ball park paint cost???

[halftracknut]

What would a person expect to pay for show paint job on 26 T touring? thanks

[Henry K. Lee]

Stripped down to the bare metal and brought back spot on..., $8,000.00 to $10,000.00.

Find people willing to work and restore every day..., They get their bounty!

[EricMac]

I did a '26 Touring about 20 years ago that turned out well. You first have to establish what level show quality you are after. Personally, I wanted the best in the world and got it. Plan on 15-20k for a paint job to that level today, but it is well worth it if you want the best. Keep in mind, we're talking about paint on every single surface of the car. Best of luck.

[pron022020]

It depends. Different shops charge different labor amounts and use different products. Some guys are willing to have you do some of the work as they teach which saves money.

[Humblej]

Ford never painted cars to show quality standards. You could easily pay more for body work and a paint job than your car will ever be worth. After high school I worked in an antique auto restoration shop. In my opinion, no cars were ever worth what it cost the owner with the exception of the early to mid 30's Cords, Desenbergs, etc. The cost in a paint job is the body work and paint prep. The slowest stage of the paint job was the build up and hand sanding layer after layer of primer. I am reminded of a Stenoskei winning 1926 touring that was for sale on the MTFCA Forum classifieds a couple of years ago, took a long time to sell it, price kept being reduced, if I remember to $14k, it may have sold for less than that. What a shame.

[MichaelPawelek]

I am having the 4 pieces of hood stripped and painted on my ‘25 Coupe. As part of the deal I went to my local PPG store and bought the paint for the project myself. 1 quart of color, 1 quart of reducer and 1 smaller can of hardener was $544.39

[TXGOAT2]

A$tronomical. (And it may not last as long as a more mundane paint job, especially if it is applied over sheet metal that requires a lot of straightening and filling, which it nearly all does). Furthermore, Model Ts vibrate, flex and bend when in operation, and the tires will pick up debris and fling it at your paint job. Doors will damage paint around the door opening during normal use, as will deck lids. Hoods are subject to chipping and flexing and high heat, and it's very difficult to keep paint on Model T hood hinges. Areas around the top mechanism and folded top fabrics will suffer paint damage in normal use. Then there's the running boards..... All of the running gear... and more. In my opinion, a good paint job is sufficient, more authentic, and will allow the car to be driven and enjoyed without serious damage to the paint job.

[TWrenn]

My Fordor was a frame-off resto by the guy's late father. He said he's pretty sure his dad sunk arond $15K in it, I did find the receipt for just the primer work...it was $3K for just that! It's a drop dead gorgeous job, both inside and out for sure. You can see he took off literally every part of the car, the chassis & running gear actually isn't as nice as was done on my '11 Torpedo, but good enough. The body work in and out is beyond perfect.

[John kuehn]

I can the remember several years ago that a local T restorer had his 14 Touring repainted “professionally” with several coats of lacquer and with the utmost care. When he got it back he just couldn’t get use to the super high gloss job that looked like plastic. It just didn’t look right as he kept saying.
He later removed the paint and painted it himself and was happy for a more authentic look.

Nowadays Fords paint jobs that was put on at Fords factories would be considered amateurish to say the least and redone by the perfectionists that we have today.

A nice paint job is at least 75% preparation. That’s where all the cost is involved. The rest is paint costs.
Use a primer and single stage paint and it will look just fine.

Remember the $20.000 you paid for a super nice restoration these days will only be worth 12-15.000 when you want to sell it in a few years. But if it’s a trailer queen you might get a little more to the right person.

[TWrenn]

Gonna try a comparison pic of a DIY job on my former Model A...rear fender was done with a rattle can paint...Valspar Paint-n-Primer, the front fender was a local body shop job. Almost can't tell the difference in the picture...bit difference in real life.

[Henry K. Lee]

I was pricing mine by you removing and bringing the pieces to the shop and reassemble yourself! Prices are about correct for sure. Another reason why I retired my restoration business about 6 years ago, everyone wants a deal but no clue of real operation cost in doing a job correctly.

Hank

[ivaldes1]

It is good to know that mine is more factory correct than factory then! It looks all of its 100 years. Homemade seat patches, home made upholstery, rust holes. I don't bother to wash it much.

