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Topic author
KrazyFam
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2020 8:45 pm
- First Name: Karl
- Last Name: Frederick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Runabout
- Location: Spokane
- Board Member Since: 2020
Post
by KrazyFam » Thu Dec 10, 2020 8:39 pm
In the middle of a complete restoration of a 23T and dropped approx 45 pieces off to be sandblasted with instructions to stay away from joint areas. Rookie mistake
The question now is what can be done about the joints on the Front Spring Perch, etc. (pictured below) to salvage? I lightly polished a couple of them and as one would expect, they have imperfections, small pitting, etc. and I can't imagine they will ever smooth out totally. He also blasted the inside joints to several pieces as well.
Am I overthinking this? Will a light polish and lots of lube when reassembling be good enough?
Thanks
Karl
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Dan Hatch
- Posts: 5022
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:31 pm
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Hatch
- Location: Alabama
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by Dan Hatch » Thu Dec 10, 2020 8:43 pm
If you are talking about the bushings, just replace them. If you “polish “ them they will be oversized, if they aren’t already from the blasting. Dan
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Topic author
KrazyFam
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2020 8:45 pm
- First Name: Karl
- Last Name: Frederick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Runabout
- Location: Spokane
- Board Member Since: 2020
Post
by KrazyFam » Thu Dec 10, 2020 8:58 pm
Dan Hatch wrote: ↑Thu Dec 10, 2020 8:43 pm
If you are talking about the bushings, just replace them. If you “polish “ them they will be oversized, if they aren’t already from the blasting. Dan
Dan
Good point on the bushings. What's your thoughts on the neck portion which was sandblasted to a rough finish?
Karl
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jiminbartow
- Posts: 2434
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
- First Name: James
- Last Name: Patrick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
- Location: Bartow, FL
- Board Member Since: 2001
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by jiminbartow » Thu Dec 10, 2020 9:01 pm
While it is unfortunate the blaster ignored your instructions, I see nothing to worry about. The perches have bushings that can be removed and replaced with pressed in new ones and I see no problem with the other area you show that were sandblasted. Even the sandblasted bushings would not pose a problem for me for I don’t believe the blasting has removed enough to make any difference in the performance of the spring hangers. Just grease them and they will smooth out soon enough. Jim Patrick
PS. Personally, I do not like sandblasting, especially to body panels, as it can warp the sheet metal beyond repair and destroys the original smooth surface the Model T came off the assembly line with. While it is more labor intensive, I remove paint with paint remover, sandpaper and elbow grease and rust with muriatic acid and sandpaper.
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big2bird
- Posts: 458
- Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2020 10:57 pm
- First Name: Jeffrey
- Last Name: Hausey
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Early 23 Touring
- Location: Anaheim, Ca.
- Board Member Since: 2020
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by big2bird » Thu Dec 10, 2020 9:05 pm
Your over thinking this. The paint will adhere better, and the joints will polish themselves.
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Topic author
KrazyFam
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2020 8:45 pm
- First Name: Karl
- Last Name: Frederick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Runabout
- Location: Spokane
- Board Member Since: 2020
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by KrazyFam » Thu Dec 10, 2020 9:25 pm
That's what I was hoping to hear....Thanks guys.
Cheers
Karl
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Norman Kling
- Posts: 4634
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
- First Name: Norman
- Last Name: Kling
- Location: Alpine California
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by Norman Kling » Thu Dec 10, 2020 9:29 pm
Those parts look fine to me. The bushing should be replaced any way. If the rod fits into the axle snugly the nut will hold it in place and the spring will keep it from rotating. Looks fine to me. As to body parts. When you are working with a body like mine was, sandblasting is about the only way to go. I did it myself and the next day I primed it with epoxy primer and over that sanding primer followed by finish coat. I did not clear coat. The car is parked in a garage unless I am on a tour and 16 years later still looks good. I did all the body work before the sandblasting and primer and just used filler in very few places. I also did the epoxy primer in the inside of the body parts too. The important thing is to use the primer sealer soon after the sandblasting so it will not rust. I didn't sandblast the chassis parts. Just cleaned it up good and sanded it before painting. Parts such as the axles, and other suspension parts are not supposed to be polished up like the body. Same goes for the engine and head. The sand pits were original.
Norm
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Steve Jelf
- Posts: 7238
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Jelf
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
- Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
- Board Member Since: 2007
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by Steve Jelf » Thu Dec 10, 2020 11:21 pm
I agree that chassis parts should not be glossy. Leave that for the body and wheels. I use a satin finish for the chassis, including the engine. For those parts I use Rustoleum satin black in a rattle can. It needs no Primer. Just blast, wipe clean, prep with 50/50 phosphoric acid, dry, and shoot. I hang small parts in the oven and bake them overnight at 180º-200º. It shortens the drying and curing time from a week to a few hours.
Even some very pure purists forego the stock steel perch and spring bushings and use bronze instead. You can buy them by size on the net, and a large town may even have a shop that sells them. I would rather wear out easily replaced bushings than expensive shackles.
Pressing in a spring bushing. A little grease doesn't hurt.
Reaming for shackle fit.
Installing the perch bushing.
If you have the later style perches with oil holes you need to drill the bushings.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
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Allan
- Posts: 6610
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
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by Allan » Fri Dec 11, 2020 7:00 am
It is wise to remove any bushing before sand blasting and painting. Doing it after painting will invariably cause damage to the fresh paint. Using Steve's method to install them will be OK, so long as you don't get paint in the holes. I'd much rather sand blast,etch prime, fit bushes and then paint.
Allan from down under.
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Topic author
KrazyFam
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2020 8:45 pm
- First Name: Karl
- Last Name: Frederick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Runabout
- Location: Spokane
- Board Member Since: 2020
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by KrazyFam » Fri Dec 11, 2020 9:30 am
Just seeing the responses to my questions reinforce my feelings that I chose a my new hobby well. I truly appreciate all the info shared, and so quickly!! Can't wait to meet my Spokane T-Club in person once this "thing" is behind us.
Cheers
Karl
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Allan
- Posts: 6610
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
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by Allan » Fri Dec 11, 2020 5:20 pm
Karl, I would not wait until you have the problem fixed before meeting with the Spokane club. Get in first and you will find help with any problems you may encounter.
Allan from down under.