What have you done on an old non-Model T vehicle.

Burger in Spokane · Post by **Burger in Spokane** » Wed Sep 04, 2019 11:08 am

Everyone has their "stim". And stim costs money, .... always. Some people stim on
fishing. Others on boats. Some like to just go out drinking. Others like to golf (horrors !)

Women seem to often have a stim about "shopping", or saving money. I knew a guy years
ago that was worth MILLIONS, and his stim was eating moldy cheese sandwiches and tracking
all his money in a little spiral notebook that he kept in his shirt pocket.

For the old car stim, few vehicle types deliver as much bang for the buck as a Model T ....
IF (key word here) .... one is the kind of person that likes OLD and SLOW and appreciates
subtle pleasures, like putting smiles on the faces of children and old people.

46woodduck · Post by **46woodduck** » Tue Sep 10, 2019 2:12 am

"Likes old and slow"? Hell. I'm living it.

John Warren · Post by **John Warren** » Sun Sep 15, 2019 10:44 am

Love the bike!!!

Post by **PDGx** » Fri Oct 11, 2019 6:47 pm

Doing some cleanup this week.

Hopefully moving into the cleaner assembly stage.

Before :

After:

Now that’s a piece of art :

Post by **Duey_C** » Fri Oct 11, 2019 8:35 pm

Art? It sure is! That drive is gorgeous Paul and those sprockets look great! What color? No wait, show us when painted.

Burger in Spokane · Post by **Burger in Spokane** » Sat Oct 12, 2019 1:25 am

What a $#@! BEAST !!!

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Sat Oct 12, 2019 10:54 am

Those photos are fantastic!
Thanks
Rich

Post by **PDGx** » Sat Oct 12, 2019 12:02 pm

Duey_C wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 11, 2019 8:35 pm
Art? It sure is! That drive is gorgeous Paul and those sprockets look great! What color? No wait, show us when painted.

I’d tell you - but then I’d have to ...... (never mind)

- But Henry would be proud.

Post by **Dallas Landers** » Sat Oct 12, 2019 8:34 pm

Looks like you have been very busy! Great job. I cant wait for more. I agree with the art comment.

Post by **Ruxstel24** » Sat Oct 12, 2019 9:21 pm

PDGx wrote: ↑
Sat Oct 12, 2019 12:02 pm

Duey_C wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 11, 2019 8:35 pm
Art? It sure is! That drive is gorgeous Paul and those sprockets look great! What color? No wait, show us when painted.
I’d tell you - but then I’d have to ...... (never mind)

- But Henry would be proud.

Hmmm...wonder what color it could be ?

That is a behemoth, very cool !!

Post by **Duey_C** » Sun Oct 13, 2019 1:36 am

"But Henry would be proud."
If kinda original for a Mack? OK.
If not? Noooooooooooooo!

Oh oh, now you have to... No, please no, I have these Twin City's and the T's to finish yet...

Gloss, satin or flat?

Post by **PDGx** » Sun Oct 13, 2019 11:30 am

It will be modeled after our other Wrecker with similar accents, but I’ll have to change the color from ‘Coal Black’

: Ford Color chart

- to gloss ‘Black’ in accordance with the model year !

Engine cylinders, squirrel cage, wheel hubs, sprockets (and possibly chains ?), as well as winches/cable pulleys (safety) will be accented as our TT.

All aluminum (block, pan, and transmission) and brass/copper will remain exposed (possibly clear coated to prevent oxidation).

A lot of work yet before that happens.

Wayne Sheldon · Post by **Wayne Sheldon** » Mon Oct 14, 2019 4:31 am

Looking so nice! Can such a behemoth be so nice? Yeah, but they sure ain't fast!
I do look forward to seeing this done.

Post by **tdump** » Tue Nov 05, 2019 10:35 pm

Wow,you folks are getting to play with your toys.All my daily stuff took up some time lately.My 04 Dodge pickup with the hemi,transmission went BANG and I coasted to a stop a couple weeks ago. Towed it to the shop about 20 miles away and still waiting.106,000 miles on a very clean truck.I was utterly shocked that a transmission would go out with that few miles.

