Fuel Tank Building 101 Part 1

[Henry K. Lee]

I spent some time today setting up my shop for tomorrow’s lesson plan. I will be demonstrating another method a little easier for you all using only 5 pieces of metal. Simple tools and the high end tools will be shown to give you options. So for minimal cost you can have some excellent results.

Stay turned for tomorrow’s fun.

All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See

[Henry K. Lee]

To show you what the possibilities are, this one of the most rarest outboard engines there is. A total basket case when I purchased it with missing parts, etc. It is a 1928 Cross 5 Cylinder Radial Outboard Engine making 50 HP. They did not start producing that again until the late 1960's. A lot of reverse engineering but a total labor of love.

The donut style fuel tank I was able to make in a day. It is all in planning the style and be patience. No Rush!

All the Best,

Hank

[DHort]

Beautiful job. Thank you.

[JWalters]

Looking forward to seeing your work. Thanks for sharing.

[RustyFords]

Beautiful stuff Hank....it's always a pleasure to follow along.

[Henry K. Lee]

Well not a long day in the shop as planned due to cold rainy weather and body aches, but a start.

First of all, basic tools to do this. With basic tools more labor and time is required to gain results, but really who cares, look at it as therapy!
Quality tools now days can be found online, flea markets, swap meets, etc. Even various shapes of metal laying around and at a scrap yard works.
Using an old croquet ball and large diameter wooden dowel is your friend too. Does your wife have a wooden rolling pin she does not use anymore? Remember when she use to make pies, well, make panels with it now.

An old British friend once told me, If you can imagine it, you can make it. The only limitations are the depth of your machines, the space you are working in, and ability. So practice, make in pieces, and get a bigger place.

[Henry K. Lee]

We only want to use quality steel, mild grade, clean, and 20 to 22 gauge works fine. We are now moving into layout and a few other tools that make life easier. The upper pliers are glass cutters and the large ones are duct flange pliers.

Layout is very important as it keeps things true. I have put this into my power roll machine for a strap guide using a 1/4" bead, they look really nice with these guides.

On another note, fuel tanks above the centerline of the frame "Must" have baffles. Even the old folks in the era knew of the bad effects without them. Baffles prevent adverse effects from center of gravity, G's! Imagine shifting 12 gallons of fuel all the way over to one side and as it does it gains it weight by 3 1/2 times. Well that's what it does. And you roll over. Geometry and ergonomics are of great importance when changing an original design.

On a side note, there are many techniques in panel making and these are just a few, so other tricks I will show at a later date when time and opportunity
arises. One will be making either a round or oval fuel tank from round galvanized duct sheetmetal, no welding required.

If you do not have access to a shrinker, don't panic, notching or scaling (finger over lay) is an option. Takes a little longer, but again therapy! Will show later a great welding technique for all of this. I do not like flux core welders, and you do not want to use oxygen/acetylene on this sheetmetal. Way to much heat.

Moving on...,

[Henry K. Lee]

If you have noticed, I have bead rolled my complete piece first then shear again. This is because of the bead rolls line up perfectly when I resection the metal. Don't forget to file your edges after cutting, save on stitches.

If you have a HVAC company close by, they may bend the metal for you. Remember, duct work is galvanized and we do not use it here as the welding puts off deadly fumes. There are plans on the internet and other sources on how to build a sheetmetal break. A Box Break or Finger Break is a must for me but I am attempting to keep this as simple as possible. I am using some of my high end super tools behind the camera to speed things up, ie, slip roll, pneumatic panishing hammer, english wheel, etc. But you do not need these......, yet. Comes with the trade.

Now on a clean swept floor, lay down two 2 X 4's about 10" apart, push and rub the wooden dowel against the panel and watch your results. Using the croquet ball with a canning paraffin will help well too and the rolling pin. Don't over do it and check your results as you go.

If using a shrinker tool, do this often, and if using in conjunction with a pan sheetmetal break, really often.

[Henry K. Lee]

First picture is a nice power roll machine that does so much, from body bead rolls to louvers.

Pictures of why the fingers are removed and what happens if they are not in a pan break. Bad kinks at the tank strap area.

Sorry if I am getting ahead or behind on some items, I am still fighting a crappy sinus/chest crud. Please bare with me.

You will also notice that there are some marks that have "PC" and "PT" these are for Point of Curvature and Point of Tangent. Just layout and you can come up with whatever makes your heart happy.

More to follow tomorrow folks, hope you enjoy!

Hank

[Doug Keppler]

I love it Hank!

[Henry K. Lee]

If this is to big for any of you, we will start with mailboxes 101, OK?

All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See

[Les Schubert]

Good stuff. Thank you

[Henry K. Lee]

After some serious thinking, I believe I was getting way ahead of myself. I want this to be easy so I am revising this and starting a new thread.

All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See