Options/Help How to window glass oval frame

[Tbird]

Guys,
So I have been working on a Delivery Car project. One of the things I'm trying to tackle is the rear door window glass/frames. The frames are to be oval and the drawings from Benson Ford does not give much help to assembly or how they looked, rather just basic dimensions 11x14.
I've decided to settle on getting some pre-made oval frames from a picture company. Attached is the style I'm going with. The frame is very basic. It has a height of 1" and a width of the frame is 1" and a rabbet depth of 3/8 x 3/8 for the glass. The glass I'm using is 3/16 of an inch, which would leave another 3/16" to fill. Normally the picture frame is filled with matting and a backing soy can hang it on a wall. Obviously I'm using it for a window so the question is how to assemble the frame with the glass against the metal on the doors. The metal is 22 gauge. Should I use some sort of gasket material top and bottom of the glass? So the gasket would be against the oval frame and the metal so in a sense the glass would be sandwiched in-between gasket material top and bottom or jut put the gasket just below the glass? I made a simple drawing for you to look at and offer your opinions.... The drawing is not to scale.
Thanks
Mike

Window Glass.pdf

(1.1 MiB) Downloaded 53 times

[mtntee20]

MIke, I am faced with a similar situation. I have a plan with taking the oval frame and mounting it to the door with oval head bolts and nuts, with the nuts on the inside. Once I am satisfied with the mounting, I will remove the frame. From the inside of the rabbet, gasket material of appropriate thickness. Next, glass, and then another layer of appropriate thickness gasket. From this point I am thinking it will be necessary to secure the glass into the frame, just well enough to retain the glass while mounting the frame(with glass and gaskets) back onto the door. The gasket materials could be self stick foam or rubber. It could also be a caulking out of a tube. With this choice, the caulking should be paint-able or of a type and color acceptable without paint. Using a caulking might alter the assembly steps: Lay caulking in rabbet, place glass on caulking, fix glass to frame and allow caulking to cure. When cured, add caulking to glass in rabbet and mount frame on door. An U.V. light proof or resistant will be important. Silicone has plusses and minuses. Silicone is long lasting, has good U.V. resistance but generally does not take paint well. Using a high quality self stick weather strip may be a better option. Assembling the glass and frame together prior to mounting the assembled unit on the door, eliminates many problems. Still a 2 person job in my mind.

[Tbird]

Terry, I’d be interested to see your project. Do you have frames yet? Would your bolts be like studded into the wood from the back?

[Henry K. Lee]

Let's keep it real simple lil boys and girls!



How To Draw an Ellipse | Ask This Old House "YOU TUBE"

[mtntee20]

Hi Mike,

I have a TT C-cab with a small oval window in the back panel. Haven't been able to find the correct size ring. I know they are out there, I just have landed one yet.

The Delivery truck has rectangular windows but I was thinking of mounting them the same as an oval.

There are 6 windows; 2 back doors, 2 front doors, and 2 right behind the front doors. I was thinking of using stove bolts with the heads to the outside. The rest of the truck is put together with stove bolts so the new ones would blend right in. Head outside, washers and self locking (Nylock) nut on the inside and cut the excess bolt threads off even with the nut to minimize anything/anybody getting caught up on them.

[Tbird]

Terry,
Is that one of Dave’s bodies?

[Scott_Conger]

elipse
patterns
wood shaper with ball bearing guide
done
get the shirt

BTW - you're doing very nice work and are to be commended for the professional looking results

[mtntee20]

Yes It IS. My wife and I purchased my late best friends two favorite trucks. I helped with parts and labor on the C-Cab. I turned him on to Courier when he wanted to build another truck. I helped unbox the body, set the floor, firewall and one side. When we purchased it, he had it at about 95% and I have basically finished it. Having carb. problems so haven't driven it much yet. Hope to change that in a short while. We are keeping his legacy alive as best we can.

[Tbird]

I may not have been clear in my original post…. I’m seeking advice on how to best mount the glass in the oval frame in the doors. The oval frame has a 3/8 x 3/8 rabbet. The glass is 3/16 of an inch thick which would leave another 3/16 to fill. Should I use some sort of gasket material between the metal and the backer thus sandwiching the glass between the gaskets?
Thanks

[mtntee20]

Yes, I believe you should use gasket material, of some kind, on both sides of the glass. This will cushion the glass and prevent any stresses in the body from being transferred to the glass. Thus, preventing cracking or breaking of the glass. Stresses can be from driving (body flex) and more likely thermal expansion/contraction from heat/cold, The gasket material will also dampen/prevent shock/impact from the body to the glass.

Good Luck

[George Mills]

My view would be that if I were going the stock oval frame route and faced what you are facing, I'd do it like it most probably was way back when.

Way-back-when ... glass panels in rabbets and curves...

- Panel goes in against the wood, with wood face down...watch your margins for not too much room.

----(not part of old way, but a thought...add 4 glass points along the inner glass edge at 12 - 3 - 6 - 9 before proceeding)

- Get a piece of sisal cord, the wonkier and closer to paper the better. 3/16 sounds the size, 1/4" would prob work too if you crush it flatter while drying.

- Cut the cord 1/2" longer than the glass perimeter.

- Run the sisal cord through a pan of shellac.

- Carefully seat the cord so that it has shellac against the bare wood AND the glass.

- At the overlap seam you can either flush cut it and it will be fine, or skive cut it (overlapping angle cut) like the old pros did it.

- Allow it to dry, scrape any shellac that shows on the glass away...

All done...

Leaves the entire rest of rim available for however you mount it to the body and would be period or earlier correct.

[Tbird]

My view would be that if I were going the stock oval frame route and faced what you are facing, I'd do it like it most probably was way back when.

Way-back-when ... glass panels in rabbets and curves...

- Panel goes in against the wood, with wood face down...watch your margins for not too much room.

----(not part of old way, but a thought...add 4 glass points along the inner glass edge at 12 - 3 - 6 - 9 before proceeding)

- Get a piece of sisal cord, the wonkier and closer to paper the better. 3/16 sounds the size, 1/4" would prob work too if you crush it flatter while drying.

- Cut the cord 1/2" longer than the glass perimeter.

- Run the sisal cord through a pan of shellac.

- Carefully seat the cord so that it has shellac against the bare wood AND the glass.

- At the overlap seam you can either flush cut it and it will be fine, or skive cut it (overlapping angle cut) like the old pros did it.

- Allow it to dry, scrape any shellac that shows on the glass away...

All done...

Leaves the entire rest of rim available for however you mount it to the body and would be period or earlier correct.

George and I’m very interested in what you propose here…