'27 headlight rope seal

[Mustang1964s]

OK. I have a silly question.

I have a '27 touring that I am putting new glass and rims on.
They also need the rope seal replaced. One side was missing the other side just peeled off.
What was used to keep the seal in place? Where they built facing up so they really didn't need any stick'em?
Any ideas would be great.

Thank you

Steve B.

[John.Zibell]

I used rubber cement to hold the rope seal in place. Very little is needed.

[perry kete]

I use a little dab of clear silicone caulking. Be sure to leave a small opening at the bottom of the rope seal so moisture / condensation can drain.

[big2bird]

3m weatherstrip adhesive works as well. Glue them on and wait a day. The gap is down as stated.

[Mark Nunn]

I used a few dabs of grease.

[George House]

I used 5 dabs of Permatex - 2 at the bottom 2 ends of the rope and 3 spaced evenly. I liked the idea of scotch tape temporarily.

[TXGOAT2]

"Rubber cement" ought to work. (The stuff sometimes used in offices, not the yellow stuff)

[DanTreace]

Thickness is important too, to prevent lens rattle, the modern nylon cord on left is smaller, the larger cotton cord (like clothes line) with more twists is better.

Originals used a type of black tar like adhesive on the cord seal......

[Mike Silbert]

I have used RTV many time before and will probably do it in the future because it is handy and works great But.....
When RTV cures it generates acetic acid (often added to food and very mild) and this can potentially cause a problem.
Keep RTV away from copper wires and other sensitive items as it will eat them up.
They do make electrical grade RTV for wires and other sensitive surfaces but often I don't have it handy
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/det ... G/10059587

Acetic Acid will tarnish the reflective surface unless it is a hard surface like chrome (which has poor reflectivity).
If (when) you use RTV be careful to not make a mess, get any on the reflector surface and use the minimum amount possible.

When I use it I feel I should be using something better, but it does not stop me.
Mike

[RajoRacer]

I use my wife's electric glue gun !

[TRDxB2]

As its been said thickness is important. This is what I got. Also non-cotton, something that doesn't absorb water is better
Need to remeasure Old supplier Stock but as I recall it was very thin

[Erik Johnson]

It's 1/8" cotton sash cord. It's not hard to find.

Don't know if it is a still a common item at hardware stores but it's readily available online and most likely at your local window blind/drapery/curtain supply.

[Moxie26]

No matter what adhesive you use, just keep the Gap of the two ends directly on the bottom so that if there is any moisture trapped, gravity will be there to help and drain.

[jiminbartow]

From Vowellart in the MTFCA gallery:

[TRDxB2]

Ant thoughts about a bit of anti-size on the retainer positions headlight and/or reflector

[Maineiac]

Ant thoughts about a bit of anti-size on the retainer positions headlight and/or reflector

I would think it unnecessary. Those locking points aren't under serious compression, like the threads of a nut and bolt. Now, a thin bit of grease around the outside of that area might help mitigate any sticking. But with parts in good repair, even that would be unnecessary imo.

My parts, however, are not in good condition. Lol

[Mike Silbert]

While you are up there working, verify the retainers and the pins on the rim are in good shape.
If these fail, the lens does not bounce well off the pavement, I have had it happen.
The brass ones (and nickel plated brass) ones are particularly suspectable to this.

After it is assembled make sure it is properly locked on and then tap on the glass.
If the glass rattles, it is not correct and will fail, the lens must be secure.