Question about carbide generators
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Topic author - Posts: 5370
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- Board Member Since: 1999
Question about carbide generators
In the classifieds one of the members was looking for a specific brand of Ford supplied generator to fit the holes in his running board. Wouldn't the mounting hole spacing be the same on all generators supplied as original equipment and installed on Ford cars if the holes were punched in the running boards? Or were the holes drilled to match the brand? Everything I have read indicated that what ever brand of lights and equipment were at hand is what was installed.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup

1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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- Posts: 277
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:28 am
- First Name: Kenneth
- Last Name: Parker
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914, 1925
- Location: Houston, Texas
Re: Question about carbide generators
Yes, a Victor generator may have been placed on a car with E&J lamps.
The 4-hole (bottom tank) spacing is 5" c-c side to side (like the T running board) and 5-1/4" c-c
in the other direction along the running board. They are the same and whatever was on the line was used.
This orients the bottom tank acetylene output tube toward the car when placed correctly.
The running boards were punched with the two carbide generator holes when Ford began punching
the splash shield and radiators to accept the acetylene gas hose in mid 1912, June or so.
Victor, Corcoran, John Brown and E&J carbide generators supplied to Ford during that time will have that spacing
in the bottom tank mounting flange.
The 1/2" hole punched in the splash shield lines up with the two carbide generator holes in the running board.
All of these holes are slightly rimmed to protect the gas hose.
Black & Brass generators with three holes, or different spacing, were supplied for other makes of cars.
The 4-hole (bottom tank) spacing is 5" c-c side to side (like the T running board) and 5-1/4" c-c
in the other direction along the running board. They are the same and whatever was on the line was used.
This orients the bottom tank acetylene output tube toward the car when placed correctly.
The running boards were punched with the two carbide generator holes when Ford began punching
the splash shield and radiators to accept the acetylene gas hose in mid 1912, June or so.
Victor, Corcoran, John Brown and E&J carbide generators supplied to Ford during that time will have that spacing
in the bottom tank mounting flange.
The 1/2" hole punched in the splash shield lines up with the two carbide generator holes in the running board.
All of these holes are slightly rimmed to protect the gas hose.
Black & Brass generators with three holes, or different spacing, were supplied for other makes of cars.
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- Posts: 3699
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:43 am
- First Name: Larry
- Last Name: Smith
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- Location: Lomita, California
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: Question about carbide generators
A common problem with posters is they don't indicate the year of the car which is important. In 1913 and 1914 Ford punched holes in the running boards for the generators. Right and left running boards are the same. If your generator doesn't line up with these holes, then it is not for a Ford.
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- Posts: 346
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:43 am
- First Name: Darren
- Last Name: Wallace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1913 Canadian Touring 1905 Queen model B
- Location: Woodstock, Ontario, Canada
- Board Member Since: 2005
- Contact:
Re: Question about carbide generators
Bill Glass told me that he felt the running boards were punched according to brand, or at least that was the info he gave me for 1912, and early 1913. He also told me there are different "three hole spacings" depending on brand. Where and how he came to this conclusion I cannot remember. Most pre 1913 Ford supplied all brass generators had three holes, not four. With the three hole models, Jno Brown's have a slightly larger hole centers: 6 1/4". Victor, and E&J's are very close to each other and the average measurement seems to be 6 1/8". Corocan's are supposed to be very close to the Victor's and E&J's according to what Bill Glass told me. The Jno Browns seem to be the "odd man out".
Keep in mind these dimensions are not "plus or minus three thou", they have some slight variations up to about 1/16" of an inch.
John Tannehill has also kindly shown me KNOWN original to car original all brass generators with the different hole spacings respective to the brand.
I don't claim to be an expert, but I have researched this really long and hard talking to many people that are much more educated than I, as I've been trying to find the correct generator to MY car. Because these things aren't cheap and easy to find, I've tried to do my homework to the best of my ability. I thought I had the correct one which currently is a typical black Victor, but it has a three hole base. It looks period correct but as I do more research, I’ve found Ford literature for really early 1913’s showing all brass generators. Unfortunately the pics are from a distance and it unclear which one it actually is.
The holes on my original running boards are PUNCHED, as is the rubber hose hole in the splash aprons and I can prove it. It's also right over the 1912 Ford logo because I have a 4 door Canadian car. Being a tool and die machinist of 35+ years I can tell when a hole has been drilled or punched. There is a very distinct difference, especially when the holes interfere with the diamond pleats in the running boards. Even with a dill jig with guide bushings, there would be evidence of how a hole looks when drilled as opposed to punched.
I have researched this to a point that would even make Larry proud! Trust me.... it ain't easy....especially with a Canadian car!
Keep in mind these dimensions are not "plus or minus three thou", they have some slight variations up to about 1/16" of an inch.
John Tannehill has also kindly shown me KNOWN original to car original all brass generators with the different hole spacings respective to the brand.
I don't claim to be an expert, but I have researched this really long and hard talking to many people that are much more educated than I, as I've been trying to find the correct generator to MY car. Because these things aren't cheap and easy to find, I've tried to do my homework to the best of my ability. I thought I had the correct one which currently is a typical black Victor, but it has a three hole base. It looks period correct but as I do more research, I’ve found Ford literature for really early 1913’s showing all brass generators. Unfortunately the pics are from a distance and it unclear which one it actually is.
The holes on my original running boards are PUNCHED, as is the rubber hose hole in the splash aprons and I can prove it. It's also right over the 1912 Ford logo because I have a 4 door Canadian car. Being a tool and die machinist of 35+ years I can tell when a hole has been drilled or punched. There is a very distinct difference, especially when the holes interfere with the diamond pleats in the running boards. Even with a dill jig with guide bushings, there would be evidence of how a hole looks when drilled as opposed to punched.
I have researched this to a point that would even make Larry proud! Trust me.... it ain't easy....especially with a Canadian car!
1913 Canadian Touring & 1905 Queen, both cars are 4 generation family owned cars
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- Posts: 346
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:43 am
- First Name: Darren
- Last Name: Wallace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1913 Canadian Touring 1905 Queen model B
- Location: Woodstock, Ontario, Canada
- Board Member Since: 2005
- Contact:
Re: Question about carbide generators
I would invite and encourage anyone who has any brand of all brass generator with three holes to measure the center to center distance and post it here. It would be nice to have pictures and an accuracy to within 1/32” of an inch. Thank you!
1913 Canadian Touring & 1905 Queen, both cars are 4 generation family owned cars
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Topic author - Posts: 5370
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Question about carbide generators
Thank you for the replies and education. After reading the wanted ad got me to wondering about it. 