[jiminbartow]

Good morning. I painted my 1926 coupe in 1995 with DuPont Gloss Jet Black Imron Epoxy paint and it still looks just as good as the day I painted it. Even back then, it was incredibly expensive but I’m glad I went all out with the best paint available at the time, probably of all time. It was one of those forever paints that almost lasts forever, at least in my case. Unfortunately, Ithink it was deemed dangerous by the government and is no longe available. Fortunately I bought two gallons of hat Imron with the activator for future use in painting parts or touch up. In the can, it lasts forever as well, until activator is added. Whoever buys my coupe when I list it in the next few week will get those two gallons of Imron with activator. Jim Patrick

[Rich Eagle]

How times have changed! I remember in 1971 a local owner of a Springfield Rolls Royce refused a bid of $100 for a complete paint job as it was too expensive.
Back to reality.
Rich

[jiminbartow]

PS. It just occurred to me that I have been posting those pictures for many years, leading some to be skeptical and asking, “So, what does it look like now?”. I just went out to the garage and took the following pictures just a couple of minutes ago. If you can find the equivalent quality of Imron, this is what you have to look forward to. What you see was painted 25 years ago and shows no sign of deterioration, age or oxidation and this is no trailer queen. While it has always been garage kept, it is not pampered and polished every week. Jim Patrick

[jiminbartow]

PS. Here are a few more. Jim Patrick

[TRDxB2]

How times have changed! I remember in 1971 a local owner of a Springfield Rolls Royce refused a bid of $100 for a complete paint job as it was too expensive.
Back to reality.
Rich

And there was the Earl of Paint and he's still around

[Steve Jelf]

When the What oil? question comes up, somebody always points out that the cheapest oil you can buy today is much better than what was available in the Model T era. I think the same is true of paint. Yes, you can spend much more than your T is worth in pursuit of a gorgeous Duesenberg-worthy finish, but I suspect a rattle can job with today's farm equipment paint or Rustoleum will look just as good and will last much longer than what rolled off the assembly line at Highland Park in 1920.

Disclaimer: My opinion may be worth what you paid for it.

[pron022020]

Imron was a good, tough paint. I used it on the floor registers for our 1908 House. Stuff barely is scratched or chipped anywhere after over 30 years.
Nothing comes close these days.

[John kuehn]

Tim Wrenn makes a good point in comparison of the rattle can paint job to a standard job.
If his whole car was painted with about 2 -3 cases of rattle cans it would look pretty good,
And as good as Henry’s!

[TWrenn]

Jim your car with that Imron looks great. I wish it was still available. As you said it's indestructible. I've used it, have a little left. Used to be put on commercial airliners cause it held up so well to the extreme temp changes.

John, thanks. I've often threatened to do a complete paint job on a project car just to try it. That Valspar paint as well as the appliance epoxy has come a long way if prepped right and sprayed carefully. They really don't do bad if you're not wanting museum quality out of them. And a LOT cheaper!!

[Erik Johnson]

There was an antique auto enthusiast here in the Twin Cities who was a professional mechanic and a talented antique car restorer.

In the 1960s, he restored a 1918 Overland touring and decided to use rattle can paint as a challenge to see if he could get satisfactory results. He bought Martin Seynour rattle can enamel by the case with matching lot numbers from NAPA. He warmed the cans in a water bath before spraying.

If you had seen the car, you would never have known that it was painted utilizing rattle cans.

[david_dewey]

I was going to say that it depends on what kind of a fence is around the ball park. . .
But seriously, we just had a car accident that damaged the hood and the front plastic bumper cover and the painting cost in the estimate is $2,060 alone!
Paint costs are astronomical now, and labor isn't far behind. Of course, if you do it yourself, you will at least save the labor costs! And yes, you can do a good job without a paint booth, I've done it many times (although a few years in the past) and the cars have placed high in Concourse shows, including a Second at Silverado (and I was told that if I had brought a complete period tool kit, I likely would have been first). That car was painted inside, but it was just an old concrete garage with a fan blowing air out. Another car was done in a guy's carport, admittedly ti was far from any roads and had gravel around it (well watered down before I began painting). You do need to protect yourself, a tyvek painters suit, and a paint-graded respirator, if you don't have an air supplied face mask.

[John kuehn]

Tim I can remember reading a HOT ROD magazine in the 70’s about a guy who used rattle cans of black lacquer to paint an early V8 Ford Roadster. All I can remember he used lots of cans to do and it to a while. It was on the cover and looked really good. And that’s when you could find and buy a 30’s V8 at a fairly decent price. But not any more!
I’m not sure HOT ROD magazine is still in print but it was around for a long time.

[Rich Eagle]

Tyler mentioned Imron. My Yellow Speedster was painted with first generation Imron. It's the best finish I ever had. It was highly toxic for it's time and caught many painters off guard. They tell me it has gone thru many changes since then. It was successfully used on a lot of airplanes. What's the shelf life? I have some 40 year old Gloss Black.