I had been wanting to do some repairs on my 91 F150 and had the new catalytic convertor on the work bench when the dodge died.So I put the f150 in the shop here at home and I got started fixing a grocery list of issues.Mainly the convetor.I bought a kit on ebay that replaced the entire setup ,went from 2 to just 1.Then found the muffler and tailpipe rusted,so that was replaced.
I had a BAD oil leak at the front of the engine,a 300 inline 6. I thought it was the oil pan gasket.I tore into it to lift the engine and replace it like the youtube video showed.Wrong,they didn't bother to say they were working on 4x4's with plenty of clearance!
So I had to struggle and fish the new gasket around the oilpump and so forth.Replaced abad motor mount when I put it back together.I was so happy,for a few minutes.I went to put oil in,and realized,there was a puddle under the truck STILL>You pour oil in the top and part of it comes out the bottom. Turns out it was a gasket on the side of the engine block,in behind a bunch of stuff.A real pain! BUT I got it! No leaks now,and that new convertor lets the truck run and pull good again and it brought back the mileage.So I was right that the convertors were clogged.It also got new front brakes,wheel bearings,power window switches , new wiper motor,and a good polishing and such.Alot of work but it is good for years to come now.

Post by **Tom Hicks** » Thu Nov 07, 2019 1:01 am

Reset points...

Post by **tdump** » Thu Nov 07, 2019 10:00 am

My grandfather Cole drove chain drive Macks alot many moons ago.He was driving 1 towing a trailer when the Cresant Limited train hit him in 1940. When I first wanted to restore a truck,I wanted a chain drive Mack.Well,because of Granpal and his name being Mack and he drove them.And my name woulda been on it to.

But once I got to digging around money wise,I could not afford them.So I went with the idea of a T because my granpal Blackwelder always told me storys of his T's and such.
Worked out ok.But I still love to see a old chain drive truck being fixed.

Post by **Walter Higgins** » Sat Nov 16, 2019 5:36 pm

cudaman wrote: ↑
Sat Aug 31, 2019 12:44 pm
A couple of months ago, I finally got fed up with the exhaust manifold leaks on my 1971 Plymouth GTX. I thought that the gaskets were blown, but once I got the manifolds off it turned out that the driver side manifold was cracked into two pieces and the passenger side manifold had a circular spot with cracks radiating from it.

I purchased two good used manifolds and swapped them in, the exhaust is nice and quiet now.

Now that's pretty interesting to me because just last month I had to replace the manifolds on the 350 in my '71 GMC. People on the Chevy truck forum and elsewhere told me they had never seen this before and that I must have something wrong ranging from timing to blocked exhaust, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with how this truck has run and performed for the ten years I have owned it and everything checked out afterward.

I started out replacing a muffler and knew that I had some leaks up front, what I thought were bad donut gaskets. While the pipe was disconnected I decided to move to the front and do the gaskets and that's when the pipe wiggled in my hand and I knew something bigger was wrong. The left side manifold had a heat shield over it, so I never could see this happening. The right side was starting to do the same but it wasn't obvious yet. Seems to be right there where all the heat concentrates where it dumps out the middle. Maybe it's a junk 1970's iron thing.

Post by **CudaMan** » Sat Nov 16, 2019 6:27 pm

Looks very similar to what happened on my GTX, I wonder if it's just age and heat cycles catching up with the cast iron?

Post by **Walter Higgins** » Sat Nov 16, 2019 6:50 pm

cudaman wrote: ↑
Sat Nov 16, 2019 6:27 pm
Looks very similar to what happened on my GTX, I wonder if it's just age and heat cycles catching up with the cast iron?

It almost makes me think it's something to do with the era because I've worked on a lot of older stuff that has seen a lot more abuse and miles than my truck and I've never seen a cast iron manifold do that before. My truck only has 105,000 miles on it.

Post by **Michael Paul** » Sun Nov 17, 2019 10:55 am

Hi Rich, thanks for starting this great post. We all love the model T s but it seems anything from that era draws our attention. I often wonder if we're reincarnated from that time.

I've been sorting through things in my containers and have found some early motorcycle parts, one is a carburetor with a 1914 Harley tag, and a rear hub and sprocket, no tag but in great condition. I'll post some pictures so they might be identified. I don't need them, but maybe someone else on this forum might have use for there project.

You do amazing work, it's great to share our experience. There is a small High school in the town of Wheatland in California. They have a great program in the metal shop class, and have restored several antique tractors. I'm hoping to get in touch with the teacher and donate a model T chassis for them to restore. There are still plenty of our teens that love working on anything mechanical.

Have a great day Mike

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Sun Nov 17, 2019 11:24 am

That's a great idea Michael. There are plenty of youngsters to keep this great hobby going if only they can see how enjoyable it is. It has always amazed me how much interest and participation concerning other early vehicles etc there is here. Far more expertise appears on this forum than any other I know of. The Off Topic section has been a success in many ways.
Thanks
Rich

Burger in Spokane · Post by **Burger in Spokane** » Sun Nov 17, 2019 10:26 pm

The level of historical dalliance borne out of the Kalamity Dick thread is
proof enough of the success of the off-topic section.

