rear end
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Topic author - Posts: 103
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2023 1:49 pm
- First Name: Vincent
- Last Name: Ryan
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1913 TOURING CONVERSION
- Location: El Cajon
- Board Member Since: 2023
rear end
Before I jump into this Im seeking some input. A differential rebuild and installation of an auxiliary gear box is coming up soon. After I figure out how Im gonna support the cars chassis I thought I could leave the rear wheels on and roll the entire assembly out, driveshaft/differential/axles/wheels.
once in the shop I can disassemble, inspect and rebuild.
once in the shop I can disassemble, inspect and rebuild.
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- Posts: 5370
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: rear end
It would be easier with the wheels off, would not have to jack the car up as high. Also unless you are going to do the spring at the same time, it can stay on the car.
If it has the pre 1915 rearend, don't jack in the center. Build a cradle that supports at the ends to lift.
If it has the pre 1915 rearend, don't jack in the center. Build a cradle that supports at the ends to lift.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup

1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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- Posts: 4725
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
- First Name: john
- Last Name: karvaly
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
- Board Member Since: 2020
Re: rear end
Good advice.Mark Gregush wrote: ↑Tue Jul 23, 2024 5:45 pmIt would be easier with the wheels off, would not have to jack the car up as high. Also unless you are going to do the spring at the same time, it can stay on the car.
If it has the pre 1915 rearend, don't jack in the center. Build a cradle that supports at the ends to lift.
Use a cradle for all years rear ends.
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- Posts: 578
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:12 am
- First Name: Joseph
- Last Name: M
- Location: MI
Re: rear end
The link below is for a thread on what I have and it also has some good posts from others showing what they have done as well.
https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic. ... xle#p56935
https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic. ... xle#p56935
"Remember son, there are two ways to do this: The right way, and your way” Thanks Dad, I love you too.
LOOKING FOR A LUFKIN No. 9A Height Gage Attachment.
LOOKING FOR A LUFKIN No. 9A Height Gage Attachment.
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- Posts: 1957
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:23 pm
- First Name: Jeff
- Last Name: Humble
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Canadian coupe, 1924 TT C-cab, 1924 runabout
- Location: Charlevoix, Mi
- Board Member Since: 2006
Re: rear end
I am doing the same thing to mine right now.
1) lift the rear of the car up by the rear axle.
2) Remove the rear wheels.
3) Support the frame with 2- 2x4's glued and nailed together supported on tall jack stands.
4) Lower the rear axle as needed to take the load off the spring shackles and remove the spring at the rear end and leave the spring attached to the frame.
5) Unbolt the ball joint, disconnect the brake rods at the hand brake shaft. Be sure to support the front of the driveshaft so it will not fall when you pull the axle assy out. Use furniture dollies under each rear brake plate and the ball joint to roll it out from under the car.
All done as a one man job. I still need a helper putting it back in the car, one at the ball joint/universal joint and one at the rear axle. MTFCA has a good 3 CD set on the rear axle that I recommend, and the MTFCA rear axle book is a must.
1) lift the rear of the car up by the rear axle.
2) Remove the rear wheels.
3) Support the frame with 2- 2x4's glued and nailed together supported on tall jack stands.
4) Lower the rear axle as needed to take the load off the spring shackles and remove the spring at the rear end and leave the spring attached to the frame.
5) Unbolt the ball joint, disconnect the brake rods at the hand brake shaft. Be sure to support the front of the driveshaft so it will not fall when you pull the axle assy out. Use furniture dollies under each rear brake plate and the ball joint to roll it out from under the car.
All done as a one man job. I still need a helper putting it back in the car, one at the ball joint/universal joint and one at the rear axle. MTFCA has a good 3 CD set on the rear axle that I recommend, and the MTFCA rear axle book is a must.
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- Posts: 361
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 9:09 am
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Zibell
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Tudor
- Location: Huntsville, AL
Re: rear end
I made my own jack stands. Just need some steel pipe, flat stock and bracing stock. I set these in front of the radius rods when I remove a rear end.
Picture is of them at the front.
Picture is of them at the front.
1926 Tudor
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- Posts: 7237
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Jelf
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
- Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
- Board Member Since: 2007
- Contact:
Re: rear end
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
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Topic author - Posts: 103
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2023 1:49 pm
- First Name: Vincent
- Last Name: Ryan
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1913 TOURING CONVERSION
- Location: El Cajon
- Board Member Since: 2023
Re: rear end
Thanks for all the responses, great video btw.