Top bow replacement question

[colonelpowers]

I wonder if it is possible to replace the front top bow on a 26 touring and save the top. I can't see how it happened since every other bow is solid and the top is pretty nice, though very old, but my front bow has nearly turned to dust. The top material attached to it is nice and solid. To me, it looks like I could carefully pull all the tacks and pull the top back to the next bow and then remove the rotten wood as far back into the metal as possible then replace the wood with a new piece and then tack everything back.
I haven't worked on a top before so I don't know if there is something that would make things more difficult than I am thinking it would be. I know that originally the wood was steam bent and the metal encased it. If I were to do it the way I am thinking the new wood would have to stop at the bend and then be screwed in place.

Any ideas?

[Humblej]

If I remember, what the vendors sell for a front bow is 3 pieces, a straight rail and 2 curved fillers. If that is what you have I would think that you can replace just the center rail without being destructive to the top. Looking at the Ford parts book and the design of the metal sockets, it would appear the original Ford front bow is a single piece bent at each end. The metal ears and flaps on the socket would be folded over during assembly. If this is what you have, trying to replace the center rail might be like opening a can or worms. I have the same problem and mine is the original wood bow. Let us know how you do it.

[JRSpada4]

In theory, I think it could be done, but my biggest argument against trying would be getting the top stretched back over the bow properly. If you look at Classtique's installation video, starting at 33:23, (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6Y8gKaKIrs&t=2014s) you'll see the final steps before installing the welting is to trim the top material right up to the line of tacks (or staples). There's not much material left to grab onto if you were to remove it and then try to stretch it back into place. One option might be to try to reattach the straps, pads and top material with the front bow not attached to the windshield stanchions so they're slack, and just trying to line up the holes in the fabric with where they should end up. I don't know if you could get a nice, tight top doing this though. I think before trying to do it this way, I would resign myself to the distinct possibility it won't work and you should probably start budgeting for a whole new top in case it doesn't. I've done a '24 Roadster top and a '25 touring top with Classtique kits. They seem to be a daunting task, and the provided instruction sheets don't offer much help, but their video and several past discussions on the forum made it much easier.

For reference, the corners are steam bent. I used two thinner pieces on each side. I used poplar (I know, not correct). They steamed for 20 minutes in simmering water. Working quickly, I inserted them quickly in the bottom portion of the corner and bent them around to the top. Then they were clamped in several places with C-clamps and the tabs on the irons were bent down. I let them cool and dry for 24 hours before unclamping them. You will want to anneal the tabs first or they can break off.

The center sections are ash. Cut to length and shoulders were cut and rounded over to fit into the irons. The ends look like tenons when you're done. The center sections are then riveted into the irons.

[Norman Kling]

I think you can do it. I did it on a 22 and saved the top material. I have also installed tops on the 26-27. Important steps it to get the two clamps to the windshield exactly in position before you rivet the front bow. This will affect the exact locations where the bow is riveted into the irons. The curved pieces can be replaced by layers of oak veneer. This can be bought at a lumber and hardware store in rolls. You cut each layer and heat it up which will activate the glue. Use a hair drier for this. Keep adding layers until it is built out to the thickness. It will hold the tacks.
next attach the straps and top pads to the pads. Then measure and mark the center of the bow and center of the top. Next goes the windbreaker. Then the top. Mark again the center of the bow. Start at the center and tack the top toward the edges. You might need to use a small c clamp to hold the top in place while doing this. Probably best to do it while the bow is not clamped to the windshield so you will have a bit of slack in the top.
Norm

[Harvey Bergstrom]

In response to replacing front bow and trying to save the top, I too have the same question. Top material is in great shape so I have replaced the bow. The one corner was bad so I replaced it with a piece of 3/4 inch pvc board. I used a heat gun to warm it and it softened it enough to get it to form the shape it needed to and it appears that it will work well. I too think the front bow will have to be detached from the stanchions to make it easier to work with the material. Another thought I had was to do this in warm weather, or if I do in a very warm shop or at least a heat lamp or two lamp suspended above the material so one can stretch it easily. Good luck to everyone’s effort saving a good top!