Post by **Duey_C** » Tue Nov 19, 2019 12:04 am

And a dork like me hasn't even shown my toys yet Burger.
Oop, outside the scope of Rich's thread, Carry on.

Post by **PDGx** » Sat Jan 04, 2020 6:40 pm

Finally got the new shoes on. First time on its own rubber in over 12 years. Had to get them on to be able to move it easier during the assembly.

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Sat Jan 04, 2020 6:54 pm

Good work. Those tires will last forever. Not cheap tho are they?
Looking great!

Post by **PDGx** » Sat Jan 04, 2020 7:10 pm

They came with a lifetime warranty

1k each.

Lgitts · Post by **Lgitts** » Sat Jan 04, 2020 7:19 pm

I've been helping a friend restore his 1958 Porsche 356 Speedster. After having the metal work (rust repair) done and bodywork, I started in on it a couple months ago, working in my spare time and weekends, to get it painted, so he can finally start assembly. Here's 2photos taken this evening, ready for it to go home. When he bought it, it was painted (horribly) black. Now back to the correct orginal "Elfenbein" white.

* well, I can't seem to rotate the photos right side up. Darn....*

: porsche 1

david_dewey · Post by **david_dewey** » Sun Jan 05, 2020 9:39 pm

Wow, looking good. I have a friend who had a similar Porsche, but his had the very rare bench seat in it. He's had it some two to three decades and finally was almost finished with the restoration. BTW, that bench seat is so rare, the factory museum offered him $20K just for the seat. In the Camp Fire he lost his shop, including the nearly finished car. End of story there, except one should have insurance (he didn't).

Post by **Duey_C** » Thu Jan 09, 2020 12:37 am

Mack, you didn't know all older Dodge pickups toss their transmissions at some point?

They do.
Duey_C says to Mr David_Dewey, it is too bad about the loss of your friend's Porsche. Truly.
None of my treasures are insured. Mistake! Right it Du.
David, ya think they'll ever get it that we ain't the same person? Nah.

Paul, that looks absolutely wonderful! Those tires make it look like he'll do 40! Thank you.
I still work away at study and moving forward with my non-vehicle project/projects. Deep in the rabbit hole, I've even noted hose clamp fixes and fails on 90 year old foolishness. Much to do!
Great thread Rich! Excuse this late night OT.
One more little 130 pound piece of a puzzle.

Post by **PDGx** » Thu Jan 16, 2020 10:07 pm

Had to do a bit of mock up this week.

Since everything is based on the cab assembly, I had to temporarily remount the cab and cowl

on the chassis in order to do a fit up of the new fenders and running board fabrications.

Still have a bit of work to do on the fenders.

But it’s lookin good over all.

Post by **Dallas Landers** » Fri Jan 17, 2020 6:31 am

Thats looking great. You have been busy.

Kaiser · Post by **Kaiser** » Fri Jan 17, 2020 9:10 am

That old AC Bulldog is coming along nicely ! love it !

Post by **Duey_C** » Thu Jan 23, 2020 7:59 pm

The Mack is looking really nice Paul! How many cubes is the engine?

Post by **PDGx** » Fri Jan 24, 2020 6:54 pm

471, but it’s only a 4 cylinder. (5x6)

Post by **Duey_C** » Fri Jan 24, 2020 11:47 pm

Thank you!

You have me as the 4 cylinder engine behind my radiator above is at 413 cubes at 4-11/16x6 right now.
4-3/4 is my limit at 425 cubes.
Big Mack engine! No wonder you ponder cranking. Me too. I don't happen to have enough belt pulley parts and a belt to spin...
I'd bet you'll rev your Mack engine a bit higher than my 1075 max...
I'm pushing just about 50 horse perhaps. Your Mack, a bit better!
For the Mopar fans? Burger?
I have two engines in 1928 (OT) 17-28 tractors 26038 and 26068 that are 340 cubic inch, Twin Cam, 16 valve @ 1000 rpm.
Company literature say the engines will make 40 hp. Grunt! A Twin Cam monster will come here yet at 641 cu. in.
5x6 is a big engine. Thanks Paul!
Keep posting pics if you would. Love your beautiful truck!

Post by **PDGx** » Tue Feb 04, 2020 8:23 pm

The FORD connection ———

There had to be a tie-in for my Mack somewhere to this forum ..........

As you know you run into just about everything during a full restoration, and I’ve been chasing parts, suppliers, component restorers.

The Mack Museum is a great source as they have records on every truck Mack has ever built, including build sheets, and usually prints of every component installed at the factory - (but no parts).

However, as you know, everything on these 100 year old vehicles isn’t stock.

