New vs old gas shut off valves

[1925 Touring]

So i ordered 2 gas shut off valves that are the 90 degree that go by the carburetor from langs. Whats the difference betweed the old ones and new ones?

[Moxie26]

The. "old" one is activated by the sediment bowl lever, the new shutoff installed at the carb came after production ceased.

[Norman Kling]

Main reason is to avoid crawling under the car to shut it off.
Norm

[JTT3]

Austin about 4 feet and you don’t crawl under the car.

[Dan Hatch]

Guys: I think he is asking what is different between the old right angle carb mount cutoffs and the new right angle carb mounted cutoffs.

I have been told that the new ones have been known to leak. I have not used any new ones, just reporting what I have heard.

[Allan]

My "old" one not only leaked, it became very hard to turn off/on without pliers.

Allan from down under.

[tom_strickling]

Are you talking about flat handle VS rounded handle, both fairly modern?

[CudaMan]

My 1924 has the newer, "flat handle" valve. Once a month or so, I disassemble the valve and lubricate it with "EZ-turn", available from the vendors.

https://www.modeltford.com/item/2902LUB.aspx

[George Mills]

I know this is going to sound a bit unsafe, but it works for me.

Round handle, 90 degree valve. Works good for a while, then wants to stick and/or leak.

For the 'stick' on opening, a pull tension upwards while turning, case closed...works and does not stick.

For the leak on closing, when closed I give it a tap with a wrench, no leaks! Forget to tap? Get a puddle.

Someone above recently said to rebuild it with a sealing goo from time to time and that's probably the best solution...I've thought of a toothpaste lap...but I think that may make even more 'stick' if it isn't lubed?

[RajoRacer]

George has the correct procedure for both types of valves - simply lift up a smidge off the seat BEFORE turning then simply apply a bit of downward pressure - no leaks !

[dobro1956]

I have always did the same procedure as George on all the "taper seat" type of valves. That includes the oil peacocks on the crankcase. I keep the pliers easy to find in the tool kit and use them to open or close the valves. After closing the valves just a light tap or two with the pliers to re-seat the taper, and never any leaks.

[Original Smith]

I like the old design, because it really looked period correct. I'm lucky to have one on all of my cars.

[RajoRacer]

I agree Larry - they appear to have been made like the original oil /radiator petcocks. The newer repro style has a shorter spring and a screw holding it together.

[1925 Touring]

Guys: I think he is asking what is different between the old right angle carb mount cutoffs and the new right angle carb mounted cutoffs.

I have been told that the new ones have been known to leak. I have not used any new ones, just reporting what I have heard.

Yes, this is what I mean. I have only been in the hobby a few years, and i heard on an earlier thread how they don't make.the old ones anymore, and they were apparently better than the onea they have now? I was asking since i dont have any experiences with the old design.

[1925 Touring]

This is what i ordered.

[RajoRacer]

That style works just fine IF you take the time to lift the handle up just a smidge BEFORE turning. It's alot better than some of the cobbled up plumbing store hardware I've seen installed !

[South Park Zephyr]

I have a new one I purchased from Lang’s. I too found over time that it became more difficult to operate, to the point of using pliers to turn it. I took it apart thinking that debris might be causing the issue. What I found was after cleaning, it worked fine for a while then reverted back to almost impossible to turn. Upon the second or third disassembly I chose not to tighten the screw that secures the valve as tight as it would go. I think the spring tension against the screw holding it together is too much, pulling the taper valve too deep into the body. My solution was to back the screw off a bit. To keep it in place, I staked a couple of threads a bit to provide interference to the valve body. It has been working fine now for several months without leaking or becoming progressively difficult to use.

Scott