Sediment Bowl,,potatoe…

[Carl]

This is probably been discussed,,but here it goes ….
Need some tips on disassembling the sediment bowl/ valve …
How does everybody else do it …Tricks …??
Thanks in advance …Car

[JTT3]

Carl a Quayleian post. Luckily you have a firewall sediment bowl so it’s pretty straight forward unless your T is a 26 Fordor. I have a diagram of the sediment bowl somewhere and will edit my response with it. On the firewall style you will find the biggest problem is the lever that fits over the brass shaft and secured to the shaft by a nut. Many times you will find that the lever has been forced on or off and has rounded the indention on the shaft off causing the valve to be useless. Attachment courtesy of Martyyn Vowell.

[Carl]

It would be a Tank Under The Seat unit …..

[JTT3]

Carl can you attach a picture of your touring please.
As far as I know the only T model in 1926-27 that had an under the seat tank was the Fordor, your profile says you have a 26 touring. None the less this type is simple to restore. The lever should rotate 360, be aware that the handle will break off if you force it. Keep all the parts when you disassemble. If the handle is difficult to move don’t force it, remove the brass cotter pin and try to save it, remove and keep the spring. Now use, I think it’s a 1/4 inch socket, socket that will barely fit over the exposed post where the spring was, note that the socket size at the end must only rest on the shoulder of the post where it goes into the sediment bowl. Gently tap the socket to drive the handle out the other side. Set all pieces together with the exception of the main body of the sediment bowl. Take the sediment bowl place in a vice, I wrap it, now take a wrench that will fit the square shoulders of the cap where the fuel line to the carb attaches to the sediment bowl. This is where you need a little luck, Tried to turn the cap counter clockwise, don’t try to be too heavy handed here or you’ll round the corners and make it more difficult to remove. If it will not turn you may need a little heat to remove it not a bunch but just enough to help it turn. If you get it too hot you’ll melt the solder that’s holding the mesh screen in the cap. You can try to spray some penetrating fluid into the sediment bowl so it will drain down to the cap on the inside to where the threads of the cap are and may work it’s way down the threads making it easier to turn. You should find a lead washer on the cap, keep it you’ll need to reuse it. Once cap is removed try to clean the screen and any sediment bowl. You will need some gas proof lube to place on the valve so it rotates with a slight bit of tension. If it doesn’t you may need to use some yellow time saver to lap it in just a bit so it will move. Make sure the hole in the valve is cleaned out before reassembly of the valve into the sediment bowl. If you have some antisieze on the threads of the cap and seat it into the sediment bowl. That’s pretty much it. Hope it helps, other may have a different procedure or technique. Best John

https://www.mtfca.com/model_t_encyclope ... ent-bowls/

[tdump]

I just hope you have better luck getting yours to stay leak proof.Mine worked for a while with no leaks,but when I started using the shut off valve more often,it stays damp all the time.I lost a good bit of fuel out of it to.I used a tractor bowl under the TT and may go that route on my pickup,

[rofirestone]

I have had good results by using Aviation Fuel Valve Lube (very lightly)/on sealing gas line fittings from Langs.

[Carl]

Thanks guys for your replies …..
Putting a couple in the freezer now ….
Also forgot about my 8-point sockets in the way back of my extra socket drawer ….

[tdump]

Yes,that lube helps a bunch,but it has been a long time since i did the work on my 'tater' so maby I need to take it off and reapply?
I think I still have a dab of that lube,someone here on the forum sent me some in a plastic bag, I just googled it and it is kinda pricey being it is affiliated with aircraft.

[Carl]

THANKS AGAIN GUYS…,
I got four of them apart …
The “freezing” did the trick ,,,or maybe a combo of all the tips
Gunna buy new screens,,gaskets ,,lap the valves ….
Not sure if I can get the lube locally but I’ll figure out something …
I have a 26/27 to do for my car ,,,need to find a drain valve for it …An early model A one fits ,,but want the right one ..

[tdump]

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... rnlube.php
Maby if your local club wanted to chip in and buy a tube for club use it would spread the cost and it be available for everyone around local?
That is 1 of those things you need just a dab every 10 years it seems.

[jiminbartow]

How about this? These drawings can be found in the gallery. Be sure and click onto the box name. There are 14 drawings having to do with the fuel system. Jim Patrick