Ideas on successful transport plan

[apecrap]

I'm working on getting my grandma's Model T out of the shed (backyard of house) where it's been parked for the last 50ish years (Part 1), then transported cross country NJ -> CO (Part 2). I'm generally looking for any inputs/opinions, and please even state the obvious, as I'm new to all of this.

Part 1 Challenges:
1. Tires are not just flat; one or two have gashes.
2. Pictures tell the story, but it doesn't run.
3. Parts are everywhere.
4. Terrain to get it out of the shed is grassy and rocky (covered in leaves in the picture) and tight.

Pros: I will have family to help me with the move (cousins, parents, sibling, aunt, spouse), and they are all really excited for this and so happy that the Model T will stay in the family.
My current thought process is to follow what someone advised to do in general in my other post: bag and label all loose parts for transit. Then I'm thinking to do as much research as I can regarding changing tires on a Model T. If I can get the tires changed and inflated, I can then, with the help of my other youthful family members, push it out of the shed. My cousin who lives nearby has some connections with a tow truck. It might be too tight to fit a tow truck to pull the vehicle out of the shed, but could be useful to get it out of the yard and around the house. The outdoor picture shows the shed on the left (with the vehicle), and my brother (5'6" tall) for perspective on the area we have to work with.

I'd like to get opinions/thoughts/ideas on if my thought process is complete. Would you do something alternative to changing the tires? Do anything in addition?

Part 2: I began using the recommendations from my first post and started investigating the classified ads. However, my parents are incredibly enthused about helping and willing to make the drive (they've towed their camping trailer cross-country many times, so towing long days is not new to them). Then friends actually lined up with trailers to borrow (all appropriately weight-rated, but not enclosed). I am somewhat partial to taking up my friends and family on the offer for assistance, as I'm super excited that everyone else is so excited to help me with my new project. However, I'd like any opinions/experience on towing yourself, tying down the vehicle, and on whether it's really "a good idea" (I guess I mean tell me your horror stories). My main concerns with hiring someone are the timeline and scheduling, as I can see many things going awry in Part 1, so bringing in a third party to the chaos sounds more stressful (especially when that person has a schedule to stick to as well) and I really don't want to screw anyone over with a plan that fell through.

[TFan]

Audrey, Welcome to the hobby. Before you try to move the car make sure the emergency brake lever is about half way down this way you have as close to neutral as you can get. By doing this you at least may be able to move it without damaging something in the driveline. Jim

[Allan]

Audrey, you have a good project on your hands. The family connection makes it more valuable to yourself. That family connection will be of great help with your project. Include as many of them in your endeavours as you can. Having a family member to do the move is a great benefit in this as it will get personal attention. There will be many helpful ideas to help you with preparing the car for transport. It would be great if there is a T model person near to the car so that they can advise/help with the loading/shift.

Details from the photos indicate it is likely a late teens car. The wheels are non-demountable, meaning that the tyres are mounted directly to the wheels rather than on a separate removable rim. New tyres would need to be fitted in-situ. You are correct in thinking that they would make it easier to move. However, The wheels themselves may need work. Fitting new tyres may be better left until the condition of the wheels is up to scratch.

Good luck with your project. You are about to join a very rewarding hobby and making a whole new bunch of friends.

Allan from down under.

[Russ T Fender]

You might find that the tires will air up and hold air long enough to move the car to your trailer. If not you may be able to drag it in place. If you are careful the rims won’t be ruined even if the tires come off since it looks like you will be going over dirt, not pavement. I think your bigger issue is dealing with all the loose parts if you have an open trailer. Securing everything on an open trailer would be difficult for a short run but trying to make it cross country at high speed would be a real challenge.

[Steve Jelf]

I have never moved a T with an enclosed trailer. My open trailer and one rental have been quite adequate. You can search other posts for details on the best loading methods. As much as you can, make the move in decent weather. Driving my gas hog Chebby I set my speed limit at 55 mph. This saves some fuel, but it also avoids damage that can result from towing at freeway speeds.

Some may warn you about towing a T. With the car in neutral (handle straight up) it will be fine for towing around the yard or onto a trailer. Towing for miles is a no-no.

