Plug In Voltage Regulator For Early Texas T Mitsubishi Alternator

[ModelTWoods]

Does anyone know the Mitsubishi or Industry replacement part number for the external plug in voltage regulator used on the early Texas T alternators marketed by the late Ralph Reeder? I know Snyders sell them for $45.00 each (6 or 12 volt, available), but I figured they probably could be bought through just about any auto parts supplier if the original application or the part number was known.

[Henry K. Lee]

They were custom made.., I have one 6 volt available for $25.00 with shipping!


Hank

[ModelTWoods]

Wow, That's shocking that they were 'custom made'. What did Mitsubishi use in them when they were in service in the original equipment vehicles? I don't need one at this point, but another T owner possibly needs a 12 volt, now.

[ModelTWoods]

They were custom made.., I have one 6 volt available for $25.00 with shipping!


Hank

Hank, George Clipner is the T owner, possibly needing one. He informed me his alternator is a Hitachi, instead of a Mitsubishi. unless Mitsubishi used Hitachi alternators.

[Henry K. Lee]

ND, Mitsubishi, Hitachi, Toyo Electric all were contacted to the same design. The voltage plug in system to use either 6 or 12 volts was for the single wire conversion, ie, commercial applications (forklifts, etc). The other wires if not using the plug in unit is for an exciter wire and idiot light.

Hank

[Jim Eubanks]

I had one of those and it would only kick in at high rpms. Would it have taken a different plug in to fix that?

[Henry K. Lee]

A bad ground or oily connection normal does that, just saying.


Hank

[John iaccino]

I have one of those Hitachi alternators, had to take it off the car. The cut-in speed was so high that the alternator only started charging at about 23 mph.

[ModelTWoods]

George's problem is that the alternator charges at too high a rate, blowing and burning things up. After the engine starts, within 5 seconds a fuse blows. I don't know where the fuse is located or which fuse he's talking about.

Just to clarify George's problem, he is running 12 volts; NOT 6 volts.

[JohnH]

There is a problem with what are really 12V alternators being made to work on 6V. The field coil, being designed for 12V, cannot develop enough magnetism at the much lower field current which occurs with 6V operation. All that has been done is to modify the regulator from 14V to 7V. Hence, the poor low speed performance. To do it properly, the windings would have to also be modified.

[Henry K. Lee]

Nailed it on the head John!

[ModelTWoods]

Nailed it on the head John!

Hank, George is running 12 volts, so the 6 volt theory doesn't apply to him.

[Henry K. Lee]

OK..., Bad (too much) air gap between the armature and field coil will cause that on a rebuilt alternator!

Hank

[Cordes_jeff]

I use a separate voltage regulator that was used on the 60s Chrysler. One wire from the ignition switch and another to the field terminal. They are dirt simple. An electronics minded individual can modify the solid state ones internally by changing zener diodes to obtain any cutout voltage.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

George's problem is that the alternator charges at too high a rate, blowing and burning things up. After the engine starts, within 5 seconds a fuse blows. I don't know where the fuse is located or which fuse he's talking about.

Just to clarify George's problem, he is running 12 volts; NOT 6 volts.

I have never used an alternator, but, I have had a problem where headlights, or anything else in the circuit, blows out. It was due to a shorted out ammeter. Check it out... just in case.