While trying to work in advance of need, I’ve been chasing info on the generator. Mack has twice said they have no record of any electronics on my truck, but it surely has been designed in to the engine.

: Cast brass Generator mount

: Ford R3 Generator and mount

While trying to find information on the generator itself, I find this (!) -

: Ford Script

I haven’t been able to find anything online searching for info on it. I am assuming it’s 6v.

So now the question to you - who knows anything about a Ford ‘R3’ generator ?

Any help would be appreciated.

Post by **Mark Gregush** » Thu Feb 06, 2020 12:33 pm

The R3 looks to be late Model A or B with the drive end modified to use with the drive it has now. One wire from field goes to ground, the other goes to cutout for out put. The Model A/B had two approx 1/4 bolts to hold the bracket on and two 10-32 to hold the cutout on like the T on the other side.

Post by **PDGx** » Thu Feb 06, 2020 9:53 pm

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑
Thu Feb 06, 2020 12:33 pm
The R3 looks to be late Model A or B with the drive end modified to use with the drive it has now. One wire from field goes to ground, the other goes to cutout for out put. The Model A/B had two approx 1/4 bolts to hold the bracket on and two 10-32 to hold the cutout on like the T on the other side.

Mark - Thanks for that.

I’m chasing the possibility that it might be a 38/39 Ford Truck generator, minus the pulley and front bracket.

Post by **Mark Gregush** » Fri Feb 07, 2020 12:46 am

Could be earlier, but car too;
https://www.ebay.com/i/183520623249?chn ... D0QAvD_BwE

Post by **Duey_C** » Sat Feb 08, 2020 12:56 am

Correlations:
Very interesting!
Ignore this... On my front, there's been a lighting generator on this engine in the past also! Yet the late T genny mount holes do not line up to the mounting/adapter plate and fear I may have the uber-rare Robert Bosch lighting adapter yet no unobtanium generator to...
Interesting Mack truck details! Thank you!

Post by **PDGx** » Thu Mar 26, 2020 1:48 pm

Been a good day -

It’s alive !

First start in 50+ years.

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Thu Mar 26, 2020 3:58 pm

FANTASTIC!
Thanks for sharing that.
Rich

Post by **Dallas Landers** » Thu Mar 26, 2020 5:24 pm

Woo Hoo ! Wonderful. You back is to the camera, we cant see that smile.

Kaiser · Post by **Kaiser** » Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:02 am

Fantastic, thats a milestone, congrats !

John Warren · Post by **John Warren** » Sat Apr 04, 2020 11:25 am

I love you guys sharing your projects , keep updating please. Rich, I went to an auction here in town and was thinking of you and your bike.

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Sat Apr 04, 2020 11:46 am

That is a great looking '20. I wish mine were that far along. It also reminds me of our show last Summer. That is what I should be doing today.
Thanks for sharing those.
Rich

Post by **PDGx** » Mon Apr 13, 2020 1:11 pm

May not be Poetry, but it’s (finally) in Motion.

Now to take it all back apart, and prep for paint.

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Mon Apr 13, 2020 1:28 pm

Oh Yes! It is Poetry too!
That is Great!
Rich

Post by **Ruxstel24** » Tue Apr 14, 2020 10:46 pm

Very nice Paul !! Can’t wait to see it painted.

Post by **PDGx** » Wed Apr 15, 2020 11:21 am

Thanks.. Me too.

I don’t believe I will ever complain about hand cranking a T, ever - again.

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Wed Apr 15, 2020 11:51 am

Does that Beast have a compression release. My White does but it still takes much more than a T. My shoulder is starting to complain after 40 years. Ts are a breeze.
Keep us posted.
Rich

Post by **PDGx** » Wed Apr 15, 2020 4:18 pm

No. Nor does it have primers, so it takes 3-4 revs to charge the cylinders to get it to kick. Usually takes 2-3 attempts, by then you’re wasted. Powering thru the compression strokes is a ?itch.
But when it starts, it runs great.

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Wed Apr 15, 2020 5:09 pm

I have to spin mine 5 turns with the choke on and then 5 more turns and it takes off. My magnets may be weak. I do have a starter hole and teeth on the flywheel. A starter may be in order now.
I have to be close to TDC or it won't fire. I know what you mean powering thru.
Are we tough guys or just not too bright?

Post by **PDGx** » Wed Apr 15, 2020 6:32 pm

Well after working on this for so long, you really begin to question your sanity of starting on it. (Bought it 13 years ago Monday

)

And now it runs !