[TWrenn]

Rich as long as it's in the can sealed well it should last a long long time, with no activator touching it until needed. It was some wicked stuff, but man it was good.

[Loftbed]

Did this PW back in 2016 and material costs exceeded $1500.00 two stage BC/CC
If you're going for top of the line show finish or average, just remember that after care is a very important part of how that job will look after a short time. throw away them bath towels I don't know how many times I've seen a great paint job destroyed by the use of dry towels as a dust cloth. Detail spray is your friend.

Rod

[pron022020]

The thing about rattle can paint is that it has very little solvent resistance and uv inhibitor, unlike 2k paint. I would never paint anything on the body with it. Even Henry's lacquer and enamel had better solvent resistance than rattle can.

[bmklawt]

Just got an estimate for my 1927 Touring, $17,332.00, about $15,000.00 to rich for my blood
Attached PDF of estimate

[TRDxB2]

Just got an estimate for my 1927 Touring, $17,332.00, about $15,000.00 to rich for my blood
Attached PDF of estimate

The estimate appears to reflect painting it assembled. Is that correct? What is Misc. Body Work?

[TWrenn]

Rod you are right about tossing the bath towels! I use Wizards detail spray in between polishing with their Master Shine. Usually only need to polish once, maybe twice a year, it's that good. So is the detail spray, called "Mist-n-Shine" I think. Pink pump spray bottle. Really works good, and of course ONLY use micro-fibre cloths, and even those are not born the same.

[Dropacent]

The days of affordable pro paint work are long gone. Even to do it yourself is shock8mg in expense. It’s all a personal choice, but I’d wax that beautiful touring of Bruce’s and love it and drive it. They actually get more attention with an original look.
I get a lot of stuff powdercoated, and for me, it’s cheaper than even buying a rattle spray can. I have a wood hack with refinished old wood, and am contemplating doing the fenders and other tin in the black matte finish. I did my hood last fall, and it’s just the look I want. $20 in a very durable powder coat, it waxes up nice and looks great. After my prep work, I’ll probably have less than $200 in all the rest of the sheet metal. I am blessed with a really good sandblaster and commercial powder coater close by.
Just did my rad shell and cycle fenders for the merc and they look great. My plans are for an aged silver paint job on the tub, likely by me. If you want a shiny show car finish, buckle up, buttercup. You will end up really underwater. JMHO

[Dropacent]

I should add, and this is important. The metal has to be really nice for powdercoat. Filler is out of the question. And please don’t tell me filler is available, not for an industrial powdercoat furnace.

[Steve Jelf]

Does the 17 grand job use body solder, or plastic filler?

[Dropacent]

With the high tech fillers, I’d use plastic over lead any day of the week. JMHO. Even lead would have plastic over it to finish. There is about nowhere on a T that can’t be ironed out by a skilled person, so the filler is just for minor imperfections.

[TXGOAT2]

I've seen a lot of older cars with factory lead filled seams have paint failure over the leaded areas. I've seen problems with old lead-fill bodywork, too. Apparently, the lead does not expand at the same rate as the steel under it, and there can definitely be paint adhesion problems where lead is used as a filler. Many cars up into the 1950s had lead-filled body joints.

[Dropacent]

I’d agree with all that, Pat. In addition, it’s just one more chance for bad things to pop out under the paint. Lack of skill applying it, poor neutralizing afterwards. Pinholes, yada yada. Years ago it was bragging rights, but that’s years ago. Some of the old isn’t good. AND, where is there lead filler on a T originally??

[halftracknut]

It has become very clear to me that I should have listened to Mom and Dad and made life work a Rocket Scientist ! ( or a painter as $17000 is out of this world!!!! ).....

[Steve Jelf]

With the high tech fillers, I’d use plastic over lead any day of the week.

Plastic filler on my hood former (I'm guessing about 50 years old) has been cracking and peeling off. It was used as a cover to fill pretty serious orange peel. What should I use for that? Do I want to fill it with solder, or go with plastic?

...where is there lead filler on a T originally??

It didn't have orange peel originally.

[John kuehn]

Clean it up really well. Go back with plastic filler, repaint or whatever you choose to do.
To what extent you want to redo your hood former, the plastic filler will be good for many years and probably outlast the folks reading this.