If your 1918 has the right wheels it takes clincher tires. The lowest initial expense will be Wards Riversides. The best tyres are Blockley, but the shipping from Britain is too much for some folks. Here again, Google is your friend. We've had discussions where you'll find a lot of good info on tires. I wish I could be in Joisey and show how to mount clinchers. A lot of people struggle with that, but I've done it enough to make it not such a big deal. Two things are practically required: 1 Good irons (HF has nice long ones [24"] pretty cheap.) 2 An inflation device. Filling a tire with a hand pump is way too much work.

https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG127.clinchers.html

[RecklessKelly]

Looks like a neat relic! To make it easier to roll out, lay some plywood or chipboard down in its tracks. Pull the sparkplugs out and put a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder and replace them after its up on the flatbead. That way if its partially stuck in gear the engine will spin, it wont plow its way out.

[Ed Fuller]

My advice, keep it simple and don’t overthink it.

If the majority of the distance it has to be towed is on grass, don’t even bother messing with the tires. Put the handbrake straight vertical and tow it across the yard to wherever the trailer will be parked. The rims shouldn’t get damaged even if the tires are flat and completely falling apart.

Load it up and tow it home!

[walber]

With the hand brake vertical and a little oil in each cylinder, drag it out of the shed and onto grass or possibly scrap plywood.

Plan a way to stash all the loose parts in the bed of the tow vehicle (or van if it is one). Best to strap down or secure the loose stuff in the tow vehicle rather than an open trailer. Less wind buffeting that way.

When ready to load up, take the trailer to the car if possible. Use a winch (electric?) to drag the chassis up on the trailer. I strap for and aft from the axles to the trailer. Lots of opinions on strapping but I've never had an issue over 40 years and many thousands of miles. If the ramps are ladder type, use plywood or similar to provide a smooth ramp surface.

Strap or otherwise secure anything on the car that might be able to come loose or flap in the wind. Get a good nights sleep, fill the tank on the tow rig and head West.

BTW, tires would be one of the last thing that I would be buying for this project. Once in it's new home get some wheel skates (or the small furniture dollies from HF) to move it around in your garage, shop or storage spot.

Enjoy a fun project!

[DHort]

Make another post with the subject 'Need help in New Jersey'.

There are 2 clubs in New Jersey. Hopefully a member will see your post
and their club can help you out.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

My advice, keep it simple and don’t overthink it.

If the majority of the distance it has to be towed is on grass, don’t even bother messing with the tires. Put the handbrake straight vertical and tow it across the yard to wherever the trailer will be parked. The rims shouldn’t get damaged even if the tires are flat and completely falling apart.

Load it up and tow it home!

Great advice!

[TXGOAT2]

I'd try to air up the tires. Don't put over 20 PSI in them, if any hold air. It would be VERY helpful to have someone with T experience on hand, perhaps a club member, when the car is moved out of the shed to assess the car and identify loose parts, etc. Personally, I want an enclosed trailer to retain loose items and keep the (censored) (censored) road salt off the car. If at all possible, I'd leave the car right where it is until winter is past. In the mean time, adding oil to the cylinders as suggested and oiling and greasing the car, including door hinges latches, top iron joints, fan hub, etc. would be advisable. Trying to move a car across country right now is just not a good idea, and I'd avoid it if possible. You can expect the weather and road conditions and holiday situations to work against you at every turn.

[TXGOAT2]

If you have help on hand, rope, chains, and a pair of come alongs can be used to move the car out of the shed and across the yard. Tie off to trees or a vehicle and move the car with the come alongs. If the wheels turn, it may be possible for two or more people to push the car. Be sure to use the hand lever properly to have the car in neutral and the parking brakes released. Avoid pulling sideways on the car, since that might collapse a wheel. Never tie any kind of tow line or tie down to the center part of either axle

[tdump]

About any golf cart or atv , or heavy duty garden tractor, should be able to pull the T out from where it is to a place a roll back can load it. t's are not that heavy.

[ModelT46]

The engine number (serial number) is on the block just above the water outlet. post the number. that will indicate the year of the T. The engine is probably the original one.

[Steve Jelf]

Darel is correct, but it's the inlet on the side of the engine that has the serial number stamped above it.

[RecklessKelly]

You could make a nice speedster with what you have there.

[apecrap]

I'm so thankful for all this help - I won't be worrying too much about the tires then! I should have mentioned that I'm looking to plan transit April or later so as to avoid weather issues.

