27 Touring body blocks
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Topic author - Posts: 267
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:36 pm
- First Name: Brent
- Last Name: Mize
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Sport Touring & 1927 Sport Runabout
- Location: Reynoldsburg, Oh
27 Touring body blocks
Hi All,
I’m still confused as to how the body blocks sit in the channels under my 27 touring. Does the rabbitted cutout face up or down? Do the blocks attach to the body before dropping the body? Something so simple seems confusing. I didn't take this part of the car apart so there was no photo of the originals. I’ve searched past posts and can only get a few fuzzy photos that really don’t show what I’m looking for. Your help is appreciated.
I’m still confused as to how the body blocks sit in the channels under my 27 touring. Does the rabbitted cutout face up or down? Do the blocks attach to the body before dropping the body? Something so simple seems confusing. I didn't take this part of the car apart so there was no photo of the originals. I’ve searched past posts and can only get a few fuzzy photos that really don’t show what I’m looking for. Your help is appreciated.
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- First Name: Henry
- Last Name: Lee
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- Location: South Pittsburg, TN
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Re: 27 Touring body blocks
Brent if you notice there are some areas where there are 3/16" holes where the body bolts mount on the frame on the inside of the subframe. There is also some up toward the front under the the floor board channels for sheet metal screws to assist in the attachment of the splash aprons. Hope this helps.., I used popular for these.
Hank
Hank
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- First Name: Mike
- Last Name: Silbert
- Location: Sykesville Md
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Re: 27 Touring body blocks
Brent,
The "notch" goes up and out to clear the rivet heads fastening the body cross members to the body frame rails.
They are held in the body with a flat head wood screw down from the top into the blocks.
Underneath the splash apron screws with washers to the blocks to secure the aprons.
Here is the hardware list off of my original car:
Model T Ford Early 26 touring body bolts
Qty Thread Length Head
7/16-20 Hex Nut 11/16" Wrench
7/16 Lock Washer
7/16 Flat Wash 1 1/8"
2 3/8-16 Hex Nut 11/16" Wrench
2 3/8 Lock Washer
2 7/16-20 3.5 Hex
2 7/16-20 2.25 Hex
2 7/16-20 1 Hex Front
2 3/8-16 2.125 Carriage Bolt Second
6 1/4-20 1/2" Square Nuts
6 1/4" Lock Washer
6 1/4" Flat Washer 3/4"
6 1/4-20 1/2 Round Slotted
4 #12 1" Slotted Flat Head Wood Screw Splash Apron
4 1/4" Flat Washer 3/4"
The "notch" goes up and out to clear the rivet heads fastening the body cross members to the body frame rails.
They are held in the body with a flat head wood screw down from the top into the blocks.
Underneath the splash apron screws with washers to the blocks to secure the aprons.
Here is the hardware list off of my original car:
Model T Ford Early 26 touring body bolts
Qty Thread Length Head
7/16-20 Hex Nut 11/16" Wrench
7/16 Lock Washer
7/16 Flat Wash 1 1/8"
2 3/8-16 Hex Nut 11/16" Wrench
2 3/8 Lock Washer
2 7/16-20 3.5 Hex
2 7/16-20 2.25 Hex
2 7/16-20 1 Hex Front
2 3/8-16 2.125 Carriage Bolt Second
6 1/4-20 1/2" Square Nuts
6 1/4" Lock Washer
6 1/4" Flat Washer 3/4"
6 1/4-20 1/2 Round Slotted
4 #12 1" Slotted Flat Head Wood Screw Splash Apron
4 1/4" Flat Washer 3/4"
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- Posts: 3845
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘12 open express,'23 cutoff, '27 touring
- Location: North Central FL
- Board Member Since: 2000
- Contact:
Re: 27 Touring body blocks
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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Topic author - Posts: 267
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:36 pm
- First Name: Brent
- Last Name: Mize
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Sport Touring & 1927 Sport Runabout
- Location: Reynoldsburg, Oh
Re: 27 Touring body blocks
Thanks all for your help!
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- Posts: 343
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 11:11 pm
- First Name: Eric
- Last Name: Macleod
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 13 Touring, 26 Touring (2006 Stynoski), 27 Fordor, 27 Fordor, '92 Stynoski, 'owner emeritus
- Location: Battle Creek, Michigan
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: 27 Touring body blocks
Brent, if it would help (even though it's a drive) you are welcome to crawl under my '26 Touring to look at the placement of the blocks or I can take some photos if you want specific angles. I think mine is "fairly accurate."