Post by **Duey_C** » Sat Apr 18, 2020 6:39 pm

That big 471 sure runs nice! Thanks Paul!
Like that ZF-4 mag too. Playing with U-4's and a ZR-4 out in the shop.

babychadwick · Post by **babychadwick** » Thu Apr 23, 2020 2:20 pm

Im working on tracing some fuel delivery problems on the starboard engine. The picture was taken about 5 miles off shore. Road blocks are established and the entire county is closed to non-residents. Its nice without the tourists.

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Sun Jul 05, 2020 1:27 pm

Just to keep the balance right in the universe I work on this Flathead a week or so every 4 or 5 years. I was given this '36 engine for my '35 Panel delivery a dozen or so years ago. The previous owner suggested I remove the heads to see if things were good inside. They were but the fiber gaskets needed to be scraped off before putting on new copper ones. Scraping around the 21 studs (42 altogether) kept me busy for 2 days. Maybe I'll get it in the chassis and running this Summer. (or nor)
Rich

Post by **Mark Gregush** » Wed Jul 08, 2020 11:01 am

I am kinda sidelining the Model T's for a while and taking on the task of getting this 1920 Dodge road worthy. Took me a better part of a day to work the multi plate clutch free. Got it running and have driven it a bit.

Post by **PDGx** » Wed Jul 08, 2020 8:19 pm

Better jump on that other head right away so you don’t forget how you did it !

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Fri Jul 10, 2020 2:04 pm

There is something about working on a different project for a change. Like Mark's Dodge, the flathead Ford's quirks present some new challenges. I can return to the T's after a rest and a broader appreciation of them. A local guy bought a '23 Dodge after 50 years of Model 'A's. He went completely through it and decieded it was too slow and sold it. But the process was very good for him as a change and he's back to the Model A work now.

In the same vain I think it is healthy for the Model T Forum to have a "Time Out" section like this. I can't get excited about every subject but many do catch my imagination and enhance the pastime.
I've often questioned why this Forum is so successful. Certainly the moderators from Bruce to Chris and Jeff and their good choices have been one of the keys. The attitudes and energy participants put into this is extraordinary too. But beyond that I think the expertise of those who know Model T's and have other related interests adds much to the successfulness here
Somehow cleaning the transmission parts was terribly fulfilling. That was the next step and I was fortunate to find usable parts from the 2 transmissions I have. These sat out in the weather all these years and may in fact get tossed out when this car changes hands. Most of the interest I have had in this vehicle is from Hot Rodders who would put a more modern running gear in it. Ironically, those are the folks that I got the parts from.
For now it's just rewarding to be making some progress and enjoying the nice weather.
Rich

Post by **Walter Higgins** » Fri Jul 10, 2020 2:29 pm

You probably already know this but Mac Van Pelt is the best resource on these transmissions in terms of parts, online reference, and even help on the phone. His self-published rebuild manual is excellent and saves a lot of missteps. Don't get your fingers pinched!:

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flat ... _trans.htm

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Fri Jul 10, 2020 9:14 pm

Thanks Walter. I did look there. I have the "Green Book" and a Motors Manual that kept me from some of the trouble. The syncro and the second gear locking plunger would have been a disaster without them. Like the T you have to know some secrets.

Post by **Duey_C** » Fri Jul 10, 2020 11:06 pm

Good news on the Dodge Mark! I like it!
Rich, thanks for posting about the V-8 Fords.
When I was young I thought they were dumb...until I was at a showgrounds and watched an old fire truck pumping water for tractors or engines or something. DING! That's cool and smooth!
The '45 school bus come dump truck way back sure ran nice when I had it out.
I whole-heartedly agree this OT forum being a plus!
Some people only T and that's great, yet plenty of us are multi-faceted in our interests. Or else have ADD...
I think I'm a little Autistic maself.
I have looked at things from this T bunch I never would have dreamed...
Thank you.

I just text my Twin City tractor dealer/friend that I have more enjoyment ahead of me than I can shake a stick at.
I need to get the 18 PsychOdelic Runabout home. What a year!
Busy under-grounders doing our thing at home!

Post by **Mark Gregush** » Sat Jul 11, 2020 8:46 pm

After I got the information on where the engine number was (the guy that posted the info is from Australia and was posted between 11 and 12 our time) on one of the 3 spare engines I got with the car (along with a bunch of other parts) I was out in the ship at midnight looking for it. Found out it's Dec 1916 engine. Normally it's over the water inlet (wonder where they got that from?

), but the early engines was in a different location. Dodge used 3 point suspension for the engines, the front point being a ball shape that slides into the snout of the timing cover and pan and rides in a carrier on the front cross member.

The rear somewhat like the Model A. The engine less the bell housing and transmission are a big chunk of iron.

