Camshaft nut.
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Topic author - Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
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Camshaft nut.
I had to replace a worn large timing gear today. As usual, the original nut was butchered and pitted around the sea surface.
This tool is T2333, camshaft gear nut wrench.
It is useless as is. The crank in the handle guarantees it will crank off the nut, butchering it on the way.
I made a "keeper" of sorts. The large washer goes over the nut, the collar goes over the nut flange and the timer nut holds it all in place, keeping the wrench firmly engaged. Then I can even use a hammer to tighten the nut, with nofear of it damaging anything. Allan from down under.
This tool is T2333, camshaft gear nut wrench.
It is useless as is. The crank in the handle guarantees it will crank off the nut, butchering it on the way.
I made a "keeper" of sorts. The large washer goes over the nut, the collar goes over the nut flange and the timer nut holds it all in place, keeping the wrench firmly engaged. Then I can even use a hammer to tighten the nut, with nofear of it damaging anything. Allan from down under.
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Re: Camshaft nut.
Thats a good idea, there's nothing I dislike more is buggered up fasteners.
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Re: Camshaft nut.
I also utilize original Ford tools if it's the best for the task but in this case, I prefer this one:
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/prod ... &cat=41910
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/prod ... &cat=41910
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Re: Camshaft nut.
I bought the cam nut socket from Snyders, T-3050-BT. Has a 7/8” hex so you can use a socket and torque wrench. As a plush it also works well on front outer wheel bearings.
Andy
Andy
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Topic author - Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Camshaft nut.
I bought the wrench in a junk shop for $1.00. At that price I could gamble on it being for a T, that gamble being made on the T2333 number on it. It is an early tool, later being given a 3Z number.
The crankshaft to flywheel bolt tool suffers the same cranking off problem, well before those are at a suitable tension. I use a modified ring spanner on those.
Allan from down under.
The crankshaft to flywheel bolt tool suffers the same cranking off problem, well before those are at a suitable tension. I use a modified ring spanner on those.
Allan from down under.
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Re: Camshaft nut.
The Model A Spark Plug wrench, looks just like a T plug wrench, fits the T cam nut perfectly.
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Topic author - Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Camshaft nut.
It's not the fit of the wrench that is the problem. It is the fact that the load applied when tightening the nut is not in line with the nut that causes the wrench to twist off the flats. The better flywheel cap screw wrenches have long handles and three right angle bends to clear the flywheel magnets and bring the handle end back in line with the socket head on the other end.
The Stevens tool shown would have the same problem, IF the handle was not centred over the nut. Because the handle is of equal length either side of the tool head, the load is applied evenly to the nut so it will not cant off.
Allan from down under.
The Stevens tool shown would have the same problem, IF the handle was not centred over the nut. Because the handle is of equal length either side of the tool head, the load is applied evenly to the nut so it will not cant off.
Allan from down under.