Eric
Eric
1913 Touring
1925 Touring
1926 Touring (2006 Stynoski)
1927 Fordor (2)
1927 Touring
Stynoski 1992, Nash, Franklin, Lincoln, Cadillac and Buick owner emeritus
1925 Touring
1926 Touring (2006 Stynoski)
1927 Fordor (2)
1927 Touring
Stynoski 1992, Nash, Franklin, Lincoln, Cadillac and Buick owner emeritus
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Topic author - Posts: 267
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:36 pm
- First Name: Brent
- Last Name: Mize
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Sport Touring & 1927 Sport Runabout
- Location: Reynoldsburg, Oh
Re: 27 Touring body blocks
Thanks all. I think I have it figured out.
I’m just still not sure how they are attached to the body so that they stay in place while we lift the body.
Are they screwed to the rails in some way?
I can’t find any holes where wood screws would attach them to the body prior to installing body in chassis.
I’m just still not sure how they are attached to the body so that they stay in place while we lift the body.
Are they screwed to the rails in some way?
I can’t find any holes where wood screws would attach them to the body prior to installing body in chassis.
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- Posts: 3845
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘12 open express,'23 cutoff, '27 touring
- Location: North Central FL
- Board Member Since: 2000
- Contact:
Re: 27 Touring body blocks
By 27 guess perhaps no screw holes in subframe, so just insert the blocks and body bolts on the body to frame brackets will secure the blocks.
On this early 26 runabout the blocks were screwed to the subframe channels.
And use screws to secure the splash shield edges to the blocks to reduce the gaps and prevent rattle.
On this early 26 runabout the blocks were screwed to the subframe channels.
And use screws to secure the splash shield edges to the blocks to reduce the gaps and prevent rattle.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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- Posts: 81
- Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 11:30 pm
- First Name: Mike
- Last Name: Silbert
- Location: Sykesville Md
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: 27 Touring body blocks
On the early '26 touring the blocks are screwed Into the subframe / crossmember with 1 wood screw from the top.
The screw is located just outside the body bolt hole and just inside the rivet holes.
It could easily be mistaken for a rivet hole since it is right there next to the rivets.
The screw goes into the thicker (non rabbeted) part of the block to hold it securly.
The screw is located just outside the body bolt hole and just inside the rivet holes.
It could easily be mistaken for a rivet hole since it is right there next to the rivets.
The screw goes into the thicker (non rabbeted) part of the block to hold it securly.
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- Posts: 81
- Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 11:30 pm
- First Name: Mike
- Last Name: Silbert
- Location: Sykesville Md
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: 27 Touring body blocks
Here is a picture or the holding screw on my original early '26 touring
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Topic author - Posts: 267
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:36 pm
- First Name: Brent
- Last Name: Mize
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Sport Touring & 1927 Sport Runabout
- Location: Reynoldsburg, Oh
Re: 27 Touring body blocks
Thanks Mike,
My 27 does not have screw holes.
Is that a carriage bolt for the mounting bolt?
Thanks so much for all your info!
Brent
My 27 does not have screw holes.
Is that a carriage bolt for the mounting bolt?
Thanks so much for all your info!
Brent
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- Posts: 81
- Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 11:30 pm
- First Name: Mike
- Last Name: Silbert
- Location: Sykesville Md
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: 27 Touring body blocks
While my early '26 touring made it to me quite original and unrestored without excessive wear there are a few things that make you think.
And not just how it survived being in a barn that collapsed on it.
Only body bolts #2 on both sides are 3/8 carriage bolts with washers. The rest are all the expected 7/16-20 bolts.
I can not prove for sure if they belong or not but I put them back when I lifted the body to fix the engine years ago.
Being a just before Christmas car an assembly line worker may have thrown them in for an easy alignment.
So Yes, it has carriage bolts in the front passenger heel area and has had them for a very long time.
And not just how it survived being in a barn that collapsed on it.
Only body bolts #2 on both sides are 3/8 carriage bolts with washers. The rest are all the expected 7/16-20 bolts.
I can not prove for sure if they belong or not but I put them back when I lifted the body to fix the engine years ago.
Being a just before Christmas car an assembly line worker may have thrown them in for an easy alignment.
So Yes, it has carriage bolts in the front passenger heel area and has had them for a very long time.