Working on my 25 roadster

[Oldrusty26]

Ok guys , finally back to working on my 25 roadster , and of coarse I have some questions , I rebuilt the rear axle and installed the bronze thrust washers etc . My question at this moment is how to the turtle decks match up with the body ? The one I have seems like it’s smaller ( narrower ) than the body . Any photos of figment would be helpful , I’ll attach pictures of what I have so far . Are the decks different for a 25 ?
Thanks in advance .

[KWTownsend]

That looks absolutely correct.

[DanTreace]

Your fit is going well, just align the deck to the rear tub moldings and the lower deck trim.

Then when you bolt it in place and all is good.

[Oldrusty26]

That’s my issue , looks like my turtle deck is smaller than the rest of the deck of the car , is there supposed to be a ledge on the sides and rear like my pictures show ? Love that color blue on the photos you sent.

[Dan Hatch]

Take the deck off and get a real pickup bed. That will solve all your problems. Dan

[Oldrusty26]

I have a 26 roadster pick up already ,lol !!

[DanTreace]

That’s my issue , looks like my turtle deck is smaller than the rest of the deck of the car , is there supposed to be a ledge on the sides and rear like my pictures show ? Love that color blue on the photos you sent.

Just may be how the wood subframe was done, if re-wooded from factory, the sheet metal pieces around the wood subframe should have separate ends, just a tiny gap. On yours looks like body filler on the ends? Could be the subframe was made a tad wider?

On my project, bought it wooded, with metal already on and painted Ford engine blue, did have to fit new primed panels on the lower side, and rear of the subframe, spent some time fitting each to the wood and squared all up. Note in one photo the old original panel (had rust holes) but used to to locate the 3 holes for the rear fender bracket forging.

Good luck, your project will turn out well too.

Turtle deck bolted down on the subframe flooring.

[DanTreace]

Originals to show that the turtle deck is rather set back from the subframe sheetmetal anyway, the Ford was the Low Cost auto you know, gaps and fitment weren't priority

!Bdr,Bn!B2k~$(KGrHqYOKiwEq5SGUCisBK583dfhMg~~_3 (2).jpg (127.83 KiB) Viewed 663 times

[Oldrusty26]

Thanks dan !!

[Oldrusty26]

[image][/image]If I use 26 spindles on my 25 will it sit too low in the front or would it not be noticeable enough to matter?

[Scott_Conger]

It will be noticeable

Now you have to wonder if you have the correct drag link and tie rod...they both came in different lengths depending on year and configuration. You may well be back here 6 months from now asking "why can't I adjust toe-in?

It's easy enough and cheap enough to buy the correct parts - that would be my choice. And it's my advice.

[Oldrusty26]

Thanks !! I appreciate it

[Original Smith]

A true 1925 uses the same front spring as a 1926, which lowers the car about 1 inch. 8 leaf compared to a earlier 7 leaf.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I would be really concerned about the POS battery terminal coming into contact with the battery hold-down.

Bat.png (152.52 KiB) Viewed 455 times

[Oldrusty26]

That’s not my battery photo, I do have the correct springs installed . I have different spindles etc , so no issues to change them out , was just questioning the spindle height difference in the stance .
Thanks

[DanTreace]

I would be really concerned about the POS battery terminal coming into contact with the battery hold-down.


Bat.png

Jerry

That is my photo of a '24 I did and later sold. Always have used Optima 6v batteries and make a holder to secure these oblong cases.

The lower holder is a 3/4" thick board with notches to lock into the straps of the Ford battery carrier. Then wood side braces are screwed and wood glued to the base board..... being added to prevent the oblong battery from moving, the upper wood bar then is used to lock the battery in place. The Ford battery box clamps are used to secure the wood bar.



When locked in place the battery won't move.

I learned my lesson as a teen, put a 6 volt battery in the frame and didn't secure it, figured that dang heavy battery would stay put......well it walked just enough to allow the + cable terminal to hit the battery carrier frame! Like you concerned about....agree with your concern too , but I have always since then secured a battery in that Ford frame.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I would be really concerned about the POS battery terminal coming into contact with the battery hold-down.


Bat.png

Jerry

... the upper wood bar then is used to lock the battery in place. The Ford battery box clamps are used to secure the wood bar.

Thanks, Dan. I incorrectly assumed that the upper hold-down was metal, and not wood. You've done a great job, as always!

[Oldrusty26]

Good morning , another question , when bolting the fenders to the running boards , do the ends bolt directly to the boards or is there supposed to be blocks between them , this is my first pre 26/27 car so….
Thanks in advance .

[Mike Silbert]

Travis,

Blocks between the fenders and running boards on "black" T's (1920-1925 range) is a mildly debated point due to conflicting data.
The general consensus is if the car says it needs blocks or spacers then use them, if the car says they are not needed then don't install them.
This is still the era when many people were making the bodies and fenders and then we add replacement metal to the mix and get a mixed up mess.
My advise, do what you need to to make it look good and "right"

See
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/1 ... 1303397926
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/3 ... 1364837847
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/2 ... 1170435525

Mike

[Scott_Conger]

In 1925, the period fenders would have had raised embossments around the 2 holes that attach to the running board. It was intended to have a washer placed between the bottom of the running board and the top of that embossment. I honestly do not recall if those embossments were to eliminate the washer, or be in addition to the washer but for my assembly, placing a washer there was surprisingly just the ticket for final successful attachment of things. You wouldn't think such a small additional thickness would make much difference but it did for my project. As far as a block of wood being there, by '25 with the inclusion of the raised bosses around the fender holes, those blocks had been designed out of the assembly.

With respect to the wood between the running board braces and the underside of the running board, I rely less on the "correct" thickness of wood, and rely on the angle/height of the running board brace-to-running board to determine what belongs there. I find that no matter how precise you are in bending/prepping those braces, once it comes to getting fender/running board/dust shield all lined up, THEN you can do the final fit of the running board blocks (sometimes they require a slight taper or different thickness' to let the running board fit to all elements AND sit parallel to the ground.

I personally despise this type of work and the last time I did it, I was fitting new dust shields to a car - the reproductions were gorgeous and did not appear to vary in the slightest from the rotted originals. Despite this, it took me 2+ looooong days of frustration and no small amount of moving holes and tweaking the shields to make them fit the front fender correctly as well as getting fenders to align squarely without putting anything under strain.

I've reached a point in my life where I will never do it again - I do not love the hobby that much.