That 1/16 inch Measurement

[Mopar_man]

So I've seen the diagram for adjusting the clutch It says to pull back on the pedal and adjust the yoke 1/16th of an inch. However I'm not sure where the measurement is taken. is it supposed to be measured like this? By the way I measured it at 1/4 inch I'll fix that if this is the place where it gets measured. Is it supposed to be from the yoke to the end of the hole? The outside of the hole?

[Mark Gregush]

Offset between the holes when you are looking thru them is how I do it. It does not have to be exact.

[Norman Kling]

The important thing is that when the pedal is all the way back in high position, the clutch lever on the side of the transmission is all the way decompressed. This would be up on the end where the clevis is and down at the end where the bolt is. See the diagram. The brake lever is all the way forward. So there would be a little play in the link before the pedal starts to de-compress the spring.
Norm

[John kuehn]

I get the holes where I can see thru both of them is how I do it it seems to work for me. That’s if the holes are not wallowed out or oval. I think the holes shouldn’t have much ware if any. The less the better. If you can get a good neutral that’s what your after. What ever works for your car that’s right for it.

[Peter, Memphis TN]

You've gotta remember who the Model T was designed for. These were farmers, ditch diggers, etc.... They didn't have exact measurement tools, or the time to use them. The idea the instructions are trying to convey is that with the pedal all the way back, there's still a little play in the linkage, but not a whole lot of slop. That's all.

This was a car about which EVERYONE knew the "correct" gap for the spark plugs was "the thickness of a worn dime." Not a brand new dime, mind you, but one you might have in your pocket.

It was "everyman's car," and not every man worried about the tiny details!

[Mopar_man]

Thanks everyone. I think I got it. I just didn't understand where the measurement was.

[Alan Long]

I suppose another way of explaining it is as long as the Bronze Fork inside the transmission isn’t loaded up trying to
to compress the clutch fingers but free to rattle about a bit. Identical to later clutches that need clearance on the thrust throw out Bearing to prevent it from constantly running against the fingers as it’s for intermittent use.
Just my thoughts
Alan in Western Australia