in worn holes re-drilled round.
If the output shaft bearing surface is still good & the finger pivots tight, I would re-rivet. I like welding 3 or 4 beads to hold the drive plate to the shaft in addition. Of course, you would need to square up the drive plate face & O.D. But this is something I do to EVERY drive plate anyway. They all tend to be a bit warped & its squareness must be perfect for no assembled run out.
Good, Usable/savable drive plates are not that easy to come by.

[ernieh247]

Thank You John,
That answers my question. This gives me options to consider.

[Dan Hatch]

Check the plate for cracks. More than half of the plates I have checked are cracked. That is why they are loose.

[ernieh247]

will do, thanks

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Thank You John,
That answers my question. This gives me options to consider.

Yes, you have options. Please pick the best and safest one, even if it means you have to spend a few bucks.

[ernieh247]

Thanks Jerry, I will. Part of the reason I got into this hobby was to learn new things. Taking things apart, listening to others experience, trying different approaches is all part of the learning process for me. Even when I make mistakes I learn things. I appreciate everyone's input!

[ernieh247]

Thanks Dan,
I sprayed some carb cleaner on the bottom and brushed it and found a crack between two of the rivets. Good information!!

[Dan Hatch]

Good ones are getting harder to find.
New are being made, Dave has the connection.

[Joe Bell]

On the loose pins, I have went to the earlier style ring since the have larger pins, you need to drill out the plate for the larger holes, but loose rivets, find another one if you rerivet it it will be out of round to run in your fourth main.

[Mark Gregush]

Good ones are getting harder to find.
New are being made, Dave has the connection.

Mine have all the issues shown above, in fact most all of the drive plates I have, have issues including loose rivets, rusted tail shafts, elongated holes, buggerard up rivet holes in both the plate and tail shaft.
My plan was to rivet back on the best tail shaft using the oversized rivets to the best 26/27 drive plate so I could use the 26/27 drum. With the amount of driving I see in the future, not sure how much what Joe talks about would be a big worry if I clean up where the 4th would ride.
But! If new drive plates are being made, might reconsider the direction I am currently heading it. Do we need to contact Dave directly as I have not seen any ads about these new drive plates?
Only my opinion but the 26/27 drive plates seem to be the worse culprits for loose rivets and banged up pin holes. Well except for the one I took out of my 25 it was really abused in the past; those holes are huge!

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

With the amount of driving I see in the future, not sure how much what Joe talks about would be a big worry if I clean up where the 4th would ride.

I would leave that bearing area alone and instead locate on that diameter, then take a skim/truing cut on the drive plate mating face, to assure that it's perpendicular to the output shaft.

Dave N. and I briefly discussed the new drive plates at Hershey last year. I would think contacting him directly would get you pointed in the right direction.

[speedytinc]

I would leave that bearing area alone and instead locate on that diameter, then take a skim/truing cut on the drive plate mating face, to assure that it's perpendicular to the output shaft.

After truing the drive plate, chuck the drive plate. The bearing surface will run true if you did it right.
Now clean up the bearing surface with a tool post grinder.
Drive plates are restoreable if the output shaft is not excessively pitted & the square drive is good & If you have a lathe & the desire.
Don't forget to true up the mating brake drum surfaces.

[Dan Hatch]

Here is a link to a post years ago from Herm on transmission rebuild. Miss his knowledge.
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=1019

Bookmark it.

[TXGOAT2]

If you re-drill the holes, make sure they are re-drilled on the original centers.

[TRDxB2]

While I was at the Winter Clinic Dave Nolting evaluated my transmission parts and made a recommendation that I replace the drive plate because the rivets are loose and the holes that the push plate pins protrude through are wallowed out. I respect his opinion and will probably replace the drive plate as recommended but I have a question about the push plate pins. Has anyone ever tried to remove them and replace them with larger pins that would fill the wallowed out holes? The pins appear to be either pressed in or threaded into the push plate. Just curious if that is an option.
Thanks

Here's one that may still be for sale at Chaffins viewtopic.php?t=45118
NOW $100 with free domestic shipping. Mark Chaffin (951) 805-0928
effortless fix

[ernieh247]

Here is the contact information Dave gave me to purchase a new drive plate.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Interesting. The output shaft and drive plate appear to be integral. No messy rivets to be concerned about.

[Dan Hatch]

Jerry: The ones I have seen are just like the original. They need the 3 levers installed.
Very nice looking job.

[Mark Gregush]

Jerry: The ones I have seen are just like the original. They need the 3 levers installed.
Very nice looking job.

Think what was being said is the tail shaft was made part of the drive plate, so only one piece.
Sorry, but at that price I am out.

Just got the last cap poured was getting ready to pour one more rear for a backup. Found a quick way to cool babbitt! Hit the handle of the melting pot when I turned around! Missed me but not the floor and everything on it!

Good advice on what to do re trueing it up. Time to break out the tool post grinder and see if it will reach where I need it.

[Dan Hatch]

Not one piece, two piece just like original.

[Pep C Strebeck]

Posted on wrong thread