Switch and Dash Light

[BLB27]

I am getting ready to reinstall the switch and dash light on my 1927 coupe.

What do I need to check to see what condition is the switch, ammeter and dash light?

The bare wire on the dash light is a concern.

[BLB27]

Two more photos.

[jiminbartow]

Yes. The dash light wire need to be replaced. While you have the switch apart with the contacts exposed, bend all of the contacts out somewhat for there to be more tension between the contacts. Take some 600 grit wet dry sandpaper and sand each contact until shined. Sand the small round concave contacts also. Be sure to check the key tumblers and oil them with some thin sewing machine or Remington gun oil. Be careful of the tiny springs. Be careful not to mix up the tumbler pieces or your key won’t work. Before assembling the switch, polish the faceplate with some Meguiar’s rubbing compound until shiny to get off that brown rust residue. Dab a little Vaseline on each of the contacts. This will increase the connections as well as provide a smoother action. Be very careful when bending the 4 metal tabs down. They wil break very easily. Jim Patrick

[John.Zibell]

Contact Ben Martin. His information is in this thread. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32324&p=248973&hili ... in#p248973

[J1MGOLDEN]

That pot metal switch cylinder is almost always bad.

If that is good, Jim really got lucky!

[J1MGOLDEN]

The ammeter is an original and may only require new insulation washers for the terminals.

[RajoRacer]

That's the "pin" type switch - not the "bend-over tab" type Jim - easy to clean & lube BUT Ben Martin told me NOT to lube the internals !

[TRDxB2]

I have restored many switches and have many more to do., when I have time
Don't take any more of the switch apart! The next step may get you into a can of worms. From what I see just cleaning is all that is necessary. Do not use any graphite in the lock or elsewhere it will short the switch.

Bending the contacts isn't advisable unless its necessary. The shine on the contacts tells you which need a bit of lift. They need to be cleaned (not polished) I pointed to one that looks dirty but that could be something on the switch plate . The ? mark on the tracking looks like some kind of grease, not good & unnecessary. The friction points, so to speak are on the underside of the disks with the contacts to the steel cup when be rotated. The underside of the small inner disk (it makes the contact from MAG or BAT to the COIL) shows no wear after many years of use. That shows why its unnecessary. When I take a switch completely apart I do put a very, very light coat of silicone grease on the metal surface of the cup.

A light sanding of the contact side of the backing plate is also recommended . Clean those contacts points too.

Be sure to secure the lower nuts on the back of the ammeter when removing the ones on the ends. I

The wire to the light is simply soldered to the tip of the disk. In fact that, see arrow, may be solder. You might get by by removing the contact disk & wire and using shrink wrap over the existing wire to insulate it. Remember too that you'll need to make sure that its mounted to something with a good ground