Post by **PDGx** » Sun Jul 26, 2020 1:32 pm

Now that’s nice.

Post by **Dallas Landers** » Sun Jul 26, 2020 1:48 pm

How cool is that! Its come a long way! Great job on bringing back Mack!

Post by **Duey_C** » Sun Jul 26, 2020 6:14 pm

Woohoo! Been waiting for an update Paul.

Michael Peternell · Post by **Michael Peternell** » Sun Jul 26, 2020 8:05 pm

As found in the wild! 2016
Not really found but allowed to purchase.

A pair of 1920 Cleveland six model forties. Both engines were rotted through the oil pans in the dirt.

two more parts engines from 2 other states and four years and
I have a heartbeat! Overhead valve in 1920 wasn't that common.

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Sun Jul 26, 2020 9:11 pm

How lucky are you? That is a great car. Have fun with it.
I hope to hear some more about it as time goes by.
Rich

Kevin Pharis · Post by **Kevin Pharis** » Sun Jul 26, 2020 9:56 pm

Was the wire wheel in the foreground part of your haul? Are the other 3 hubs and wheel centers on the chassis? Acquiring a full set of hubs and wheel centers is 90% of the effort when it comes to converting a car to wire wheels. The rims are almost always toast, and don’t plan on using the spokes for anything more than patterns. If you have the hubs and centers, a set of wheels can be completed with ease

Michael Peternell · Post by **Michael Peternell** » Sun Jul 26, 2020 10:39 pm

Kevin Pharis wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 26, 2020 9:56 pm
Was the wire wheel in the foreground part of your haul? Are the other 3 hubs and wheel centers on the chassis? Acquiring a full set of hubs and wheel centers is 90% of the effort when it comes to converting a car to wire wheels. The rims are almost always toast, and don’t plan on using the spokes for anything more than patterns. If you have the hubs and centers, a set of wheels can be completed with ease

Funny! When I loaded this picture l actually thought of you because of the wheel in it! I'm pretty sure sure they survived. The owner is no
Stranger to the site. He may chime in.

Kevin Pharis · Post by **Kevin Pharis** » Sun Jul 26, 2020 11:35 pm

Looks like a Houk #5 wheel center and hub... the wheel center is not all that uncommon and of no particular value by itself, and an unidentified application hub has about equal value.

But if you have a car that you desired to convert to wire wheels... it is near unheard of to find a complete set of wheels and hubs that would directly mount to your specific application. So if that is a Cleveland chassis... you should keep an eye on it

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Thu Jul 30, 2020 7:03 pm

My gear shift lever spring for the '35 Ford had scummed to age and moisture. I'm sure I could buy a replacement or some spring that would work. Not wanting to leave the shop I thought I would see what I could devise. A few years ago I unwound a small coil spring with some pliers. It surprised me how easy it straightened out. I ended up making some odd shaped door springs for my Maxwell by doing that. The old spring was 1" O.D. I had an extension spring that was just a bit smaller wire diameter that the rust one. I thought it would be easy to enlarge it's 9/16" O.D. to 1" buy pressing it down a mandrel. It was not having any of that. After a couple of hours of trying to twist and turn in a dozen different ways I decided it wasn't going to happen. But grabbing one end with the spring around a shaft in the vise I was able to pull it out of it's coil into a not straight but a 4" circle. Then I rewound it around a 3/4" shaft. I wrapped it tight and it rebounded to about 1". The coils were not evenly spaced but I could fiddle around bending them so they came close to being equal. I would guess the spring looses some of it's properties by stressing it that way but it has ample tension to do what it needs to do. I was pleased I had kept at it.

Most of the work on the '35 trans and my "soaked" T trans has been mundane cleaning which has not been worth mentioning here. This however was something I thought was more interesting and perhaps useful to those who haven't tried it. Anything over 5/64ths wire diameter might be quite a challenge.
Also shown is my attempt to restore a badly bend up gear shift lever to somewhere close to original.
Rich

perry kete · Post by **perry kete** » Thu Jul 30, 2020 7:24 pm

Rich,

I am wondering how you can still get your lever up ? Did you use just heat?

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Fri Jul 31, 2020 8:49 am

Ya, I'm getting old but I can still do a few things.

I straightened the upper 3/4 in a press but had to heat the lower part. It had been bent off to the left so I had to straighten it out and then put the bend back in the right direction.

Kevin Pharis · Post by **Kevin Pharis** » Fri Jul 31, 2020 10:25 am

I’ve seen shift levers bent like that before on transmissions used when converting old belt driven machinery to electric motor powered. The electric motor and automotive transmission would be high mounted, and the shift lever twisted down so one could reach it

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Fri Aug 21, 2020 3:50 pm

Trying to get into corners to clean can be difficult. Today I wired some Scotch-brite strips to some sharpened dowels. They allowed me to get where my fingers aren't sharp enough. I'll have to try it on brass next time.

