WTB small drum brake shoes
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Model T Mark
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WTB small drum brake shoes
I need one pair of repo old style small drum two piece lined brake shoe. I know the one piece ones they now make are better. I have one that is broken on a car that was restored years ago and want to keep them the same on both sides. Contact me through this website. Mark Eyre Battle Creek Mi.
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Sarikatime
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Re: WTB small drum brake shoes
Mark, do you need the shoes to have liners or metal only.
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Model T Mark
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Re: WTB small drum brake shoes
Both I was locking for a pair one side with the shoe bonded on.
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Allan
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Re: WTB small drum brake shoes
Mark, do yourself a favour and fit some new one piece ones on both sides. Those old ones are such a trial to get fitting properly, and getting half a set with similarly worn, oil free linings is asking a lot. Don't forget to cut the new ones almost all the way through at the back of the pivot point. Then, when they break, it will be at the pivot bolt and you can carry on as if nothing happened, just like the two piece ones.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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DanTreace
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Re: WTB small drum brake shoes
Mark, checked my junk pile but didn't find any old one piece bonded. 
Cutting them apart was never a Ford thing. Sure you may find old iron shoes cracked at the hole (Ford noted you don't have to remove if just cracked ) and most times busted at the hole from wear or usage. Busted ones can float free of the springs and lock up a wheel. Replacements were always one piece.
Only time ever read from someone back in the day, of cutting a new one piece iron shoe, was if the retaining bolt was rusted tight and the lackluster mechanic didn't want to take the time to install correctly.
Allan, respectfully, the one piece iron shoe is what Ford designed, and the newer one piece bonded shoes now are very nice.Don't forget to cut the new ones almost all the way through at the back of the pivot point. Then, when they break, it will be at the pivot bolt and you can carry on as if nothing happened, just like the two piece ones
Cutting them apart was never a Ford thing. Sure you may find old iron shoes cracked at the hole (Ford noted you don't have to remove if just cracked ) and most times busted at the hole from wear or usage. Busted ones can float free of the springs and lock up a wheel. Replacements were always one piece.
Only time ever read from someone back in the day, of cutting a new one piece iron shoe, was if the retaining bolt was rusted tight and the lackluster mechanic didn't want to take the time to install correctly.
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The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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Allan
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Re: WTB small drum brake shoes
Dan, I believe the main reason the original shoes were cast in one piece was for the convenience and simplicity, to enable easily machining them into the round fit required. Ditto the new replacements. If one has ever tried to fit the previous two piece, cast, lined replacements they will understand the problems getting them to fit and work as they should.
I have seen many original cast iron shoes broken at the pivot bolt hole, and elsewhere. If the break happens at the bolt hole, the return springs, if oriented properly, will keep the shoes in place, as recognised. But if they break elsewhere, all bets are off. I have cut the new ones in two and run them with no problems. I now make the cut about half way through, so that when they do break, they break at the cut and stay in place.
Cast iron is not meant to flex! With worn drums, and linings which wear somewhat quicker than the old cast ones, and the modern propensity to use the handbrake in emergencies, the castings can be expected to take even greater flexing. Inducing a "weak" spot so they break at a known, safe spot that enables continued safe operation makes good sense to me.
Allan from down under.
I have seen many original cast iron shoes broken at the pivot bolt hole, and elsewhere. If the break happens at the bolt hole, the return springs, if oriented properly, will keep the shoes in place, as recognised. But if they break elsewhere, all bets are off. I have cut the new ones in two and run them with no problems. I now make the cut about half way through, so that when they do break, they break at the cut and stay in place.
Cast iron is not meant to flex! With worn drums, and linings which wear somewhat quicker than the old cast ones, and the modern propensity to use the handbrake in emergencies, the castings can be expected to take even greater flexing. Inducing a "weak" spot so they break at a known, safe spot that enables continued safe operation makes good sense to me.
Allan from down under.