1921 centerdoor Kingston L4 question

Justbrett · Post by **Justbrett** » Sat Feb 20, 2021 7:28 pm

I am sure this has been covered, and for this question I apologize.

I have a 21 centerdoor, i put a Kingston L4 on it. I have read over and over- give 1 - 3 turns on needle, adjust timing to max retard, and throttle to just over min fuel. with key off choke and crank a couple times to prime, flip the key on and crank.

Sounds so easy. I get motor runnin, advance timing to where engine sounds good, and then ... the stutter stutter engine dies and next I know I have gas pouring out of the carb bowl.

I’m doing something wrong and my internet Kung foo is failing me too.

My motor sounds great when it’s running on battery. When I flip to magneto it really takes off. I just cannot figure out what I’m missing here
I thought I’d have the car running better than the car looked, but my body work is better than the mechanic-in, all my fenders boards and aprons are top coat painted, my body is primed as of today-. But I can’t get it running well enough to drive it back into the garage.

Thanks in advance for helping me out...

Post by **RajoRacer** » Sat Feb 20, 2021 7:30 pm

Sounds as though the float might be sinking or sunk.

Justbrett · Post by **Justbrett** » Sat Feb 20, 2021 8:55 pm

Yep I wonder if that’s right.

My tanks clean, using only sediment bulb, and a gas cock at the carb from langs.

I’ve heard the newer Kingston’s needles are sensitive somehow- but I really don’t know enough yet to figure it out..

For sinking the float- how does the turning knob on dash
Affect this? Do I need to take the 1-4 turns back to a point once the engine is started?

Justbrett · Post by **Justbrett** » Sat Feb 20, 2021 9:01 pm

This car had a vaporizer on it I plan to rebuild and reinstall— but I’d like to understand how the Kingston works before I rebuild the ivaporizer though.

Norman Kling · Post by **Norman Kling** » Sat Feb 20, 2021 9:26 pm

The vaporizer is not correct for your car. It also gives you a bit less power than a L4. With a centerdoor, you need all the power you can get because of the weight of the car.
I believe your problem has nothing to do with the position of the needle valve, however, you could try leaning the mixture by turning clockwise until it starts to stall, then back off just enough to run smooth.
If you turn on the gas at the sediment bulb and at the carburetor without starting the car, does it start overflowing? If so, you have a problem with the float valve. If it does not, then your problem is from flooding caused by excess choking, or running too rich.
There are at least five causes of problems with the float valve. 1. dirt in the needle seat causing the needle to stay open. Float rubbing against the bowl sticking while partially open. 3.Bad gasket between the needle seat and the carburetor body. 4. Worn needle valve which does not seat properly. 5. Float leaking and filled with gasoline. 6. Float level set too high. These will apply to all brands of carburetors.
Norm

Justbrett · Post by **Justbrett** » Sat Feb 20, 2021 10:40 pm

Thanks Norm — this is what I need. I had this running in my garage 3 weeks ago for maybe 15 minutes. Like a dream everything was right. I’d just replaced the band liners over New Years and in this 15 min I went forward and backward as things should work, I confess I have never driven the T except for this little bit.
My car has a starter, the starter Bendix broke, so I ordered parts from langs — no it seems maybe I took a chunk out of the ring as when using starter to turn car over I get a whirr cluck whirr clunk.
Since replacing Bendix I’ve only been training with crank, once engine is running it turns over like butter, half crank and starts right up. Then stalls and I note has pouring out of carb, so I shut switch off, disconnect neg, and turn drain on carb to force drain carb.

Tomorrow i will shut gas at sediment bulb, and open at carb to drain, and see if meddle is sticking in the afternoon...

Please keep it coming gents !!

Brett

Bill Coyle · Post by **Bill Coyle** » Sun Feb 21, 2021 12:22 am

I believe what was meant by the "float sinking" was the float might have a small crack or hole in it allowing fuel inside. Causing it to be heavier and not float as high as it should... therefore not being able to close the valve. If you remove the float and shake it, you should be able to hear or feel gas inside if that is the problem.
Bill

Justbrett · Post by **Justbrett** » Wed Mar 10, 2021 5:46 am

I’m a little late with a reply and a thanks-

This Kingston had a rubber tipped float needle, and it wasn’t seating right. I replaced the float needle and seat, and set the float height at 180 degrees on Saturday, and this motor is purring like a sewing machine.

This case is closed!

Thanks again -
Brett

Post by **BobShirleyAtlantaTx** » Wed Mar 10, 2021 6:17 am

Make sure you have a fuel flow to the carburetor. Be careful gas fumes are very volatile and please check this outside with a cold engine. Loosen the fuel line nut and observe the amount of gas flow, it should be a steady stream. If not, there’s at least one of your problems, a partially blocked fuel supply.

Justbrett · Post by **Justbrett** » Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:54 pm

Thanks RobShirleyAtlantaTX, I have a new filter screen and lead gasket for bulb. I plan to change out the existing fuel line (it’s copper now but will replace with SS brake line) when I do the filter and gasket. Also got some lube for petcocks from langs.

I only have 1/4 tank to burn or drain remaining so maybe this weekend or next.

Appreciate the kind help.

Brett

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1921 centerdoor Kingston L4 question

1921 centerdoor Kingston L4 question

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