The old 'T' piston gets the part up a bit and the rust/carbon is a good surface to work on.

Perhaps others will find these useful.

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Mon Sep 07, 2020 10:53 am

I wanted to clean up a spare generator for the '35. It was reluctant to come apart. After soaking it with penetrating oil and then soaking it in water it was still stuck. I thought maybe a gentle nudge in the press might push the armature through the case. I used some steel and a socket for spacers and put some pressure on. With no results I finally put all 12 tons to it. Still no movement. I added a little pressure each day and finally used a longer jack handle. I expected a BANG! if it ever let loose, but didn't expect the armature shaft to penetrate the 1/8" steel into the socket.

At this point the armature was showing some movement and did come out of it's shell. My next task is to remove the punctured plate from the shaft. The parts may clean up and work. Or not.
I thought some of you might enjoy this as it isn't that common at my shop.
Rich

Post by **Mark Gregush** » Mon Sep 07, 2020 5:33 pm

That was really stuck!

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Sat Apr 03, 2021 3:06 pm

It really was stuck Mark. That was last September.
Fast forward to April. The nice weather plus a guy wanting me to sell him the Panel got me out and working on the brakes. I have nearly all the parts for the mechanical brakes. Yes I know they are horrible.
I was missing one front operating pin (rod). These have one cupped end. I tried to mush the end of a steel rod to make the cup with poor results. It would mush to one side as it was difficult to get the heat low in the drilled plates.

My second plan was to silver solder some nuts to a threaded rod end. By adding flux to the threads as I screwed the nut on and putting a ring of silver solder around the rod I could hang the rod and heat the bottom end. You can see the silver solder came out that end so it flowed down the threads.

Then I simply machined the cup to size. This would be a good technique for making bolts. Heavy or thick nuts would work for bolts that aren't available.

Michael Peternell · Post by **Michael Peternell** » Sat Apr 03, 2021 10:41 pm

My Cleveland got it's original carb reinstalled. Some sketchy guy in Montana who will go unnamed rebuilt it.

Herb Iffrig · Post by **Herb Iffrig** » Sat Apr 03, 2021 11:46 pm

Sketchy guy in Montana? I thought Richard Eagle lived in Idaho.
Any how I like both of them guys.

Post by **Rich Eagle** » Tue Apr 06, 2021 5:51 pm

The guy in Montana knows a heck of a lot more about carburetors than I do.
I found these pictures today. The Buick didn't have it's turtle deck when I got it. Therefore there was no hardware for it. A fellow in El Cajon was kind enough to take one of his hinges off and put it on a copy machine. Some of you may remember Jack Garrison. I was able to trace them out on sheet and make the three I needed for mine. The latch I made from looking at pictures. It is very close proportionately but I think a little large or out of scale.

I think the hinges are a little fancy for a car but were probably standard hardware at the time. I have found similar versions of both the hinge and latch but not exact or the same size.
Rich

Post by **PDGx** » Sat Jul 17, 2021 4:35 pm

How do you keep the carb clean after polishing it ?

Post by **Dallas Landers** » Sat Jul 17, 2021 7:57 pm

What a workhorse ! Very nice.

Post by **Lessumner** » Sat Oct 16, 2021 4:38 pm

My non Ford vehicle project was a bicycle. A friend gave me a 1950's J C Higgins sears bike to play with. I rebuilt it into a fun look alike toy I have always wanted but out of my league. Les

Post by **TXGOAT2** » Sat Oct 16, 2021 7:17 pm

Re: Exhaust manifolds burning out with that "alligator hide" look: I I used to see some of that on fairly clean vehicles. I assumed it was caused by lean burn emissions settings and AIR injection reactors. I think that may be a factor, but I notice some people had similar failures with earlier vehicles which did not have the emissions equipment, but had restricted exhaust problems that led to burned out manifolds. I recall that around that era, late 60s/early '70s, some Chevrolet vehicles, and probably other GM, had a double layered exhaust header pipe from the manifold(s) to the muffler or Y junction. In some cases, the inner pipe layer would erode or corrode and somehow get wadded up inside the outer layer of the pipe causing severe restriction in a pipe that looked perfectly good on the outside. That could explain some of the burned out manifold issues.

Dan Haynes · Post by **Dan Haynes** » Sun Oct 17, 2021 3:55 pm

Dividing time between the Mountain Wagon and the Stanley sedan, but getting the engine back in the Mountain Wagon is getting to be a real priority

Post by **PDGx** » Tue Nov 02, 2021 8:31 am

Dan - how about a little education on that engine ? Is that first pic 2 - 2 cylinder engines, with external cranks ?

