Manifold Gasket Assembly

[Hudson29]

I have consulted the T-1 manual and find the manifold gasket assembly is dealt with in only two sentences that seem to indicate the copper rings go into the manifold rather than the cylinder block. I checked this site hoping for a nice exploded view of the assembly but found nothing that addresses the issue.

When installing the manifolds does the copper ring go into the manifolds or the block? Any tricks to getting the rings and glands to assemble smoothly?

BTW, the motor is most likely a '19.

Paul, still trying to get this car back together

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

The copper rings don't go into anything. They go between the manifolds and the side face of the engine block. Steel gland rings go into both the manifold and the engine bock. The gland rings keep the manifolds aligned and also support the copper rings, (crush rings).

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[TRDxB2]

Didn't have pictures so I borrowed some from the internet & modified
Once you have the rings in place into the block with the copper rings around them - setting the exhaust & intake manifolds can be made easy by making a simple tool. Cut off one ear of each of to manifold clamps. Set the exhaust manifold in place and hold them there with the clamps in the outer positions. Then place the intake manifold in place and use the regular clamps in the inner positions to hold both manifolds. Replace the short clamps with the full ones. Done

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Some use high temp seal to hold the gland rings & copper ring in place as well

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[George House]

“Tricks to get the rings and glands to assemble smoothly”?
After the six manifold ports and six engine ports are thoroughly cleaned, I put some Permatex around the 2 assembled ring/gland units and place them in the 2 engine intake ports. I then place 2 of the half manifold clamps to temporarily hold the intake manifold to the block. Be sure the intake fairly ‘snaps’ onto the glands in the block then tighten the half clamps. Similarly assemble 4 sets of rings/glands and affix them to the block with permatex and ‘snap’ the good exhaust manifold onto them and tighten 2 full manifold clamps onto both manifolds. Then replace the 2 half clamps with permanent full clamps. Then tighten the 4 nuts after they’re hot.

[George House]

Frank beat me by a minute

[John kuehn]

The manifolds will go together fairly easy on the block. BUT if the exhaust manifold is warped slightly it won’t go easily together or not at all. That’s why you use to see flat manifold gaskets in T engine gasket sets. I haven’t bought one in a good while and I’m assuming they still do.

Hopefully your exhaust manifold is not warped so it can go together without any alignment issues.

[Steve Jelf]

I made a pair of installation clamps because I dislike the idea of cutting up original parts.


If your exhaust manifold is warped, you can buy a new one, or...
https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG82.html

[Hudson29]

Thanks guys, your descriptions and Jerry's drawing made the situation quite clear. If I had the parts on hand I could have seen at a glance how the assembly worked. This car had some very nice one piece gland/gaskets when I took it apart and so I ordered the same ones. They would not allow the manifold to fit even though it looked pretty straight. A new manifold proved just the same. The manifolds both acted like they were a 1/16 or so too long to fit. Both new & old manifolds fit fine with the old one piece gland/gaskets. URRRGH!!

I ordered the two piece ring/gland style and am still waiting for the post office to get around to delivering them. BTW, the post seems to take twice as long as just a couple of years ago to deliver Model T parts . . .

If the assembly doesn't after the parts finally arrive I may just reuse the old parts after suitable cleanup and with some of the new gasket goop that has worked so well elsewhere.

Paul

[Allan]

The strip of thin steel rolled into a ring is not the best gland. The split allows them to warp and dislodge when the exhaust heats them. I have found a number of them in all sorts of shape, especially at the rear exhaust port. A far superior gland ring can be made from an appropriately sized piece of exhaust pipe. Just cut them off with a chop saw and trim/file off the swarf.

The gland rings are also supposed to keep the exhaust manifold aligned while the car is in operation. If the manifold is bent, it will not allow a full set of rings to fit properly. Using a one piece gasket relies on the clamping force to keep the manifold in place. Without a solid gland ring, it can migrate up and down on the block face, and with repeated heat cycles, the manifold can bend even further.

If your manifold is straight, the best gaskets/rings are the six thick, one piece ones the vendors sell.

If your manifold is bent, the bend may be compensated for and still allow you to fit it with a full set of gland rings. This same tip will allow you to fit the new manifold you have. You need an offset gland ring. Place a straight edge along the ports in the manifold and measure how far the back port is out of line. Cut two gland rings from the piece of the previously mentioned piece of exhaust pipe and clean them up. Stack them on a clay brick and offset them by the measurement of the bend in the manifold. Then weld them up around the inside, With a bit of trimming and filing, you have an offset ring which will allow the manifold to be fitted with full support as it should be. On an early manifold I have used this trick on both the front and back ports, rather than resort to a new manifold which doesn't look like the old originals.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.