As for the engine number, we weren't quite sure which one it was. Per the comments, it seems it's the 29869102? one which is unreadable towards the end. The family always said it was a 1918 but per the encyclopedia, it looks to be a 1919 with that number. Does anyone have tips on deducing the last digits? Or advice on totally not destroying the number stamping since it's in already poor condition?

[RajoRacer]

Wire brush the number boss real good - it should only have 7 numbers - the block casting dates appears to be a 3/25/19 looks to me.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I'm so thankful for all this help - I won't be worrying too much about the tires then! I should have mentioned that I'm looking to plan transit April or later so as to avoid weather issues.

As for the engine number, we weren't quite sure which one it was. Per the comments, it seems it's the 29869102? one which is unreadable towards the end. The family always said it was a 1918 but per the encyclopedia, it looks to be a 1919 with that number. Does anyone have tips on deducing the last digits? Or advice on totally not destroying the number stamping since it's in already poor condition?

There is no "last digit". The actual last digit is "0". Another digit would make the serial number 29 million & something. That's not a possible Ford s/n. So, 2,986,910 would be 1919.

[Steve Jelf]

Engine #2,986,910 was made on Wednesday, March 26, 1919.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Engine #2,986,910 was made on Wednesday, March 26, 1919.

On that day in Detroit, the high temperature was 54F and the low was 40F, with no precipitation.

[George Mills]

If you hum a few bars about where in NJ, you might be surprised about the guys who would be willing to stop over and give a view if not play a bit for you...T guys are generally like that. Unfortunately wrong time of the year for me...but I know a guy, who knows a guy, who knows yet another guy...lol...its' like that...

[A Whiteman]

I am somewhat partial to taking up my friends and family on the offer for assistance, as I'm super excited that everyone else is so excited to help me with my new project.

Great idea, it makes the difference

Good luck in the process, (and welcome to the hobby).

[jiminbartow]

Over 20 years ago, I hauled my 1926 Model T coupe over 1,225 miles from York, Maine to my home in Bartow, Florida using a rented U-Haul open car hauling trailer. I had my own 12v battery operated winch which I used to pull my T onto the trailer, but if you don’t have one, see if U-Haul has winches you can rent to pull the Model T onto the trailer. Pull off anything that can blow off such as the hood and floor boards and put the parts in the cab of your vehicle. If you have a pickup truck, all the better. There are signs on the fenders of the trailer not to exceed 55mph, but I found myself going 70 to 75 mph on the Interstate with no trouble at all. No swaying or vibrations. Very strong, solid and well built trailers. Drive safe.

IMG_9130.jpeg (102.12 KiB) Viewed 3790 times

[OilyBill]

20 years ago, I attended a fellow club member's family sale of a HUGE collection of Model T Parts. I wound up getting a complete 1926 chassis, but it had no wheels. I was stressing over how I was going to move it.

One of the senior members of the club had a simple solution.

He said: Come over to my house! I have PLENTY of rims! Just throw 4 rims on the car, and move it wherever you like! Then, when you are done, bring them back to me.

My response was "Aren't they going to get damaged, just rolling on bare rims?"

He laughed and said, "That chassis complete is probably only 1000 lbs, IF THAT! If you are just rolling it, across this muddy yard, and putting it on a trailer, the rims will be JUST FINE! Try not to roll it too far across hard concrete, but dirt and grass, and even gravel, won't affect those rims! If those rims can't carry 250 lbs each, then Henry wouldn't have put them on a car in the first place! Try and bend a rim with 250 lbs, and let me know if you ever can do it!"

And so we did it, and the rims held up fine!

So don't even worry about your flat tires. Think of them as pads that will protect your rims from getting their paint scratched! As long as you get the car into neutral, it will roll over that ground with no problem. If the tow truck has enough cable length, you might be able to do the entire retrieval with one cable hookup, and drag it out to the trailer! Most tow trucks have retrieval cables that are at least 100 feet long. wreckers don't go into the ditch to get the car, they drag the car up to were the wrecker is waiting for it.

You might have some paint scratches, but I think that won't be a major problem!

Good luck with the car! Parts, help, and advice are freely available from a HUGE Model T Community! You will probably look at your experiences with this car as some of the best in your entire life!

[Dave Young]

Is the car in North Jersey or South Jersey? We T-Tinkers are in South Jersey and would definitely give you a hand if it’s down our way. Shoot me a text sometime. Dave Young, Mays Landing, NJ. 609-289-0677