Post by **TXGOAT2** » Tue Nov 02, 2021 11:16 am

Stanley steam enmgines....

Post by **PDGx** » Wed Nov 03, 2021 7:58 pm

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Tue Nov 02, 2021 11:16 am
Stanley steam enmgines....

Got that. Why 2 ?

Wayne Sheldon · Post by **Wayne Sheldon** » Thu Nov 04, 2021 3:20 am

He has two Stanley steam cars? He does!

Dan Haynes · Post by **Dan Haynes** » Fri Nov 05, 2021 3:19 pm

Hi, Paul -
The photo with the little rusty engine was staged by a friend; he placed his little 10 hp Stanley engine on the big 30 hp engine - we named them "Baby Bear" and "Papa Bear". The 30 hp engine was briefly passing through his garage in Pennsylvania on its way to the west coast and he wanted to take the opportunity to compare the two size extremes. The 20 hp size is, not surprisingly, half way between those two sizes. The big engine really is a moose. In my younger days I could lift a 20 hp engine, there's no way I can lift this 30.

Post by **PDGx** » Fri Nov 05, 2021 4:39 pm

Thanks Dan. Was wondering if your Wagon used some sort of an APU for something.

When you get it running, would be interested in seeing a video of the engine starting and running.

Good luck.

Dan Haynes · Post by **Dan Haynes** » Sat Nov 06, 2021 3:16 pm

The main APU is the pump handle that sticks out of the floor between the driver and front seat passenger! Until the car is rolling there is nothing to drive the pumps, so hand pumps are provided. It looks like a gearshift lever and is often mistaken for one. The forward stroke on the pump handle pumps fuel, the backward stroke pumps water. Either of the pumps can be cut out of the circuit, so you don't pump unwanted water while pumping fuel or vice-versa.

Once steam is up and the car starts moving, the power pumps are driven by the crosshead. Every back stroke of the crosshead will pump water and fuel, every forward stroke pumps water and cylinder oil. And again, if the boiler doesn't need water, the pumps do not stop, the water they pump is diverted back to the water tanks. Same with fuel, if fuel pressure is up to 140 psi, the fuel pump can't stop, but the surplus liquid fuel is diverted back to the fuel tank.

The power pumps on a non-condensing Stanley work at engine speed, the power pumps on a condensing car are much larger and run off the rear axle (instead of the engine crosshead) and they are geared to run at 1/4 engine speed. Condensing car pumps are way too big to run off the engine and non-condensing pumps are too small to provide the needed volume to feed the boiler if they were run at slow speed off the rear axle.

The later (1915 and later) condensing car pumps are very quiet and smooth, the earlier pumps slap and clatter at speed.

Dan Haynes · Post by **Dan Haynes** » Sat Nov 06, 2021 4:17 pm

I know it's not much, but this is the sight when the car is steaming up. I don't have video I can post of it running.

Dan Haynes · Post by **Dan Haynes** » Sat Nov 06, 2021 4:21 pm

Dan Haynes · Post by **Dan Haynes** » Sat Nov 06, 2021 4:23 pm

playing with the pilot light, turned low and turned high

Post by **PDGx** » Sun Nov 07, 2021 7:39 am

Dan - thanks for that. Way cool !

Don’t know that I fully understand your description, but understand your process building up steam.

That is a neat machine. Great that you’re keeping it operational !

Post by **CudaMan** » Mon Nov 08, 2021 8:23 pm

A friend came over yesterday, our intention was to add gas, fix any fuel line leaks, and then try to start my 1912 Flanders 20 for the first time since I bought it. We didn't get very far - there are no leaks in the fuel line, but the OEM Flanders carb floods horribly. We took the carb apart to check the float action and level. The OEM cork float and needle appeared to move freely and the needle seals well against its seat (at least when doing the sucking on the fuel inlet test). We lowered the float level as far as we could while still allowing enough float travel to let the needle lift off the seat and reassembled the carb - no improvement. When I tried pushing on the float "tickler", it didn't feel like there was any resistance - the float wasn't pushing up against the tickler plunger when there was fuel in the bowl.

My current theory is that the float is rubbing/jamming against the inside of the float bowl, preventing it from rising and pushing the needle onto its seat. I'm going to disassemble the carb again and try to simulate the presence of the float bowl with some flexible plastic so that I can see if the float is getting jammed up when the float bowl is on. If it is, I'll sand the OD of the float down for clearance, then re-seal it with hot fuel-proof dope.