How do I get my coils out of the coil box?

[DHort]

I have a 1920 Touring with a dash. The coils are stuck tight. I am sure if I get the first one out the rest will come, but how do I get that first one out? You can only grip 2 sides of the box. If I have to sacrifice the points to pull it up that is OK. I can install new points. Or do I jam some sort of tool in the side and hit that tool with a hammer? Just a suggestion. Thank you.

[brendan.hoban]

Insert a flat bladed screwdriver underneath the bridge on No. 2 or 3 coil, hold is horizontal and tap beneath with a soft hammer. Be gentle and hold that screwdriver horizontal. When you get one out, the rest will follow easily.

[Moxie26]

I would remove the box from the firewall, remove the metal center brace of the box entirely and rivits, then proceed to tap the coils out by hitting the bottom of the box wood to force them out. If they're stuck in the box to begin with, not only do you have to probably dry out the coils wood casings, you'll have to replace the two pieces of coilbox wood along with terminals if necessary.

[Charlie B in N.J.]

It’s been a while but doesn’t that “support rod” as it’s called in Langs that runs through the center of the box have a tab that’s bent over and can be straightened to release it? If so that might give you some play allowing the box side to flex a bit. It that tab can be reached without removing the box there’s some work saved.

[DanTreace]

For difficult coils to remove from that metal box, try wiggling the two coils in the center of the box.

Normally the end coils can be held by the corners of the box. Grasp the standoffs of the bridge, don't grab the point sets, you can usually wiggle back and forth by grabbing onto to the standoff larger nuts and push and pull, and lift.

If still stiff, try the thin plastic nozzle on a spray can of WD-40 to lube between the boxes. That may allow the boxes to pull out. You can't mess with the center tie bar unless you remove the entire box from the firewall.

Sometimes a thin putty knife can slip between two coil boxes and wiggle them sideways. Using a flat blade screwdriver to pry against the metal box is a bit harsh and will dent and gouge the wood case, plus deform the metal.


After the wood boxes are out, before replacing in the metal box, coat the wood surfaces with a good paste wax. Sometimes the wood case sides can also be slightly sanded if the surfaces are rough or damaged.

[Moxie26]

Interesting responses.... Since we were not given a photo picture of what had to be done., for one extreme to another depends on procedure with what you're presented.

[Wayne Sheldon]

They do tend to be a tight fit. Otherwise, loose connections would be causing intermittent misfiring a lot more often. I have had a few that were really tight under deep cowl speedsters that were particularly difficult. Simply grabbing them with your fingers on the point's posts is the best way, but not always adequate.
Usually, a medium size flat blade screwdriver gently placed under the point's bridge, and then lifted will suffice. Words of caution, however? If your T's ignition is fairly well tuned? Be very carful lifting the coils that way as it does not take much pressure under the back of the point's bridge mounting between the posts to significantly alter the firing timing and strength. Taping with a small hammer, or prying with a small wrench or plyers is after all how one adjusts those points! Usually, proper adjustment of the points has the bridge mount tweaked such that the points angle upward somewhat. In that case, holding the screwdriver flatly horizontal will tend to lift the back tap of the point's bridge, and drop the far front point, seriously dropping the amount of electromagnetic pull required to open the points. This will alter the timing on that cylinder, resulting in a rougher running engine.
To avoid altering the timing on a given coil, if lifting the coil out of a tight box, attempt to match the flat side of the screwdriver blade under the point's mounting bridge as you gently lift it. Usually, between the point's desired upward lean and the screwdriver's wedge shape, the handle of the screwdriver will need to angle downward going back away from the coil. I always found it easy to feel the perfect angle to lift and spread the lifting pressure to least disturb the point's adjustment, and would carefully lift it there.

The "coil's" wooden box casing has a tendency to warp over the years, and sometimes can become a bit swollen due to ambient moisture. While your coils are out, use a sanding block and some medium grit sandpaper to smooth and flatten the three sides of the coils, then wax them a bit to make removal easier in the future. Do not overdo the sanding, as that again could lead to loose connections and misfiring.