[Dropacent]

First off, hard to make a silk purse out of a sows ear. If filler was used to fill orange peel , it was used incorrectly to start off. If you got 50 years out of it, you did good. If you mean it was used to fill rust pits, unless those pits are white metal clean, something will come back. Also pinholes can cause problems. Also, braze repairs are notorious for causing future paint problems.
If you look at the big picture, finding a better former would be money well spent. Otherwise, sandblast and plasticfiller up again. I’d expect you’d be satisfied with another 50 years.
I’ve found it’s always most cost effective to start with the best possible object. Penny wise and pound foolish is a saying I use a lot.

[DanTreace]

One way to reduce total costs is do the work yourself. Isn't rocket science as you posted!


This aftermarket-bodied Model T I did 8 years ago. Was intact but needed it all. Stripped the old paint with Citristrip chemical $60, then took the loose sheet metal, fender, hood, splash shield etc. to sandblaster, he also etched primed all. $200

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Then did the hard part, sanding, prime, sand, prime, wet sand, prime, wet sand, the sprayed on sealer. (un-told hrs. of my labors of love ), primer cost @ $75. The finish paint, acrylic enamel with gloss hardener.

Bought the paint at local auto paint store, gal of black $122, gal. of maroon matched to original, $155. Then found down highway on US301, Hotrod Boyz paint and body shop. They do low cost stuff, like repainting trucks, police cars, etc. Trailered the body there on its wood rolling frame, and they painted it for labor cost of $400! Pays to ask around, they loved it, hadn't done an antique, but all they needed to do was roll it in their spray booth, and hang the fenders and hood sections and apply the paint I supplied. Great deal and looked good, mostly from my labor prep of the body.

[Dropacent]

Is that the Ottawa, Dan? There is one on South Bass Island , in Lake Erie.

[Steve Jelf]

...finding a better former would be money well spent.

And maybe easier said than done. There were three for sale at the Model T Haven auction. I didn't bid because all were in much worse shape than mine. With formers being out of production for over a hundred years, I expect a better one would be mighty hard to come by.

I’d expect you’d be satisfied with another 50 years.

In 2072 I'll be 131 years old. Yes, if it lasts that long I think I'll be more than satisfied.

[DanTreace]

Is that the Ottawa, Dan?

Yes Tim

Now resides in Iowa, at a nice Model T place there, new owner is enjoying that limo like Ford

I think the one at that South Bass museum was auctioned off quite a while ago. Don't know where it is. Tracked two others from the one I did, one unrestored original is in MN the other restored yellow one was at South Bass.

[AndyClary]

Paint costs are through the roof and you are lucky to find a shop to do it. Body shops all seem to be addicted to the insurance money. As shown by the estimate you can save a lot doing your own grunt work, leaving the technical stuff for the pros. A complete paint job is going to push your investment beyond what a Model T may be “worth” but my outlook is, if it’s what you want and you have the wherewithal, it doesn’t really matter what it cost.

Andy

P.S. please don’t rattle can your car and call it authentic.

[Charlie B in N.J.]

Learn to do it and do it yourself. It's totally doable. It's also the only way you'll never spend more than the car's worth on a paint job.

[ThreePedalTapDancer]

[bmklawt]

When I got my car it was 80% in primer, I painted it with rattle cans to get it one uniform color while I puttered around in it last year, The rattle can paint job I did is good enough for me but it need some body work, rear panel has a crease in it and the cowl needs some work that I'm not capable of doing and I'm having no success finding a replacement cowl. Going to hire out the body work and thought if I could get my car painted for $2000.00 I'd have it done, as of now I think I'm going to get the cowl fixed, paint it with rattle cans and call it good enough.
Body work in the quote is to replace the back panel and fix the cowl, they wanted just the body at there shop

[Chris Haynes]

[TRDxB2]

------
Body work in the quote is to replace the back panel and fix the cowl, they wanted just the body at there shop

So you have to remove the body and deliver it to their shop too!
Have you thought about what is involved in do that besides removing seats, windshield, top, wiring etc.. You need a dolly made to transport it with the wood frame, else the body will distort.
Not sure what condition the rear panel is that would require it to be replaced and if they are aware of what effort is involved. I would take the car to a dent repair guy for that and to see what they can do about the ripples down the seam - may be the result of a previous replacement. The drivers side of the cowl looks a bit suspicious - some rust flaking?. Fractures around the bolt holes of the dash may be a sign of another issue needing attention.
as they say = "If it ain't broke don't fix it"

[J1MGOLDEN]

Some of the paint colors cost a lot more than others.

Red cost more than yellow when I did my wheels.

It may be only true for the mix together epoxy paints, as Rustoleum spray cans are all the same price.