I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup

1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup
-
- Posts: 277
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:28 am
- First Name: Kenneth
- Last Name: Parker
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914, 1925
- Location: Houston, Texas
Re: Question about carbide generators
We talk about these every so often so I measured and took a picture
of mine in the shop today.The running boards and splash shields are original 1913.
The carbide generator holes have the diamond pattern "shortened" in front
of them so the punch hits a flat spot. Slight indentation on the top and a
slight smooth rim on the underside. It is 21/64" in diameter.
The gas hose hole is 1/2" in diameter and has a smooth 1/8" high rim
around the edge to protect the gas hose.
of mine in the shop today.The running boards and splash shields are original 1913.
The carbide generator holes have the diamond pattern "shortened" in front
of them so the punch hits a flat spot. Slight indentation on the top and a
slight smooth rim on the underside. It is 21/64" in diameter.
The gas hose hole is 1/2" in diameter and has a smooth 1/8" high rim
around the edge to protect the gas hose.
-
- Posts: 277
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:28 am
- First Name: Kenneth
- Last Name: Parker
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914, 1925
- Location: Houston, Texas
Re: Question about carbide generators
Since I was under there, I measured the speedometer hole punched in the right
splash shield but couldn't get it to load just previous for some reason.
It is 1-1/4" in diameter, smooth and flush with the shield.
I moved the grommet and Stewart cable out of the way to measure.
Frame of car is just to the right.
Does anyone have a picture of a 1912 running board that has the two 21/64" holes
punched for the carbide generator like the 1913's?
splash shield but couldn't get it to load just previous for some reason.
It is 1-1/4" in diameter, smooth and flush with the shield.
I moved the grommet and Stewart cable out of the way to measure.
Frame of car is just to the right.
Does anyone have a picture of a 1912 running board that has the two 21/64" holes
punched for the carbide generator like the 1913's?
-
- Posts: 3699
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:43 am
- First Name: Larry
- Last Name: Smith
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 13 Touring, 13 Roadster, 17 Coupelet, 25 Roadster P/U
- Location: Lomita, California
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: Question about carbide generators
You should be able to buy an exact copy of the speedometer casing grommet from Langs. When I was running the business, that is the way it was. I turned over the business to my partner a couple of years ago.